Proper Weighting for drysuit and backplate and wing

[Alan De Lucio]

Hi,

I have recently purchased the Hollis Elite II backplate system with the steel back plate and the S38 Bladder. I dive with the Hollis DX-300X drysuit with 260 undergarments and a Faber HP steel 100 tank, Hollis F1 bat fins and the Hollis rock boots(yes I love Hollis gear). I'm 6'2" 285lbs and currently using only 4lbs of droppable weight and still feel heavy in the water. I have only tested my weighting in the pool and even when I drop the 4lbs I still sink. Any suggestions on better weighting or tips to become more buoyant at the surface?

 

[PfcAJ]

See how much weight you need to be neutral at 10ft with and empty tank.

 

[dumpsterDiver]

Also, diving in saltwater is going to make a noticeable difference - you will be more buoyant.

 

[cool_hardware52]

Hi,

I have recently purchased the Hollis Elite II backplate system with the steel back plate and the S38 Bladder. I dive with the Hollis DX-300X drysuit with 260 undergarments and a Faber HP steel 100 tank, Hollis F1 bat fins and the Hollis rock boots(yes I love Hollis gear). I'm 6'2" 285lbs and currently using only 4lbs of droppable weight and still feel heavy in the water. I have only tested my weighting in the pool and even when I drop the 4lbs I still sink. Any suggestions on better weighting or tips to become more buoyant at the surface?

If you are overweighted with zero weight other than your rig, plate, harness, regulator and empty (or near empty cylinder) the only two choices are to change the components of your rig or add to the buoyancy of your exposure protection.

Options for the first would be a less negative back plate, and or a less negative cylinder. Using an al 80 in place of your HP 100 is probably the cheapest and easiest way to reduce your total ballast by ~6 lbs.

Thicker undies / more layers will make your suit more buoyant.

This why I recommend people determine the buoyancy of their exposure suit prior to selecting a Back plate

Good luck,

Tobin

 

[Alan De Lucio]

Also, diving in saltwater is going to make a noticeable difference - you will be more buoyant.

I know the ocean I will be more buoyant but, when I still sink like a rock in the pool I know I will still be negatively buoyant in the ocean. I do know I need to hit the ocean with different weighting and undergarments to see what's optimal.

 

[Alan De Lucio]

If you are overweighted with zero weight other than your rig, plate, harness, regulator and empty (or near empty cylinder) the only two choices are to change the components of your rig or add to the buoyancy of your exposure protection.

Options for the first would be a less negative back plate, and or a less negative cylinder. Using an al 80 in place of your HP 100 is probably the cheapest and easiest way to reduce your total ballast by ~6 lbs.

Thicker undies / more layers will make your suit more buoyant.

This why I recommend people determine the buoyancy of their exposure suit prior to selecting a Back plate

Good luck,

Tobin

Thanks Tobin. I have an aluminum back play I can tryout too. Just seems weird being my weight not needing to much weight when my buddy who is only 150lb and we use the same weight.

 

[cool_hardware52]

I know the ocean I will be more buoyant but, when I still sink like a rock in the pool I know I will still be negatively buoyant in the ocean. I do know I need to hit the ocean with different weighting and undergarments to see what's optimal.

The rule of thumb for fresh to salt water is 1 lb of addition ballast for every 40 lbs of diver and gear.

With you at 285 and your gear being another ~65 lbs you can figure 350/40 or close to 9 lbs of additional ballast in salt water.

Being 9 lbs overweighted (assuming proper salt water ballast, but testing in fresh water) will sink you like a lead brick.

Good luck,

Tobin

 

[archer1960]

Wait until you're in salt water. At your weight, you'll need 8 - 9 lbs more weight to stay neutral than in the pool

 

[stuartv]

An HP100 has approximately 8 # of gas in it. If you get in the water with it full and find the amount of weight that just lets you be neutral, then you need to add 8 # more from there to allow you to be neutral when the tank is empty (i.e. 8# less negatively buoyant).

If you're used to diving with an AL80, and IF you were correctly weighted with an AL80, then you would be used to starting 6# negative (since an AL80 holds only 6# of gas). In that case, when you're weighted for a 100, there is a good chance you will feel "too" heavy at the start of a dive because you'll be about 2# more negative than you're used to. That extra 2# can make you feel like you are lawn darting to the bottom if you're really used to an AL80.

Personally, I never go to the pool (or quarry or wherever) with an empty tank. So, being able to figure out my weighting with a full tank has always been easier for me, logistically.

Obviously, if you work it out in fresh water, you need to make an appropriate adjustment if you're diving in salt water.

 

[Alan De Lucio]

It's just a different feeling than my aqua lung axiom i3 BCD. Which I use 14lbs of droppable weight with 4lbs of trim weight with my HP100 steel tank and drysuit. Just seems to be counter intuitive. Maybe the axiom BCD is a little more buoyant?