Nomad XT rigging/adjustments feedback appreciated

[SuPrBuGmAn]

Static cord secures it, so it doesn't drop away completely, and gives you a connection(leash) in the event you need to push them out in front of you. The bungee keeps it tight(hopefully) to your body.

 

[LakeCountyDiver]

Static cord secures it, so it doesn't drop away completely, and gives you a connection(leash) in the event you need to push them out in front of you. The bungee keeps it tight(hopefully) to your body.

Perfect answer to a question I never asked. When diving I end up clipping off that line because 2 out of the 15 or so times I ran the tanks out front one slipped out of the bungee and dropped (was playing around). That is the only use I found for that static line since I dont ware my tanks to the water rather I carry them to the water then clip off in water.

 

[deepair]

Rob, I could not get your link to open. It might be operator error on my end. Could you repost it or PM it to me. Thanks in advance.

Bill

 

[Dive-aholic]

Perfect answer to a question I never asked. When diving I end up clipping off that line because 2 out of the 15 or so times I ran the tanks out front one slipped out of the bungee and dropped (was playing around). That is the only use I found for that static line since I dont ware my tanks to the water rather I carry them to the water then clip off in water.

Using bungee loops instead of the stock bungee decreases the chances of this happening. I won't say it won't happen at all, but it hasn't happened to me since I started using loops. That being said, you still need something that will keep the cylinder from pulling away too far from you if you do happen to drop it and it does need to be more secure than a bungee wrapped around the valve handle. Also, the static cord/snap bolt holds they cylinders in place while you are getting the rest of the cylinder and hoses in place.

Rob, I could not get your link to open. It might be operator error on my end. Could you repost it or PM it to me. Thanks in advance.

Bill

What link?

 

[Gnashrak]

Static cord secures it, so it doesn't drop away completely, and gives you a connection(leash) in the event you need to push them out in front of you. The bungee keeps it tight(hopefully) to your body.

How loose is the static cord compared to the bungie? Do you always wear these static cords and bungees or only to some specific types of dives? This is the first I hear of this piece of equipment (other than a static piece of equipment to clip bottles out of the water)

 

[SuPrBuGmAn]

The bungees are part of the system, they are always there.

The static chord, honestly, I don't bother with on big tanks that I know for a fact that I won't be manipulating in the water(they'll just stay at my sides). When its not going to be a problem, I'd rather do away with some of the clutter associated with an extra bolt snap on each side.




My leashes have 3-4" of slack on them, gives me enough room to push them out in front without the tanks being attached to my face... which is counterproductive to "being small".

 

[MXGratefulDiver]

Using bungee loops instead of the stock bungee decreases the chances of this happening.

I discovered during my Channel Islands trip that doing a giant stride from a boat with your tanks on can cause the bungees to slip off the tank valves. It's a simple matter to put them back on. The visual clue that this had occurred is that I could suddenly see my SPG in my peripheral vision.

How loose is the static cord compared to the bungie? Do you always wear these static cords and bungees or only to some specific types of dives? This is the first I hear of this piece of equipment (other than a static piece of equipment to clip bottles out of the water)

The static cord will cause the top of my cylinder to rest about 3-4 inches below the plane of my body. I find this handy for getting the tanks situated, because it allows me to see the regulator/tank valve. When the bungee loops are in place the top of the cylinder rests directly under my armpit, where I can't really see those things. For this reason, I always like to have the cords/boltsnaps in place. I have a specific sequence for donning my tanks ...

1. Clip the top bolt snap to the shoulder D-ring.
2. Pull the second stage out a bit, so I can see it.
3. Secure the rear bolt snap to the butt plate rail.
4. Connect the inflator hose and secure the reg around my neck.
5. Secure the bungee loop around the tank valve.

To doff the tank, I reverse the process ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

 

[beanojones]

He means this link:

http://chipoladivers.com/category/rig-modifications/

which was originally posted as

http://www.http.com//chipoladivers.com/category/rig-modifications/

Also, dammit I wish I lived in cave country to have you teach me sidemount. Since I have to teach myself, do you have any ideas on how to make things work. I have Transpac, and buttplate, and that's it so far. Can it be turned into a Nomad, or am I just being stupid by trying to get away with not spending money on a purpose built setup?

I never go overhead (other than deco), and the only reason for me to do it is just because. Somewhere down the road the thought is that older divers will one day all dive side mount (or at least monkey), as will intro divers, and I might as well figure out how to do it now both for and for tourists.

Also, does it make sense to compare monkey diving with sidemount diving??

(sorry for the thread high jack but)

 

[spatman]

(sorry for the thread high jack but)

this thread was hijacked a long time ago. around post #9 or so.

 

[MXGratefulDiver]

this thread was hijacked a long time ago. around post #9 or so.

So how'd class go? You coming on Saturday?

... Bob (Grateful Diver)