Nomad XT rigging/adjustments feedback appreciated

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spatman

Contributor
Messages
215
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Location
Portland, OR
# of dives
200 - 499
I just made the move to a sidemount configuration, and did my first two dives in my Nomad XT, one yesterday and one today. The class I was going to take this weekend was postponed, so I decided to head to a local lake with a couple friends to try out my new gear.

I asked my friends to shoot some video of me so I could see what I look like. It wasn't as ugly as I thought it might be, but there's definitely room for improvement.

During yesterday's dive I felt a bit head heavy so I moved the tanks straps up an inch or so which seems to have helped. I also changed a bit of hose routing between the dives as well.

If anyone has some constructive criticism or feedback about my rig, body position, choice of silty dive sites, etc, it would be much appreciated.

[video=vimeo;25639976]http://vimeo.com/25639976[/video]
 
Ok, you asked for it.

1. Valves are hanging too low. They need to be tucked up in your arm pits. Shortening the bungees will help a little, but you really need loopsbungees.
2. Hoses are messy. They may not be the proper length or just routed poorly. It's difficult to tell from the video.
3. Cylinders aren't positioned properly. They need to be parallel to your body. Pulling the valves up will help, but you also need to drop the bottoms.
4 D-rings are positioned improperly. They are too high on your chest. You may have a rig that's too small for you.
5. Crotch strap needs to be tightened.
6. Bolt snap on reg needs to be positioned so the reg doesn't hang so low when it's clipped off.

That's just what I saw on my phone watching it once. I'll watch it again at home on my laptop and see if I can add anything. :wink:
 
Rob,

Thanks for the feedback, this is exactly what I need to hear.

I have a few quick questions, with others sure to follow.

1 - What do you mean loopsbungees?

2 - I am sure both of my inflators are poorly routed and the wrong lengths. Currently they are both 22". I'll try to get a better picture of the routing tomorrow.

3 - To drop the bottoms of the tanks, what would be a good increment to lengthen the cord between the cam band and boltsnap? An inch? 2?

4 - it looks like the shoulder straps are adjustable. How much lower should the Drings be?

Thanks again for the help. It's much appreciated.
 
1. Take a look at my website, specifically the last photo on this page - Chipola Divers Sidemount Rig Modifications You'll see a looped shock cord in the photo. That's a loop bungee. The bungees you are using are connected to the d-ring using a bolt snap. That bolt snap keeps the cylinder from being able to get as close as you want it to be. It basically pushed the cylinder out. Your issue is more than that, though, right now. The length of your bungees is allowing the cylinders to hang so low the snap isn't pushing them. Once you shorten them (just tie a knot or issueou'll notice the issue.

2. Get inflator hoses 14-16 inches long.

3. Long enough to put the cylinders as I described earlier. I've seen as short as an inch and as long as 4.5.

4. Lower d-ring around the nipple line and upper d-ring a couple inches above. The bottom of the shoulder pad should come down to the bottom of your pectoralis (chest) muscle.
 
Not sure if its the same with the Nomad but on the SMS I dive the bungies are supposed to go around the tank to hold it to you body as opposed to hanging or wrapping around the tank valve.
 
1. Take a look at my website, specifically the last photo on this page - Chipola Divers Sidemount Rig Modifications You'll see a looped shock cord in the photo. That's a loop bungee.

ah, yes, that's what i saw on Bob Bailey's rig. i'll get some bungee and try it out.

2. Get inflator hoses 14-16 inches long.

Should these inflator hoses come from the 5th port of my 1st stage or one of the normal turret ports? currently they run from the normal turrent ports. i can try to get a pic posted if that helps.




Not sure if its the same with the Nomad but on the SMS I dive the bungies are supposed to go around the tank to hold it to you body as opposed to hanging or wrapping around the tank valve.

i'm not sure how i'd do that if i use the loop bungees Rob mentions above...
 
Not sure if its the same with the Nomad but on the SMS I dive the bungies are supposed to go around the tank to hold it to you body as opposed to hanging or wrapping around the tank valve.

It is the same. They are not supposed to route any particular way. The way most people route them is around the valves not the neck. But even around the neck, the bolt snap will push the top of the cylinder away from your body. I've done it both ways. The loops have proven to be the best way, for me.


spatman:
ah, yes, that's what i saw on Bob Bailey's rig. i'll get some bungee and try it out.

You probably already know Bob learned sidemount from me. Using his rig to make your modifications will help. We spent 6 days getting things right for him.

Should these inflator hoses come from the 5th port of my 1st stage or one of the normal turret ports? currently they run from the normal turrent ports. i can try to get a pic posted if that helps.

I recommend going with one of the normal turret ports. Running it from the end port will make it difficult to settle your cylinder in.


Something else I noticed is the long hose routing. I recommend moving it so it sits between the cylinder and your body, not directly under the cylinder. This will help prevent the loop on the bottom from getting caught on anything.
 
You probably already know Bob learned sidemount from me. Using his rig to make your modifications will help. We spent 6 days getting things right for him.

I hope to catch up with Bob this weekend, if possible. I'll take a closer look at his rig and pick his brain a bit, too.


I recommend going with one of the normal turret ports. Running it from the end port will make it difficult to settle your cylinder in.

Something else I noticed is the long hose routing. I recommend moving it so it sits between the cylinder and your body, not directly under the cylinder. This will help prevent the loop on the bottom from getting caught on anything.

Duly noted. Thanks for all the help so far, Rob.
 
Actually it is a bit diff. On the Hollis the tank band and valve are secured to the BC using nylon cord on bolt snaps, then around the midsection of the tank is a true bungie on a boltsnap as well however the line is elastic as opposed the valve and tank band which is nylon and NOT elastic


It is the same. They are not supposed to route any particular way. The way most people route them is around the valves not the neck. But even around the neck, the bolt snap will push the top of the cylinder away from your body. I've done it both ways. The loops have proven to be the best way, for me.




You probably already know Bob learned sidemount from me. Using his rig to make your modifications will help. We spent 6 days getting things right for him.



I recommend going with one of the normal turret ports. Running it from the end port will make it difficult to settle your cylinder in.


Something else I noticed is the long hose routing. I recommend moving it so it sits between the cylinder and your body, not directly under the cylinder. This will help prevent the loop on the bottom from getting caught on anything.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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