Newbie needs regulator advice, please

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The apeks atx50 is only about $90 more or so than the MK16 on leisurepro. I guess it can make a difference, but I've not regretted the apeks at all. mk25s are notorious for free-flows, but as DA says, if you are careful, you should have no problems. Good gas management, low pressure tanks, good dry air with a low dew point ... all factors that will help reduce free-flow risk.
 
For the cold water of Lake Huron you'd be smart to purchase the higher performance piston regulators such as the Poseidon Jetstream, or ScubaPro S600.

I've had mine in 22F water and they have never frozen/free flowed on me. I've had them down to 180ft, without anything ever happening. This to me proves that they are a reliable regulator in these conditions, and not only that, they've maintained their consistency of breathing when in cold & warm water.

As to service issues - I'm not aware of any. They may be more costly to have serviced, but haven't learned that you get what you pay for?

And isn't your life worth it?
 
DiveMistress2:
I've had mine in 22F water and they have never frozen/free flowed on me. I've had them down to 180ft, without anything ever happening. This to me proves that they are a reliable regulator in these conditions, and not only that, they've maintained their consistency of breathing when in cold & warm water.

Wow! I'm guessing at 22F that's in salt water. Can't imagine fresh water getting 10 degrees below freezing..... even in salt water that's pretty freakin cold.
 
warren_l:
Wow! I'm guessing at 22F that's in salt water. Can't imagine fresh water getting 10 degrees below freezing..... even in salt water that's pretty freakin cold.

I think I would want to check that temperature probe against another one. That is about -6 C so could be possible I guess say in the Niagara River with the current or somewhere in salt water like Bay of Fundy with big tidal drop.
Just curious DM2 where do you find temps like that with supercooled conditions to coldwater test your regs?!
 
Hey there Puffer,

This was in the Chippawa Creek on Jan 11th of last year. The depth is only 40-50ft, and there was amazing ice coral. If you've never seen it it's something to write home about.

We normally fix a rope with a large rock attached at the end to the dock at the exit point so that we can pull ourselves up and over the ice to exit the creek. Afterwards we have to have a coffee in the Tim Hortons so that our zippers unfreeze so that we can get out of the dry suits.

Niagara River is a great spot but the current is too quick to allow a safe entry/exit when there's some freezing on the surface.

I also dive during the summer in Lake Ontario & Georgian Bay where I've found temps as low as 32 at 100ft or so. Kingston's mildly warmer at a nice 50+ on average.

If you prefer the warmer dive spots, check out Brockville - it's the Canadian Caribbean for diving. It averages 70F at 110 ft.

Another great cold water reg which I forgot to mention which is more reasonably priced is the Sherwood Blizzard. Many of my fellow dive buddies have these and I've never seen one freeze to date.
 
Fishy8411:
They've got three regulators I'm thinking about now: ScubaPro MK16/S600, Mares MR-22 Abyss and an Atomic Z1 (the Apeks is too pricey). Once I make this purchase my wife won't let me make anymore for years, so I want to make it a good one. Any input?
The ideal situation would be try all three out and decide, but that's not always feasible. I'd say go for the least expensive of the three if you don't have any direct experience. I have a MR-22 Abyss and am very pleased with it (especially after I added the more comfortable Sea Cure mouthpiece which eliminated the occasional feeling that the hose was stiff in the mouth), and as Greg Barlow says you won't go wrong with any of the above.
 
ElectricZombie:
Get a ScubaPro or Apex reg. Make sure you buy it online. The warranty you get from buying from a LDS is useless.

Where do you get this drivel from??? The warranty from the manufacturer is not useless. Lifetime warranty on service kits is a very good incentive to buy at an authorized dealer. Initial cost may be higher, however, being covered by a manufacturers warranty also covers you for any improvements the manufacturer may make to the reg over the life of it (Scubapro has a habit of changing things when they find something else works better). Paying for all of this out of pocket will add up, and may wind up being more expensive in the long run (usually does).


Out of the three that you mentioned, I would go with the Scubapro MK16.

Also, for DiveMistress: the Poseidon Jetstream is NOT a piston reg. It is a diaphragm reg. ALso, I would have to say that I would recommend an environmentally sealed diaphragm reg for cold water (APEKS)...
 
LUBOLD8431:
Where do you get this drivel from??? The warranty from the manufacturer is not useless. Lifetime warranty on service kits is a very good incentive to buy at an authorized dealer. Initial cost may be higher, however, being covered by a manufacturers warranty also covers you for any improvements the manufacturer may make to the reg over the life of it (Scubapro has a habit of changing things when they find something else works better). Paying for all of this out of pocket will add up, and may wind up being more expensive in the long run (usually does).


It is clearly very useful to the dealer as it entices customes to buy from "authorized dealers" and then entices that customer to return every year and pay the $50.00 to $100.00 labor fee for the annual service to maintain that warranty. It may also get some dealers free parts as some, if not all, of the components of the service kit may not be used each year.

For those customers that don't take good care of their gear, it can be useful as they may actually require service annually or even more frequently. Dealer has got to love these guys.

For those customers who buy in to the "peace of mind" arguement and have their gear serviced "religiously", it is useful if the peace of mind is achieved. Again, that dealer has got to love you - especially those that only replace the bad parts and shelve the rest. Darn, I'm sorry if that erodes your peace of mind. Read on and maybe you will feel better.

For those who bought from other than an authorized dealer or got tired of paying the annual rent on their kit, the good news is the "annual replacement" components in these thing really will last for years of use with good care. Contaminants (like salt water) inside the first stage is probably the biggest threat. Good cleaning and storage practices can save you a lot more $$ than that warranty if that is important. Learning to handle the small problems on your own (like changing hose o-rings and adjusting the 2nd when performance changes a little) can save you a bunch more. Finally, if you are reasonably mechanically inclined (and like tools almost as much as regulators) and decide to do it yourself, the resources are there (I think the effort of finding them is a good part of the learning process). Then you may find, like I have, that the cost of maintaining a stage is on the order of $5.00 dollars a year for parts rather than the $25.00 per year for labor plus parts. And those proprietary, hard-to-come-by parts like seats will really last 3 to 5 years, or more.

But DIY isn't for everyone. If you wouldn't think of doing a brake job or feel that programming a VCR is too confusing, leave the heavy service to a trusted tech. And if repairing a faucet is just too intimidating, you may even want to stay away from those simple repairs. Somebody has to keep the auto mechanics and scuba techs in business. But you can still re-evaluate your need for annual service just to maintain a warranty.
 
Apeks service interval is every other year. The labor is the same whether or not you have a warranty. Secondly, in my experience, HP seats do NOT last 3-5 years, thats ridiculous. Maybe a little over two years with some manufacturers before you get an IP creep. Also, as far the servicing goes, according to the service guidelines for Apeks and Aqualung (and most manufacturers) everything in the service kit gets used. BTW, the most important thing IS the HP seat, diaphragm, and the rest are orings. Labor charges to overhaul a first stage and two second stages would be more in the neigborhood of $40-60.
 
Delhi Diver:
The ideal situation would be try all three out and decide, but that's not always feasible. I'd say go for the least expensive of the three if you don't have any direct experience. I have a MR-22 Abyss and am very pleased with it (especially after I added the more comfortable Sea Cure mouthpiece which eliminated the occasional feeling that the hose was stiff in the mouth), and as Greg Barlow says you won't go wrong with any of the above.


What Delhi Diver states are my sentiments as well. I'm partial to the Mares myself, but as already mentioned "you won't go wrong with any of the above".
 

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