My venture into Sidemount.

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Actually, you want the snap bolts slightly back from that. If you are looking down at your cylinder from the valve with the handle of the right cylinder at 3 o'clock, position the snap bolt at 8 o'clock. Do the same using 9 o'clock and 4 o'clock for the left cylinder.

Thanks!

Don't mess with the weights right now. One thing at a time. I'm not even so sure you need to lower the cam bands at this point.

What kind of Tusa's? If they are the Xpert Splits, they're also pretty heavy.

:rofl3: No, we're talking the basic Tusa's one get's for OW training. They float. Literally. But they do match my outfit! :blinking:

:giggle:
 
There's really no need for ditchable weight. I'm usually overweighted, even in salt water, with just the steel cylinders. Adding ditchable weight would only overweight me more.

Thanks - I'm in socal and dive most of the year with a Fusion drysuit. Currently 24lbs with a Steel 120 (-11lbs/-2lbs) and a OMS Steel Back Plate (5lbs) with wing so dropping the backplate and adding the tank I believe I still require ~24lbs.

I think some pool time to validate my weight requirements.

Dwayne
 
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Jax:
No, we're talking the basic Tusa's one get's for OW training. They float. Literally. But they do match my outfit!

You did mention splits earlier!


DwayneJ:
Thanks - I'm in socal and dive most of the year with a Fusion drysuit. Currently 24lbs with a Steel 120 (-11lbs/-2lbs) and a OMS Steel Back Plate (5lbs) with wing so dropping the backplate and adding the tank I believe I still require ~24lbs.

I think some pool time to validate my weight requirements.

Dwayne

I dive a Pinnacle Black Ice, compressed neoprene dry suit. Two Faber 95s (-8.3/-1.2) are enough to keep me neutral at the end of the dive. But then again, I don't breathe my cylinders below 1800 usually.
 
You did mention splits earlier!

Good Morning!

Yes, I also have a pair of Pink Twin Jets -- they are even more floaty than the Tusa's. I got them hoping to take pressure off my knees, but they're way too flexible and acually cause more work on my knees.
 
Rob - I'm trying to attach my cord to the rig. What is the item in the circle, please? I cannot tell if it is part of a tie or just a tuft..
 

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Critique, please! :)
 

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I would have run the tubing all the way to the opening on the dump valve. It would reduce the length you will have to pull the cord to activate the dump.

Are those REALLY pink tie wraps?
 
I would have run the tubing all the way to the opening on the dump valve. It would reduce the length you will have to pull the cord to activate the dump.

Are those REALLY pink tie wraps?

:( No, I couldn't find any pink. :depressed:

And, I ran out of my tiny black ones . . .
 
:( No, I couldn't find any pink. :depressed:

And, I ran out of my tiny black ones . . .

LOL...he laughs at my blue ones too.

www.cableorganizer.com has them in multitudes of colors.


Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
 
YouTube - 20101114 SM moved cam (4) Bungee Shift.MOV

Okay, I'm posting the link to YouTube because it seems to load faster.

This isn't the best video, but it is important in that I unhooked the "over the valve handle bungees" and threaded them around each tank's neck. There's a bit of difference.

Initially, I tug on the tanks and such to pull them as far forward as possible, and confirm they are equal at 2000psi.

Also, I am still wearing two pounds on each shoulder.

It is a long video -- and I disappear as I struggled with the bungees. The pool inlet 'current' blew me off screen.

The last part is with the bungee completely around the neck of each tank, with each tank tugged forward.

Okay, for a "Thanks" click: who can identify an accessory that does not belong in this picture?!?!?! :D
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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