Max-Air 55?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Genesis

Contributor
Messages
4,427
Reaction score
14
Location
Destin
Anyone have comments on this compressor?

Its a low-RPM unit (~1100 rpm), 5cfm or thereabouts in FAD.

I'm specifically interested in how it compares against the Bauer Capitano or the Coltri, both of which are approximately the same in terms of output and basic specs.
 
The Max Air units use a Coltri block. Then they build the control package around it. I'd probably go with the Bauer or an Ingersoll Rand block if I could find one. Do you have 3 phase power available?
 
I didn't realize the Max-Air was a Coltri block.... useful!

No 3-phase here. This is going in at my house, so its single-phase 220V. I do have 200A main service so I can start anything up to about 7.5HP across the line. The Max-Air 55 is a 5hp motor; well within the limits; depending on the nameplate info on the motor I will either wire to a 40 or 50A breaker. Running current at full load should be in the ~22A range, assuming 80ish% efficiency on the motor.

Why would I prefer the Bauer or Ingersol-Rand rather than the Coltri block? I am talking with someone who may be able to source a rebuilt Capitano with a new motor and electrical box, which would be a comparable unit.

(I'll likely add my own magnetic starter and pressure switch - the idea that a mag starter is worth $1,000, as all these guys seem to think, is insane. I can buy the contactor in an NEMA enclosure from Grainger for under $150, and for single-phase motors there is no need for phase-drop protection as there is with a 3-phase unit.)
 
By control package you mean HP or jsut the motor starter? Maxair looks exactly like COltri to me.

If anyone really must have a Maxair do a google for Maxair you can find it much cheaper here now without the Max name. Only reason I would buy a Coltri is if I got it much cheaper say 30% than a Bauer.




Friggincold once bubbled...
The Max Air units use a Coltri block. Then they build the control package around it. I'd probably go with the Bauer or an Ingersoll Rand block if I could find one. Do you have 3 phase power available?
 
the Coltri block.

The Max-Air 55 and 90 are Coltris with their own name on them.

I have a VERY aggressive price on the 55. Cheaper than a rebuilt Bauer for a brand new, still-on-the-pallet unit.

Best price I've found is in the $4500 + freight range on the 55 Standard, which is WAY better than I've been able to find on the Coltri OR Bauer - comparable to the Oceanus, and that's a smaller and FAR less-heavy-duty unit.

That price is just for the bare unit - no mag starter or final pressure switch, nor auto drains, but it DOES include an 8,000 CF filter stack. A mag starter is just a contactor and a couple of buttons, and those are CHEAP - I can buy one from Grainger or build the thing for about $100. The pressure switch is a bit tougher, but I bet I can come up with one of those at a reasonable price too. Auto drains are an entirely different matter; I can't justify the money they want for those...
 
A DIY auto drain isn't a big deal. A timer, solonoid valve and two pnuematic valves and of course the plumbing. The valve can be had fo $50 per valve. I'm not sure about the solonoid valve or the timmer but it can't be too much. If your going to pump any amount of air an 8000 cu ft stack sounds small. Is that a single filter? Are these things comming without any controls? The electrical is no problem but I hate plumbing.
 
assuming you unload the high pressure stage, is MAJOR expensive.

If you use a pilot valve arrangement to unload the low pressure with the solenoid and trigger the other two from that, then it might be a bit more reasonable. But "bubble-tight" solenoid valves are surprisingly expensive, even for relatively low pressure! I've been looking into it and the PARTS cost a bloody fortune...

8,000 cuft filtration is standard, and roughly 100 AL80s. Since you should change the filter every six months or so regardless of use, from my projected use I should get somewhere between three and six months on a filter, which is fine. Of course I will have to derate that for intake temperature (since it tends to be HOT down here!) :)

Bauer's P1 that they put on is 15,000 cuft, and that's what they typically install for the "small to midsize" shop as a matter of standard. Of course you can buy duplexed or even greater number of stacks and get more life from it.

If I ever start SELLING air, then I would upgrade the filtration, and might even buy a hyperfilter stack. For personal and dive buddy use, then it should be fine...

Electrical and plumbing don't bother me. I can do hose-style connections with HP hose easily enough; hard-line isn't much more difficult....
 
The only part I have had to buy or price is the dump valves themeselves. Timmers aren't too expensive but I haven't priced the solonoid valve. It is a pilot valve arrangement. I paid $100 per valve from a compressor dealer but I now know where he gets them and he only pays $50. I haven't contacted them to see if I can buy direct but I'm sure you could get the valves somewhere. I can't imagine it costing what a commercial auto dump costs though. If you buy from a compressor dealer everything is expensive and so far all of them that I have had dealings with are .....well I don't have a good word to put in here. I would have to look again to see exactly how (haven't had to do anything with it) but the pilot presure comes off the second stage I think, I'll let you know after lunch. All there is is a 120 v timmer/relay which triggers a solonoid valve that actuates two dump valves one for each seperator.

I suppose someday I should list all the parts and find sources and prices for all the controls. After I bought my system I spent a few hours with a meter tracing wires and drawing a schematic because of course nothing came with the system.

If anyone is interested in the layout of the controls let me know. I can try to scan them. The guy who built it hasen't done me any favors.

If your going to run the thing for any length of time like to fill a bank you will want an auto dump.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom