Halcyon H75P + Halo (weird?) cranking effort

[Open Ocean Diver]

Unless it's a combination of variances in flow vane and barrel and you'd think it's the barrel.

Questions in my post #156 remain

What happens if you use all parts from free flow barrel into non FFB and vice versus?

I’ll try that to next. Thanks

 

[buddhasummer]

Yes, just curious. No, they dive great..

The curiosity is killing me

 

[estresao]

Just to be clear, MY issue with the Halos has been that they start off breathing fine. After not too many dives, they develop a weird "pop" on inhale - like something is sticking. I inhale light and slow and it's a bit hard to inhale. I inhale a little harder and it gives a pop sensation and gas comes in like it should after that. Until the next breath...

That's also my issue (aside that now I cannot manage to get the cranking effort around 1 water inch... or event 2)

This pop is very anoying to me when diving in caves because I try to sip very little, which most of the times doesn't work because I have to get the "pop" point to havea "normal" cranking effort.

 

[estresao]

I don't know what I'm talking about.

LOL!

But seriously.... there was discussion about an out-of-spec O-ring. On the poppet (I THINK it was). I am not sure exactly which O-ring was being discussed. It sounded reasonable, at the time.

Y'all are getting me curious now, though. Curious enough that if the latest round of work on them (by someone else) doesn't fix them, I might just try experimenting on my own.

I.e. verify the problem occurs. Then disassemble, lube the poppet O-rings. Reassemble. See if the problem is still there.

If just lubing the poppet O-rings makes the problem go away, then I may try sourcing a geniune ScubaPro service kit for the G250 (V?) and replace just the poppet O-rings and see if the problem stays gone.

I don't know. I'm curious. But, I'm also sick of dealing with them...

I had problems using non original o-ring, but after realizing that was the problem I bought original Halcyon kits. On the beginning I've got proper cranking effort and everything like a charm..... but after some dives I've started experiencing the same "pop" issue. I've used different lubricants just in case, lubricated them in different ways but, at some point the "pop" issue comes out again.

I have some theories:
- Lubricant need to be some very specific one.... I've used both silicon and christolube.
- The original Halcyon service kit is not fulfilling the requirements.... well, when used to use non original kits the cranking effort were very high from the beginning. Now, if you get an acceptable crank effort it's fine until a number of dives where tu start experiencing the "pop" effect.... so I don't think it's because of that.
- Could it be because any lubricant becomes more viscous with time because the water or air influence?
- Could it be because the poppet is frictioning somewehere else? like in the inner housing?

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

I had problems using non original o-ring, but after realizing that was the problem I bought original Halcyon kits. On the beginning I've got proper cranking effort and everything like a charm..... but after some dives I've started experiencing the same "pop" issue. I've used different lubricants just in case, lubricated them in different ways but, at some point the "pop" issue comes out again.

I have some theories:
- Lubricant need to be some very specific one.... I've used both silicon and christolube.
- The original Halcyon service kit is not fulfilling the requirements.... well, when used to use non original kits the cranking effort were very high from the beginning. Now, if you get an acceptable crank effort it's fine until a number of dives where tu start experiencing the "pop" effect.... so I don't think it's because of that.
- Could it be because any lubricant becomes more viscous with time because the water or air influence?
- Could it be because the poppet is frictioning somewehere else? like in the inner housing?

When you press on your purge button watch the ip gauge, how far do you need to press before the ip starts moving?

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

The curiosity is killing me

Switching the barrels now… removing the rebuilt barrel from the case that won’t free flow to the case that will.

Just a note… R1 won’t free flow if I have any tools in the ip inline, like inline adjusters or cutoff switches.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

Switching the barrels now… removing the rebuilt barrel from the case that won’t free flow to the case that will.

Just a note… R1 won’t free flow if I have any tools in the ip inline, like inline adjusters or cutoff switches.

Results - R1 won’t free flow with R2‘s barrel @ 1.0 CE

Interesting I removed the knob pin and went beyond the normal counter clockwise stop position till I measured .5 CE and it free flowed.

So R1 barrel will free flow at 1.0 CE in R1 or R2 cases, R2 barrel in R1 case will free flow with CE .5

I think I went down this rabbit hole a year or so ago.

Simon what’s next??

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

Thoughts… even though the poppet separation is the same without being under pressures and the cracking effort is the same, the spring under compression must be different and therefore stiffer. Venturi effect isn’t strong enough to keep the valve open with the stiffer spring.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

Thoughts… even though the poppet separation is the same without being under pressures and the cracking effort is the same, the spring under compression must be different and therefore stiffer. Venturi effect isn’t strong enough to keep the valve open with the stiffer spring.

Removed poppet, spring and BC from R1 installed in R2 barrel, adjusted the same just a bit below 1.0 and it wouldn’t free flow. Next installed R2 poppet, spring and BC in R1 barrel adjusted the same bang it free flowed.

The only thing I haven’t changed from one barrel to the other is orifice and lever. Both levers are at the same height when I adjust to stop the leak +30 degrees.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

Wake up Simon…