Gear Requirements for the Solo Diver?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I do like the idea Tbone mentioned about the H valve. It's something I'll further investigate. I'll have to think about the drawbacks. One that immediately comes to mind is all my tanks would need to be converted.

I also need to think more about a backup mask. The tether eliminates losing the mask due to strap failure or the mask falling off my head, but it doesn't eliminate lens or skirt failure. I don't know how likely that would be. Maybe not likely at all, but I am weary of many products today as they are made in Asia and quality control is questionable. I think it's fair to question anything made in Asia knowing the guy who assembled it could be in his 12 hour of the shift and has earned $5 for the days work. :/
 
I concede in your convoluted scenario that arm mounting would not work, though suspect that you could still get the knife out with a bit of fiddling and ingenuity, I'll have to have a play.

But your second point, about convention, nothing about convention dictates that it's right or best practice. It's conventional for people my age to get blindingly drunk every friday night...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice attempt at diversion. I’ll award 25 points but deduct 50 for using a false equivalency.

Divers, solo or not, should look to the collective wisdom that came before them and then ask “why” and “is there a better way”. Chances are, at this point in time, most of these conventions persist for well-established reasons. You don’t have to think too hard to come up with well-grounded arguments on why the solo diver should carry 2 cutting devices located in areas that are easily accessible with either hand. The inverse is not true however and I suspect that you cannot come up with good arguments on why you should place your cutting device in a location that is only reachable with one hand, except that it looks cool.
 
I think access with both hands is important for a cutting tool. In my limited experience with true entanglement it's usually not just one limb or piece of gear that's entangled, it's a combination of things like your arm, valve and fin. And the harder you pull the worse it gets. Being able to access your cutting tool from both hands could mean the difference between a relatively simple situation to solve to a more complicated stressful situation.

I have to agree with OldNSalty.
 
So a little background, I'm no stranger to the ocean, it's down the street from my house and has been all my life. I shallow freedive, fish, have owned a boat since '99, etc., so I'm very comfortable in and around the ocean, but obviously scuba is new to me and comes with added risks. I feel very comfortable under water. I'm trying to dive as much as possible. This year my goal is to do at least a couple dives once a week. I've experienced very few issues while scuba diving, mainly just line entanglements from my gun, which I intend on moving on to freeshafting soon.

So that said, I know there are a couple agencies that offer solo training, but I'm curious what skills are taught? Is it worth the money? I only ask because after doing AOW I felt like it really didn't provide much value. Of course I don't have regrets, because I know some operators require it, but to me it was just OW 2.0.

So setting gear aside, what skills would be taught in a solo course that could be valuable to me or skills that I don't already know?

side mount training also is useful, tdi is the way to go.....skills- Emergency management, changing over to your pony at depth, deploying smb from depth, navigation exercises, taking your rig off and on at the surface and at depth. Inflating your bcd manually at depth. using mirror and whistle at the surface to attract attention(using a gps also). Fittness tests, swims etc.
https://www.tdisdi.com/sdi/get-certified/solo-diver-course/
 
No, the pony is on and the regs are pressurized. The second stage is secured like you would a stage bottle. I picked up a inline shut off valve for the second stage and a OPV for the first stage. This is to prevent an unnoticed free flow from occurring, especially at the beginning of a dive when I'm splashing off the boat and a brief free flow is most likely. To deploy I just pull on the reg and the hose pulls free and slide the inline valve open. I can also remove the pony from the back mount if needed as the Highland pony mount uses a cam strap on the pony. I like this setup because it's basically like a tightly packaged stage/bail out bottle and barring a failure there's no chance of gas loss plus I don't have to open the tank valve behind me to get air.

The Highland mount is very nice too. The bottles do not bang on each other, the pony is very rigid. Also, it's very easy to swap tanks, which was important to me so I don't get in the habit of leaving it on the boat because it's a pain in the ass. Since the hose and reg is tightly secured like a stage tank all I have to do is hook it on to my primary tank cam band and it's installed. I like your DIY pony mount, but I don't believe it would work well with my double cam straps. If I'm not mistaken I think your BC only has one cam strap which allows you to slide the pony cam strap over the tank.

I came up with the mask tether primarily due to the many videos and stories I've read of angry fish knocking a mask off someone's head. Aside from losing the mask, I would also lose my GoPro if it came loose. So here's how it works. On the back of my neoprene mask strap I cut a small slit right at the hem. I installed a mountable zip tie, the kind that has a hole in it for screwing the zip tie down to a surface. Add a dab of neoprene glue to prevent tearing. I put another mountable zip tie on the back side of my octo necklace. I took approximately 6" of nylon line and tied a brass swivel snap to both ends. On one of the ends I removed the swivel. This makes it easy to add or remove. If my mask and GoPro were to get knocked off my head it should be sitting on my neck or shoulders. The entanglement risk is minimal because it hugs the back of my neck and even if it did become entangled I could easily cut the nylon line. Here's a picture for reference. I admit that I likely wouldn't use it on shallow dives with good viz. But if the plan was to hunt AJ or Cobia I most likely will, just because of the nature of those powerful fish.

As far as a buddy grabbing the octo, they're not going to get far with it because it's on a short hose over my shoulder. I also did not zip tie the necklace to the reg. It's tightly secured with shock cord, but not permanently attached to the reg. I did this purposefully so that in the unlikely event something did entangle the octo hose I could pull the reg free from the necklace to untangle it. I also did it so in the extremely unlikely event me and a buddy have to do a true air share due to my primary failing the reg can be removed from the necklace and we can do a very uncomfortable air share. The latter scenario is hardly worth bringing up with the pony in the equation.

I know some would argue against having 3 second stages, but in order to to eliminate one that would mean I need to either use an AIR2 or flat out ditch the octo on my primary. I don't like either of those options. In an air share situation I want to breath on an identical second stage as the one I was just using before donating. I want independence from my octo and inflator. As for the latter option of ditching the octo, I would be really pissed if I found myself in a situation where I needed air and there was a whole bunch of it on my back, but I couldn't access it because I didn't have a backup and my primary failed for whatever reason, like for example a cuda just sheared the hose. I could crimp the hose to stop the gas loss, but it would be hard to breath from it. Not to mention on shallow dives or if I develop a solid relationship with a good buddy I may not bring the pony and therefore could be going back and forth installing and uninstalling the hose and reg.

I have never tried to capture a bubble with my hand and eye socket. This is something I'm going to have to practice to see how realistic it would be for me as a solid solution. Saltwater stings and remember the viz over on our coast isn't as good as yours.


Well in my opinion, after thousands of spearing dives... your rig is not something I would select. You have an extra octopus you don't need, you have an in-line valve that is a potential failure source, you have an OPV valve that you don't need, you have your mask connected to a regulator necklace which is very "unusual", you are carrying a spool you don't need and I suspect you will soon figure you need a spare mask as well - especially if you feel that seawater hurts your eyes.


Do you have the head mounted go-pro on a lanyard as well? If so, this is also superfluous; if you make a decent chin strap, you will not lose the Go-Pro.

You have indicated you also freedive as well. It might be beneficial for you to configure a consistent and common method to wear the knife when scuba diving and freediving. This may enhance your safety and your ability to access the knife quickly and efficiently.

In general, stuff you need immediately, like a light, needs to be clipped off on a d-ring for instance access, not shoved in a pocket.

Also, possibly you are unaware of this, but you can use a standard BC inflator to breathe from. It is probably more practical than thinking you are gonna grab and pinch a failed regulator hose that is whipping around underwater.

And your idea that you are going to wear a pony bottle with certain buddies, but really good ones that you have a "relationship with" - you won't need a pony bottle? LOL Any good spearfishing buddy is going to be shooting fish NOT babysitting your azz at 100 ft.
 
holy crap, i just agreed with DD, what is the world coming to....

what he said about the regulators is true, i must have skimmed that. If you're diving with a pony on all dives, then ditch your standard octo and run the pony regulator up around your neck on a suicide strap. Two first stages, two second stages. No shutoffs, no opv's *unless diving Poseidons*, and call it a day.

Set your rig up similar to the way GUE specifies their gear. Backup lights on the chest d-rings running down and strapped in with bungee or innertube for instant access, right side preferred for single light. Check the GUE page for pocket contents. Keep some double ender bolt snaps, shears, extra spool, and mask in the left. Can also keep an extra light or glo-tube in there if you want. Right pocket is typically wetnotes and other really random stuf fyou may carry with you.

I still prefer reels or spools for shooting dsmbs and bags, but it is something you really do have to practice regularly to stay proficient at.

Don't plan on breathing off of the inflator, but it is possible. That said, highly unlikely you'll ever need to do that because the second stage shouldn't fail closed, so don't practice that unless you sterilize your bc bladder regularly. Some people have almost died from the stuff that can grow in them. Bad news, don't do it.

Spearfishing is always solo or same ocean diving. Once you settle on your gear configuration for a given environment, it should not change based on who you are diving with. I am a firm believer in DWW vs DIR, and that there are equipment configurations better for certain environments than others, BUT you should still settle on some sort of standardization for the environment and leave it like that because you'll be more comfortable and reliable that way.
 
I do not completely agree that setting up one's gear per GUE standards is a particularly good idea for a solo diver since it is a configuration designed for team diving but certainly there are things that transfer. Well, I guess I see the point.

I just do not find the need of an "octopus" for a solo diver rig. If I want redundancy I would want full redundancy provided by a pony/aux bottle, isolation manifolded twins or independent doubles back mounted, or in the fashion of the moment, side mounted.

N
 
that's why I said similar to where the harness, pockets, suicide strap etc is fairly recognizable. I am 100% with you though that if you're carrying a second bottle as a pony, it should be your secondary air source and not have multiple second stages on a single first stage.
 
that's why I said similar to where the harness, pockets, suicide strap etc is fairly recognizable. I am 100% with you though that if you're carrying a second bottle as a pony, it should be your secondary air source and not have multiple second stages on a single first stage.
Only reason I keep the octopus on is I'm too lazy to change it out. I am rapidly approaching the point where I can have a dedicated solo rig, so I may have to rethink that point.
 
All dives should be regarded as solo dives because all dives actually are solo dives.

Keep equipment as minimal as possible, strive for sleekness and ease of motion. A small bail out bottle is a good idea, but careful and continual monitoring of depth and gas consumption during a well planned dive should suffice. Excepting equipment failure as a cause, running out of air is an indication that one is not fully prepared for any kind of scuba diving.

Knowing what you are doing is the one essential to all diving. The term 'solo diving' is a redundancy. The nature of the dive dictates the needed equipment, not the number of other divers. Lugging redundant equipment is silly and self-defeating. You are unlikely to get a spare mask from your buddy during the dive. in any case, you should not need one, even under the worst circumstances.

A couple of carefully positioned and effective line cutting devices should always be part of your kit.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom