Galvanized LP72 documentation

[JamesBon92007]

. I do not use any steel cylinder that is not galvanized.

A couple of my cylinders have black factory paint on top of the galvanizing, but I can see the galvanizing finish under the paint. I cut a small rectangle of paint to provide a good spot for stamping the new hydro dates and the galvanize finish is obvious.
I hope this helps.

Please expound upon the above statement. If a tank passes VIP and hydro is there some other reason not to use it if it's not galvanized? All but one of my steel 72s are galvanized but up until now I didn't worry about the one that isn't.

I have a couple of tanks that have a black (epoxy?) coating over the galvanizing. I'm having trouble removing the paint and of course I don't want to scratch through the galvanization. Do you have any suggestions?

 

[halocline]

Do you mean you re-primed and painted ZRC over the original galvanized finish?

Yes, but the ZRC galvilite is specifically for repairing and touching up galvanized surfaces, so it's supposed to adhere. I used paint stripper to take off the paint, and while the galvanized finish underneath stood up to the stripper (hehe) there were scrapes, dings, and overall it didn't look like it would hold up. So I lightly sanded it and sprayed a few coats of the galvilite over it. That stuff is very high percentage zinc.

 

[halocline]

Please expound upon the above statement. If a tank passes VIP and hydro is there some other reason not to use it if it's not galvanized? All but one of my steel 72s are galvanized but up until now I didn't worry about the one that isn't.

I have a couple of tanks that have a black (epoxy?) coating over the galvanizing. I'm having trouble removing the paint and of course I don't want to scratch through the galvanization. Do you have any suggestions?

I think Luis just doesn't want to bother with tanks that are likely to rust; other than that there's no inherent reason that non-galvanized LP72s are a problem to dive with.

With mine, the paint just fell off using regular paint stripper (methylene chloride based gel) and a putty knife. I did put a few small scratches in the tanks but nothing serious. I found that the stripper seemed to attack the galvanized finish underneath but much more slowly so it was easy to get the paint off and rinse the tank without damage.

 

[sealark]

Get your own compressor, problem solved.

 

[Luis H]

I think Luis just doesn't want to bother with tanks that are likely to rust; other than that there's no inherent reason that non-galvanized LP72s are a problem to dive with.

Yes, I just hate rust. And I hate spending (wasting) time servicing something that should have never needed service.

 

[Luis H]

Please expound upon the above statement. If a tank passes VIP and hydro is there some other reason not to use it if it's not galvanized? All but one of my steel 72s are galvanized but up until now I didn't worry about the one that isn't.

I have a couple of tanks that have a black (epoxy?) coating over the galvanizing. I'm having trouble removing the paint and of course I don't want to scratch through the galvanization. Do you have any suggestions?

If it has good paint that it is well adhered over a galvanized surface, why do you want to remove it. IMO Just go dive it.

Did I mentioned that I hate wasting time on some pointless projects? But, that is just me.

 

[JamesBon92007]

If it has good paint that it is well adhered over a galvanized surface, why do you want to remove it. IMO Just go dive it.

Did I mentioned that I hate wasting time on some pointless projects? But, that is just me.

Me either. The paint was coming off in some places so when I began to remove it much of it came off easily but some of it just doesn't seem to want to be removed. I tried paint remover but I'm reluctant to use a steel putty knife.

 

[guruboy]

Got the tanks back. Said he did the 90% pre-test but I still lost 1/4.

I'm averaging 25% failure rate with these tanks, all due to expansion (sample size 8)