Do you think this can pass visual?

[Lostdiver71]

The linked valve will fit, take it to your LDS for a VIP and if it passes spray it down with some Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing paint. You will not be able to use a yoke style regulator with this tank. XS Valve, 300 Bar DIN outlet, 7/8 UNF inlet threads

 

[Lostdiver71]

You can also call around to different dive shops and Hydro facilities and see if they have any old valves lying around that will fit.you need a valve with a 7/8"-14 UNF thread size.

 

[OTF]

That's a pressed steel cylinder. Neck threads are 7/8-14 UNF. They are mostly only available on 3500 PSI cylinders. Yoke regulators aren't rated for that pressure, in most cases.

Free stuff is free because it isn't worth the time or effort to deal with it. You've sanded the cylinder which goes against every cylinder rule, so now your Fill Station Operator will hassle you when you go to get it filled. You don't have a regulator that will connect to it, so now you have to upgrade your regulator at close to the same price that you would pay for a good used cylinder.

But you showed us. You came here asking for advice and everyone said to not use the cylinder, but you showed us.

Of course, you can spray paint it with a good zinc paint that you can get at Ace Hardware, but it will rust anyway. It will never be as good as a good used tank that will meet your needs with the gear you currently have.

In the second pic you can see it's one of the Spun steel Japanese tanks (Asahi). Fine tanks but heavy. Some people say they have rust problems internally on the bottom (or something like that) due to the texture left by the spinning process but I don't know if that's true.

This usefulness of tank will depend entirely on how it looks inside. Maybe it was full of dry air but stored on a wet salty boat and all the damage is external. Or maybe it's a disaster inside. Take a look inside, if it looks okay then take it for vis+hydro. If huge chunks of rust fall out, then maybe don't bother.

 

[Bob DBF]

No yoke valves at 3500#

I have a vintage reg set made for 4000# service made by Shrewood around 1980. This was back when the only DIN available in the US was made by Poseidon.

 

[BRT]

I have a vintage reg set made for 4000# service made by Shrewood around 1980. This was back when the only DIN available in the US was made by Poseidon.

Maybe there are some. Have you ever seen a yoke valve rated for 3500 or above? I've seen the yokes with that rating but never a yoke valve.

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

I'd sand it and paint it, but for an art project, not diving.

Cylinders are way too inexpensive to mess around with something like this.

 

[Julius SCHMIDT]

Brass is brass, the condition of the mating surfaces and orings and duro is important, I rate all my yoke valves from the mid sixties onwards with a burst disc update at 3500psi+

 

[Pedro Burrito]

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[captain]

Maybe there are some. Have you ever seen a yoke valve rated for 3500 or above? I've seen the yokes with that rating but never a yoke valve.

Valves are not rated, the burst disc in it is.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

Whatever you choose to do to the outside of the tank whether wire wheel or bead blast to clean it up, it needs to be hydro’d afterward. No exceptions.
I would bead blast it and epoxy prime the bare steel then send it in for hydro. If it passes then I’d prep the primer and top coat it, taping off the fresh hydro stamp and not painting over that part of it.
A lot of work though for something that looks marginal.