Do you think this can pass visual?

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Seville

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I got this tank for free, it was hydroed in 2018. It has some rust on the top and bottom. It looks like it is chipping. My buddy told me it was just the galvanized coating that was chipping off and not the actual tank. Do you think it will pass vis like this? Can I use a wire wheel to grind it all off or will that compromise the tank?

IMG_1521.JPG
 
First I'd take the valve off (empty tank of course) and have a look inside. If there's no rust inside then I would put the valve back on and bead blast the exterior. I would not wire wheel it or sand it. Then have it re-hydroed. If it passes hydro I'd degrease and paint it with a quality two part marine paint. May as well replace the valve while you're at it.

Worst case, you're out ~$30 to learn it failed hydro. I agree it does look bad. Looks like water intrusion from previous hydro stamps.
 
The Hydro is still good, it was hydroed in 2018. So I am just looking to get the vis done. What kind of boat paint do you use?
 
The Hydro is still good, it was hydroed in 2018. So I am just looking to get the vis done. What kind of boat paint do you use?
I realize it was hydroed in 2018, but if it was floating in the ocean for two years and then someone found it and gave it to you, it wouldn't be in the same condition it was in 2018 when it got the hydro.

I am not a fill operator or certified to VIP tanks, but I couldn't in good conscience ask someone to fill it for me without knowing for sure it won't cause loss of life or limb. I imagine someone who is certified to VIP tanks will chime in and say something similar.

I have heard some hydro shops will blast and repaint as well. Personally that is the route I would go.
 
I think this tank is a goner; I would not put much effort into it at all. This is not how galvanized tanks normally look, so make it into a bell or something.

SeaRat
 
needs to be cleaned up a bit, but the real question is how it looks internally. the exterior galv is sacrificial and if there is no pitting after it is cleaned, some touchup with ZRC is all that is needed.
 
I just got done sanding it down. and the steel looks really good, there is no pitting or anything like that and I was able to blend it where the hand cannot even feel the difference. I need to replace the valve. it is a 120 rated at 3500 psi. Is there a yoke valve I could use that is made for high pressure?
 

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That looks like the old style genesis valve.. I think that's what it's called...... I have one on an angle like that... its abit odd i think. (1/2 nsp I think)
Pop the valve off look inside if good disassemble the valve clean it. New orings
And paint the tank.
 
That's a pressed steel cylinder. Neck threads are 7/8-14 UNF. They are mostly only available on 3500 PSI cylinders. Yoke regulators aren't rated for that pressure, in most cases.

Free stuff is free because it isn't worth the time or effort to deal with it. You've sanded the cylinder which goes against every cylinder rule, so now your Fill Station Operator will hassle you when you go to get it filled. You don't have a regulator that will connect to it, so now you have to upgrade your regulator at close to the same price that you would pay for a good used cylinder.

But you showed us. You came here asking for advice and everyone said to not use the cylinder, but you showed us.

Of course, you can spray paint it with a good zinc paint that you can get at Ace Hardware, but it will rust anyway. It will never be as good as a good used tank that will meet your needs with the gear you currently have.
 

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