Cutting a steel tank

[txgoose]

The valve is rusted in place, however shouldn't you have insured the tank was drained first. You can remove a valve from a pressurized tank, but it gets real ugly when they separate.
Bob

I don't disagree with the general premise of your question. My main thoughts at the time were that with the cheater bar and wrench and my kneeling by the tank, no part of my body was above the valve. I'm not saying that it is a flawless plan, but that was my thinking. My biggest fear was grit shot out at high speed if/when the seal broke. Even in a small amount, I assume a quick sand blasting hurts plenty. I will admit that my heavy shirt wouldn't stop a whole lot. Glasses were at least worn. I toyed with weighing it, but unless it were to be full, I'm not sure I could gain the granularity to recognize the weight of the air on a smallish LP tank.

Putting my hand and a drill over the top of the valve is what brought me back here. The threat seems a bit more linearly directed towards my body parts.

 

[Mike1967]

If there's no pressure in it and it is just rusted in, heat the neck up with an oxy torch. That'll free it up.

Edit: do it with the valve open!

 

[MaxBottomtime]

Or take it outside and knock the valve off.

 

[Mike1967]

Or take it outside and knock the valve off.

Lol

 

[Bob DBF]

Has the burst disc been removed? At the end opposite the j-valve, does the opening go all the way to the valve seat? If so the tank should be empty. With an awl or peice of wire you can determine if the path is open to the HP side of the valve.


Bob

 

[Coztick]

If there's no pressure in it and it is just rusted in, heat the neck up with an oxy torch. That'll free it up.

Edit: do it with the valve open!

+1
Even a cheap plumbers propane torch should do it.
Cool the valve with ice prior to heating the neck where the threads are as quickly as you can.
Should loosen off easier.

 

[txgoose]

If there's no pressure in it and it is just rusted in, heat the neck up with an oxy torch. That'll free it up.

Edit: do it with the valve open!

I believe that it is no longer a valve per-se. More of a valve body. That was my follow up question.

As for knocking the valve out of it, I could probably rig up a guillotine of some sort.

 

[txgoose]

Has the burst disc been removed? At the end opposite the j-valve, does the opening go all the way to the valve seat? If so the tank should be empty. With an awl or peice of wire you can determine if the path is open to the HP side of the valve.
Bob

The plug is out and I can shine light into the J valve side. Through the hole where the burst disc would sit.

 

[Bob DBF]

Sounds good. If you don't need the threads you could just cut off the valve.


Bob

 

[txgoose]

Thank you, sir!