Corrosion on threads?

[oldschoolto]

Well , There is putting a $hit load of lube and then there is putting a near non visible coating of lube to protect and stop galling of the threads... MOST PEOPLE use way to much lube....

Jim...

 

[halocline]

Those threads don't look that bad to me. It looks like salt, but it could be mostly dried lube, like old Christolube. Sometimes that stuff kind of clumps and it can look like salt crystals. It's hard to tell for sure in the photo. The stuff laying around on the table sure looks like salt. Those are unprotected threads, meaning there's no o-ring keeping water from seeping in the threads during use and drying. Any salt (or mineral) content in the water will leave deposits and eventually cause some corrosion. But since those threads are not sealing anything, it takes a lot more damage to cause a problem. A little loss of chrome on those threads is no big deal at all. Some springs and quarries have a high mineral content and I've seen some deposits on my regs after regular use in those environments. It's nothing like salt water use, though.

If the shop told you that this regulator was not repairable due to the deposits on these threads, they're either being dishonest or they're very ignorant. Since you're in FT worth, I wouldn't mind knowing what shop told you this. You can either post it here or send a PM if you don't want to publicly post the name.

The advice to bring it to a certified tech at an authorized dealer is a little humorous in this case because, unless I'm missing something, that's exactly where the problem originated!

 

[redacted]

it is important on things like user adjustment knobs where they are intended to be turned. Your hose connectors are not and because they are not in a "sealed" environment like say the other side of the hoses, there is potential for liquid and particulates to get in there and be held by the lubricant. Water will get "sucked in" when under pressure because the threads are full of air, and when it tries to expand, it may move the lubricant around and cause some of it to get trapped back there.

If you read the manuals from manufacturers like Apeks who are obsessed with lubricating damned near everything, you do not see recommendations for lubricating those threads and I have never seen a technician recommend it. Same reason we don't lubricate the DIN threads on the regulators. Not a good idea

Yes, I looked at both Scubapro and Aleks manuals and neither addressed lubing threads. That is they said nothing about lubing the user adjuster threads or not lubing yoke screw or din wheel threads. NOTHING. I guess that makes sense since they are talking about new gear that requires tech service every year or two. With new chrome plating and a good rinse after diving, those connections should do OK until they are brought in for the next authorized service. And, if there is a problem, the tech can charge extra do to poor user care. What is the down side?

I have been lubing those threads (and soaking my regs after SW dives) for 20 years now with no problem going 5+ years between service even with very old regs that are missing a fair bit of chrome. I think I will continue to take Harlow's advice and avoid shop techs.

 

[dumpsterDiver]

If that is a hose thread then it is behind an oring and should be protected from water??

 

[pepperbelly]

Those threads are on the second stage.

 

[dumpsterDiver]

Oh then they get wet. I always grease them.

 

[pepperbelly]

Oh then they get wet. I always grease them.

But does that look like threads from a reg that was serviced less than 12 dives ago- all in fresh water?

 

[tbone1004]

But does that look like threads from a reg that was serviced less than 12 dives ago- all in fresh water?

That looks like the threads I am used to seeing on regs that I purchase used and haven't been serviced in 5-6 years that came out of salt water environments.... I don't have that type of deposit on my regs that have been on several hundred dives and haven't been serviced in 3 years. Granted all freshwater, but it's caves which are high mineral content, and they're usually in the water for an average of 2-3 hours/dive

 

[pepperbelly]

Thanks tbone. That is why I am less than happy with the shop I bought them from.

 

[tbone1004]

@pepperbelly meet real salt deposits and corrosion. I inherited these regs a few months ago. They haven't been serviced since their last trip which was to the Doria in ~2011? Had been probably 4 years of regular diving in fresh and salt water before that, and they obviously weren't rinsed properly after the Doria. The black plastic bit is the equivalent thread to your issue though is on a Poseidon so isn't metal. The hose connection is similar though. This is a lubricated thread because of the plastic and differential heating/cooling and because it's metal on plastic which needs some help. You can see the same type of salt deposits on the last thread. This will come off in about 5 minutes in the ultrasonic with some vinegar. I usually do a presoak in hot water for 20-30 minutes *hot being temperature out of the coffee pot or tea kettle*, then into the ultrasonic with 50:50 ratio of white vinegar. Comes right off. This should be removed during service

This is the SPG from said reg set which obviously has a broken temp gauge since it's only 65 outside, but you can see salt deposits and some nice green oxidation from the chrome. This will also come right off with the same treatment, though may be a bit stubborn. This is not normally taken care of during service since the hose connections and SPG's don't get the ultrasonic treatment.