Corrosion on threads?

[Fossil_Diver]

Lick it. You'll know if it's salt. That stuff is pretty common on regs but shiuld have been cleaned up during service. I would have to wonder if they even disassembled it or opened it up.

 

[redacted]

Those threads do not look bad at all. Clearly some lube and a bit of white stuff, green stuff, and some chrome loss. Yes, enough cleaning would remove the white and green stuff, but it would also take its toll on the chrome plating. I often leave a bit of such stuff on my own regs to give the chrome a brake. And I give them plenty of lube to mitigate future problems. Maybe your first shop did not do that bad of a job. I think somebody is trying to sell you a new set unnecessarily. I like the idea of taking them down to Scubatoys to see what they can do. An Oceanic octo should make that a perfectly usable set. It is nice to stay with one brand name as some shops will only service brands they carry.

A good coat of lube on those threads protects everything; chrome, brass, verdegis and salt deposits.

 

[pepperbelly]

Lick it. You'll know if it's salt. That stuff is pretty common on regs but shiuld have been cleaned up during service. I would have to wonder if they even disassembled it or opened it up.

That is what I wonder also.

 

[tbone1004]

I wouldn't lick it since there could be lube on the threads. Those threads aren't supposed to be lubed anyway, and it definitely looks like salt. Go back to the lds that supposedly serviced it and see if they will make it right

 

[pepperbelly]

I wouldn't lick it since there could be lube on the threads. Those threads aren't supposed to be lubed anyway, and it definitely looks like salt. Go back to the lds that supposedly serviced it and see if they will make it right

I talked to the owner's wife this afternoon. I will report what they decide to do- or not do.

And no- I won't be licking it. I really am not as dumb as I look.

 

[redacted]

That is what I wonder also.

I wouldn't lick it since there could be lube on the threads. Those threads aren't supposed to be lubed anyway, and it definitely looks like salt. Go back to the lds that supposedly serviced it and see if they will make it right

Excess lube tends to just wash off so seeing that much suggests it has not been there for too long. I can't imagine why you would not lube any unprotected threaded connection other than those that may pick up and hold sand and grit.

 

[tbone1004]

Excess lube tends to just wash off so seeing that much suggests it has not been there for too long. I can't imagine why you would not lube any unprotected threaded connection other than those that may pick up and hold sand and grit.

I've yet to see any manuals call for that thread to be lubed. no reason to since it isn't under any real torque and you don't want sand/salt to get in there and be held. If you lube those threads, and salt gets in behind the lube, it may not rinse out so it's best to leave it dry and not risk it

 

[redacted]

I've yet to see any manuals call for that thread to be lubed. no reason to since it isn't under any real torque and you don't want sand/salt to get in there and be held. If you lube those threads, and salt gets in behind the lube, it may not rinse out so it's best to leave it dry and not risk it

Harlow, on PG 86, say some mfgrs recommend it and others don't mention it. He says metal user adjstment knobs need lube and suggests most metal to metal threads will benefit. I have spent many hours attempting to disassemble seized threads on some of my finds. I now lube them all and have no problems disassembling my regs when necessary. Water does not get to metal that has a light coat of lube until the lube is eventually washed off. I believe the water trapping problem you cite is related to packed ambient chambers on piston 1st stages.

 

[dumpsterDiver]

I've come to the same conclusion. With any threaded metal to metal contact in a marine environment, i am going to try to lube the threads well. I don't have any regulator manuals to read anyway.

 

[tbone1004]

Harlow, on PG 86, say some mfgrs recommend it and others don't mention it. He says metal user adjstment knobs need lube and suggests most metal to metal threads will benefit. I have spent many hours attempting to disassemble seized threads on some of my finds. I now lube them all and have no problems disassembling my regs when necessary. Water does not get to metal that has a light coat of lube until the lube is eventually washed off. I believe the water trapping problem you cite is related to packed ambient chambers on piston 1st stages.

it is important on things like user adjustment knobs where they are intended to be turned. Your hose connectors are not and because they are not in a "sealed" environment like say the other side of the hoses, there is potential for liquid and particulates to get in there and be held by the lubricant. Water will get "sucked in" when under pressure because the threads are full of air, and when it tries to expand, it may move the lubricant around and cause some of it to get trapped back there.

If you read the manuals from manufacturers like Apeks who are obsessed with lubricating damned near everything, you do not see recommendations for lubricating those threads and I have never seen a technician recommend it. Same reason we don't lubricate the DIN threads on the regulators. Not a good idea