Control options for compressors with single phase & 3 phase AC electric motors.

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PBcatfish

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We recently had some serious hijacking of the thread "Bauer Capitano II 480V 3 Phase to 240V Single Phase Help". We started going pretty deep down the rabbit hole of drives, phase inverters, soft starts and even PLCs. Somehow we missed the repeat cycle timers that are used to operate the automated condensate drains on the smaller Bauers. I'm starting a new thread here in hopes of putting this kind of useful information in a centralized location that can be found by browsing thread titles. I'm going to start with a few general assertions of mine & then let others fill in the holes in what I have posted. On the other thread, we had some robust sharing of information. Hopefully, that will continue.

My opening assertions are as follows:

Compressors tend to put a heavy load on an electric motor & the controls need to be up to snuff.

The most basic legitimate motor control is a manual motor starter, but sometimes people cheat & just use a panel breaker.

The second most basic motor control is a magnetic motor starter, which is basically comprised of a big relay that is called a contactor & a safety device that is called a thermal overload relay. On old nema type overload relays, you had to change "heaters" to change the set point for the over current trip. Modern IEC type overload relays usually have a dial that lets you make adjustments within a certain range of amps.

A more sophisticated type of motor control is called a variable frequency drive. These allow gentle starts, gentle stops, speed control & torque control, among other things. These are programmable. There are several different ways to control them. The really simple ones often have a speed dial & start/stop switches on the front panel. Some of these can take in single phase power & put out three phase power. Many can power a motor that runs on a lower voltage than the supply voltage. Some can power motors that run at higher than supply voltage, sometimes at full rated HP, most often at reduced HP. Very few can put out single phase power. The abilities of individual drives vary a lot. For running compressors, we are usually looking at some of the cheapest ones.

Three phase motors tend to give better performance & cheaper operation when three phase power is available. Unfortunately, sometimes we only have 1ph available.

When you need to make a 3 phase compressor run on a single phase, you have several options. They include:
Change the motor & rewire the control box
Install a Variable Frequency Drive that supports single phase primary power.
Install a static phase inverter
Install a rotary phase inverter
Each option has some advantages & disadvantages.

The automatic blow down version of a small compressor usually has a repeat cycle timer in it to control when the water gets blown out of the system. They are usually adjustable.

More complex systems, may have a Programmable Logic Controller installed in them. This allows many different inputs from things like temperature sensors, CO sensors, pressure transducers, over voltage and under voltage sensors, into a single control device. It also may provide messages about things like timing out maintenance intervals, or expected time to set pressure, via an operator interface panel. These devices are all programmable, but often programming is beyond the abilities of the end user who will operate the device.

I'm going to ask that we try something a little different than usual here, in the interest of concentrating useful information as much as possible. I'm going to ask that those who are experienced with controls, or who have done conversions before, please choose one of my assertions from above at a time & expound on it in as much detail as you are able. Please start by listing the assertion that you are commenting on. That way, if a person is looking for info on static phase inverters, they can just read all the replies that start with "static phase inverter".

Of course, if you see an important aspect of control systems that I failed to mention above, please do also chime in on that topic.

Of course, question from those who are looking for information are also encouraged.

Thanks,
the fish
 
I have done many three phase to single phase compressor motor swaps. That used to be the only method I knew. It is straightforward, order a new motor with the same shaft size and rpm. Change out the three phase contactor for one large enough to handle the increased amp draw of the new motor and size the wiring appropriately. Since most that I have done had 230v to 24v step down transformers for control, I didn't have to change any controls, just make sure the transformer fed from the two legs that are now hot. Sometimes you get lucky any it had an oversized contactor installed that is rated high enough for your new motor. If you are that lucky, you will have to bridge power through the unused third leg to keep from tripping the overload.
I have a 10hp rotophase at the house that I use for test running customer compressors and to run the mill and lathe. It works great, but it seems very large and costly for compressor duty.
The VFDs are new to me, I have worked on a few compressors with them, but I have not installed any yet.
 
What we really want to do is to run cheap used automatic EX fire station compressors
So that the people do not have to stand around going deaf with the piddly small stuff

From single phase!
 
What we really want to do is to run cheap used automatic EX fire station compressors
So that the people do not have to stand around going deaf with the piddly small stuff

From single phase!
That's an interesting suggestion. What advantages do you see from fire station compressors?
 
That's an interesting suggestion. What advantages do you see from fire station compressors?
They are well maintained, typically low hours. Typically have auto drains.
They aren't noisy cheap junk.
 
...The VFDs are new to me, I have worked on a few compressors with them, but I have not installed any yet.
Drive Installations

For a high load application, like a compressor, the biggest thing to consider when choosing a drive, is current capacity. Every time you over-voltage or over-current a drive, you take a little chunk out of the stack of PN junctions in the output thyristors. It;s kind of like taking a hand ax & taking a swing at a 3' diameter oak tree. If you do it a few times, the tree will hardly notice. If you do it every day for a year, the tree will have problems. Choosing a drive with a high enough current capacity solves this problem. It's like exchanging the hand ax for a Nerf bat. If you upsize the HP rating by 1 or 2 sizes above the actual motor you want to run, then heavy start loads are generally tolerated much better.

As for setting them up, wiring for a simple application like this is usually pretty straight forward. You have ground, power coming in, 3 power wires to the motor, & then some control wires. Basic control wires for a compressor would likely be Start forward rotation, Stop, and some kind of speed signal. Stop is normally closed and opens to activate. Every other switch signal is generally normally open and closes to activate. The speed signal can come from a knob on the front of the drive, if it has one. It can also come from something as simple as a switch or jumper that selects a preprogrammed speed (like 60hz). Programming for simple applications like singe speed running with a few seconds of acceleration time, often only requires that you enter some data off of the motor name plate. You usually need to enter things like nameplate RPM or number of motor poles, nameplate voltage, nameplate amps, service factor, & Hz. Some drives have an auto tuning function that self sets several parameters. Default settings for the complex options have a pretty good chance of working with a compressor. Most drives have a long list of available programming options, but this is not a complex application & most of that can probably be ignored. Usually programming can be done from a keypad on the front of the drive. Often there is another option to plug in a computer, but that is not necessary unless you are doing a lot of drives or setting up complex variables. If you don't like the way that the motor squeals, when it runs off the drive, you may want to change the carrier frequency to something above the range of human hearing, like 26k. This often has a slight detrimental effect on motor torque, but that difference is generally small & the noise difference is usually noticeable. Some animals hear 26k, but almost no people can. Tuning this high pitched noise can also be a way to keep critters away from the shop.
 
They are well maintained, typically low hours. Typically have auto drains.
They aren't noisy cheap junk.
So then, how does one usually go about finding one?
 
So then, how does one usually go about finding one?
I buy about 10-20 of them per year. I tend to get dibs on units that I maintain for them. I also buy some from government auctions, but those often draw more than the unit would bring on the open market and you are always buying a complete unknown. Fire departments often decommission a unit and then leave it sit for years before selling it. They don't drain anything, they don't fog anything. In the north, you will almost always have cracked separators and drain blocks from freezing. Many times you will need an entire final stage due to rust. It is still a good unit to buy and repair, but you have to buy them guessing they will need everything.
 
So then, how does one usually go about finding one?
And sometimes you get a surprise. I bought two last month and neither had auto drains. Very weird to find in a fire house, but it can happen.
 
Auto Drains

Auto Drains seem to be pretty highly sought after. They provide a nice feature, but they tend to be rather pricey. Now that I am starting to learn about how breathing air filtration works, I have another concern, other than purchase price.

I have looked at a couple of small Bauer units recently that had auto drains and automatic pressure shut off switches. When the final pressure set point is reached on these two units, the compressor shuts off, which is all fine & good, but the unloader valves also open & dump the pressure out of the filtration system. Is this not bad for the filter cartridges? Does this not defeat the very purpose of the pressure maintaining valve? Does this not seriously decrease the usable lifespan of the molecular sieve in the filter cartridge?
 
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