Bauer Capitano 3 phase to single phase conversion

[tbone1004]

Thank you for the information. I actually spoke to wolf automation and ordered a VFD from them. Everyone convinced me it was the best way to go. The only question I have is about controls. Will the VFD effect my controls at all?

I'm going to say it shouldn't. Without seeing the specifics of your wiring diagrams I can't confirm that for sure. You will have to look at the box and preferably a diagram if it is available to see. There were so many variants of these that it is almost impossible to say for sure. In an ideal world the control system is only tapping onto 1 or 2 of the phases and wants either 120vac or 240vac input *208 on 3p, but 200ish volts, for controls they aren't too picky*. If that's the case then the VFD goes after the main power switch and the only thing on the output is the motor. If for whatever reason they used all 3 phases for the controls then you have to put it where the 3p plug was. Most of the controls don't care about frequency and you're only using it for soft start and stop so they'll get 60hz all the time anyway, but it is technically best practice to only have a motor on the output side of the VFD and all controls before hand.

If you have the wiring diagram then please post it, if not, please take some good pictures of the inside of the electrical box and we can try to back through it

 

[Morgan00]

I'm going to say it shouldn't. Without seeing the specifics of your wiring diagrams I can't confirm that for sure. You will have to look at the box and preferably a diagram if it is available to see. There were so many variants of these that it is almost impossible to say for sure. In an ideal world the control system is only tapping onto 1 or 2 of the phases and wants either 120vac or 240vac input *208 on 3p, but 200ish volts, for controls they aren't too picky*. If that's the case then the VFD goes after the main power switch and the only thing on the output is the motor. If for whatever reason they used all 3 phases for the controls then you have to put it where the 3p plug was. Most of the controls don't care about frequency and you're only using it for soft start and stop so they'll get 60hz all the time anyway, but it is technically best practice to only have a motor on the output side of the VFD and all controls before hand.

If you have the wiring diagram then please post it, if not, please take some good pictures of the inside of the electrical box and we can try to back through it

I have the requested wiring diagram along with the legend and the title block. Not sure if the last 2 are really relevant but for completeness sake I included them. Also the title block says that it is sheet 1 of 2 but I do not have a 2nd sheet. It also appears that the control voltage is 115 and it is being pulled off of L1 and L2

 

[tbone1004]

@Morgan00 so based on that you will have a little bit of adjustment to wiring, but not really. It will largely have to do with how the L1/L2/L3 disconnect is sorted. Looks like the controls are 120vac but there is a transformer to take it off of ~240v so you won't have an issue with controls.
What is weird is if you look just to the right of where the control taps are you see what looks like the symbol for a capacitor but also seems to have 1m which is indicated as motor starter. The VFD is going to replace the motor starter or capacitors, whichever it actually is, so the output will still go to the 3 wires on the motor *it should be noted that you should start the motor without the belt on for the first time as it may be wired to go backwards. It's not a big deal, just swap any two wires and it will go forwards again but it's a weird thing with 3-phase motors. You should be sorted with following l1/2/3 in that order but you never really know for sure until you turn it on.

What is not shown on that diagram is what is actually turning the motor on and off so you'll have to find that wire and the e-stop to fully use the VFD properly but it can take a simple start signal and it will run when it sees it and not when it isn't there

 

[Morgan00]

@Morgan00 so based on that you will have a little bit of adjustment to wiring, but not really. It will largely have to do with how the L1/L2/L3 disconnect is sorted. Looks like the controls are 120vac but there is a transformer to take it off of ~240v so you won't have an issue with controls.
What is weird is if you look just to the right of where the control taps are you see what looks like the symbol for a capacitor but also seems to have 1m which is indicated as motor starter. The VFD is going to replace the motor starter or capacitors, whichever it actually is, so the output will still go to the 3 wires on the motor *it should be noted that you should start the motor without the belt on for the first time as it may be wired to go backwards. It's not a big deal, just swap any two wires and it will go forwards again but it's a weird thing with 3-phase motors. You should be sorted with following l1/2/3 in that order but you never really know for sure until you turn it on.

What is not shown on that diagram is what is actually turning the motor on and off so you'll have to find that wire and the e-stop to fully use the VFD properly but it can take a simple start signal and it will run when it sees it and not when it isn't there

I believe that it does have a motor starter. I don’t see any capacitors in the control box. I put some photos with this post so that if im wrong you can correct me.

 

[tbone1004]

@Morgan00 yeah so the module labeled 1m is going to be what the VFD replaces. The easiest way to splice it in is probably with a DIN rail terminal blocks. Put the terminal blocks where the starter is and then run wires from the VFD to the terminal blocks. Will need 6 terminals for reference. L1/L2/Signal input, L1/L2/L3 output. Ground will be a new wire to the terminal block which looks like there is a space.

What is interesting is that the motor starter looks like a contactor so it's not really a starter. The wiring diagram you posted does not show where it is getting its signal wire to pull in. That signal wire is going to have to go to the VFD as its on/off signal.

 

[MarkA]

@Morgan00 yeah so the module labeled 1m is going to be what the VFD replaces. The easiest way to splice it in is probably with a DIN rail terminal blocks. Put the terminal blocks where the starter is and then run wires from the VFD to the terminal blocks. Will need 6 terminals for reference. L1/L2/Signal input, L1/L2/L3 output. Ground will be a new wire to the terminal block which looks like there is a space.

What is interesting is that the motor starter looks like a contactor so it's not really a starter. The wiring diagram you posted does not show where it is getting its signal wire to pull in. That signal wire is going to have to go to the VFD as its on/off signal.

The coil for contactor 1M is shown on line 9 of the drawing.
The illuminated on/off rotary switch is shown on line 6 (light line 4)

If I can read the terminal block numbers correctly? 2nd and 3rd terminals down (are they labeled 1 and 3?). There is a solid link between them. This would assume there is no emergency stop shown on line 5. Is there a physical emergency stop button?

There appears to be no 3 phase cables coming into the box. Maybe they were originally connected to the top of 1M contactor? The cables to the fuses can be seen connected to the 1M contactor.

The drawing and the photo shows a timer (1TMR line 13) for the drain solenoids (1SV line 15). Don't see anything connected to terminal 14 in the photo.

Little baffled why there is only 2 cut wires connected to the overload.

Edit. As the motor is not connected to the control box. Did the fire department have its own control box and this one was not used?

 

[Morgan00]

The coil for contactor 1M is shown on line 9 of the drawing.
The illuminated on/off rotary switch is shown on line 6 (light line 4)

If I can read the terminal block numbers correctly? 2nd and 3rd terminals down (are they labeled 1 and 3?). There is a solid link between them. This would assume there is no emergency stop shown on line 5. Is there a physical emergency stop button?

There appears to be no 3 phase cables coming into the box. Maybe they were originally connected to the top of 1M contactor? The cables to the fuses can be seen connected to the 1M contactor.

The drawing and the photo shows a timer (1TMR line 13) for the drain solenoids (1SV line 15). Don't see anything connected to terminal 14 in the photo.

Little baffled why there is only 2 cut wires connected to the overload.

Edit. As the motor is not connected to the control box. Did the fire department have its own control box and this one was not used?

1) There is no emergency stop button, just the on/off switch and reset buttons.
2) I'm a little confused about the question of 3 phase wires coming into the box. There are no 3 phase wires coming into the box because I haven't wired them in from the VFD. I am waiting to do that until I get my control wiring sorted.
3) There is no automatic drain, I plan to add this in later but for now it is manually drained.
4) I was also baffled that there were only 2 cut wires connected to the overload but the motor side whip had 3 hots and a ground which were all cut.

 

[Morgan00]

@Morgan00 yeah so the module labeled 1m is going to be what the VFD replaces. The easiest way to splice it in is probably with a DIN rail terminal blocks. Put the terminal blocks where the starter is and then run wires from the VFD to the terminal blocks. Will need 6 terminals for reference. L1/L2/Signal input, L1/L2/L3 output. Ground will be a new wire to the terminal block which looks like there is a space.

What is interesting is that the motor starter looks like a contactor so it's not really a starter. The wiring diagram you posted does not show where it is getting its signal wire to pull in. That signal wire is going to have to go to the VFD as its on/off signal.

So just to clarify, the VFD can not be wired into the line side of the contactor? I understand why I would want to eliminate a failure point but is there another reason also? Could I use the terminal block that is already there?

 

[tbone1004]

So just to clarify, the VFD can not be wired into the line side of the contactor? I understand why I would want to eliminate a failure point but is there another reason also? Could I use the terminal block that is already there?

The VFD and the contactor are performing the same function so having them in-line with each other is going to cause problems. If the contactor and VFD use the same start signals then the vfd won't even wake up until it's supposed to be running. The VFD also performs soft-stop functions and if you just cut power to it it will hard stop which will damage the VFD since you're basically pulling the plug. Very bad idea, must remove the contactor
You can use the terminal block so long as it is rated for the current and the wires physically fit.
One thing of note that I forgot to mention is you will probably have to increase the wire size for L1 and L2. You are effectively doubling the current, so the motor is rated for ~12a probably in 3-phase, and by going to split-phase you'll be running somewhere in the low 20's or so so you'll need to make sure the 2 wires that you are connecting from the wall all the way thru the VFD at least 10awg. I wouldn't really prioritize going any larger than 10awg, but definitely 10awg as a minimum.

 

[Morgan00]

The VFD and the contactor are performing the same function so having them in-line with each other is going to cause problems. If the contactor and VFD use the same start signals then the vfd won't even wake up until it's supposed to be running. The VFD also performs soft-stop functions and if you just cut power to it it will hard stop which will damage the VFD since you're basically pulling the plug. Very bad idea, must remove the contactor
You can use the terminal block so long as it is rated for the current and the wires physically fit.
One thing of note that I forgot to mention is you will probably have to increase the wire size for L1 and L2. You are effectively doubling the current, so the motor is rated for ~12a probably in 3-phase, and by going to split-phase you'll be running somewhere in the low 20's or so so you'll need to make sure the 2 wires that you are connecting from the wall all the way thru the VFD at least 10awg. I wouldn't really prioritize going any larger than 10awg, but definitely 10awg as a minimum.

Okay, that makes sense. I have 10awg wire on hand for this purpose. I will need to see if my wires will fit in the terminal block that is there and determine if there is enough room or I will need to get my hands on another terminal block before I can make any further progress it seems. If I am going to use the VFD as I should then I will need to eliminate my on/off switch, the contactor, and the overload relay.