Buying Your Own Gear for the First time? What order??

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ElectricZombie once bubbled...
I would lose the snorkeling gear. I hate to snorkel, but that's just me. I would also lose the console...too big and sloppy.

I think he meant mask and fins, not just a snorkel. Are you going to dive with no mask and no fins on SCUBA? :D

My opinion is, get the equipment in order of how much it will affect you if it keeps changing on you(i.e. renting).

So,
1. Mask, fins, snorkel
2. Exposure suit (You have already said you have these two)
3. BC : the BC is going to make the most difference in terms of how you carry yourself underwater. Every model has different characteristics that takes getting used to, and the fit is very important to be comfortable.

Now the next depends on what you plan to do, and there are two cases, A and B.

Case A: You are going to rent and use a computer anyway if you don't have one.
Computers are good for recreational diving, as it's quite conventient and will let you make the most out of varying dive profiles. (Of course, you still need to use your brain and plan the dives.)
In this case, I would say get the computer next, since every computer will be different, and it will take a couple dives to comfortably make sense of what it's telling you. If you are renting, it will add to task loading when you are trying to figure out what it's saying. If you are getting the computer only, a wrist computer will work best.

Case B: You will use tables if you don't have a computer.
This will be much cheaper, but you might be a little constrained on some dives, as many other people will be on computers. Many tech divers on this board will push for this, but IMHO, for recreational diving a computer is real nice, although not essential. If this is what you want to do, then don't get a computer until you have everything else.

So, for the two cases:
Case A:
4. Computer
5. regulator/console
(If you get a wrist computer, then put only an SPG on it and get a wrist compass. This is what many people think work best. The other way is to combine 4,5 and put the computer in the console, or get a air integrated computer, which some other people prefer.)

Case B:
4. Regulator/console

Although a regulator is a very important piece of gear, if you rent at a reputable place, it will be pretty much the same. There may be differences, but it will not affect you as much as struggling with a poorly fitting BC, or puzzling over an unfamiliar computer (for case A, only).

Knives, lights are relatively much more affordable, so you can get them soon. It is good to have at least one cutting tool early on. EMT shears are pretty cheap and work really well.

The rest depends on what you plan to do. If you mostly travel to dive destinations, don't get the tank and weightbelt, but look into a travel bag. But it's quite possible that a good hard suitcase will work, for much less, and will be less of a target for thieves.

If you frequently dive locally, then it does make sense to get the weightbelt. Whether or not to get tanks will depend on how many dives you do. Compare the savings from getting just airfills instead of tank rentals, with the purchase cost of the tank plus annual visual inspections plus the quintennial hydros. If the dive store is a little out of the way, owning tanks, even if it's more expensive, may make sense, as you can make just one trip to get air fills instead of two visits, to rent and then return the tanks.

Another consideration.. If you are diving locally, a 7-person trip with all the dive gear and two tanks each, may require some significant cargo space in your vehicles.
 
ummm... guys... does he mean a total of seven or a total of eight?

"My family of seven (ages 13-43) and I"

I read that as a family of eight! That is a lot of gear to keep track of. Personally, I prefer wrist mount, but isn't tracking all of this stuff a huge pain? eg. eight wrist mounted compasses? If he goes console mount (which I understand is cheaper) and wants to go wrist mount later, then he can always break up the console later.

Also, do you really want to put knives in SterlingDiver kid's gear kit? I think we'd all suggest EMT shears and have his wife sew up pouches for them.

I'd also probably suggest that SterlingDiver consider safety accessories, such as safety sausages as a priority.
 
Thanks for the help, here is some clearifications:

There is seven in our family, sorry for the confusion.

By far most of our dives will be on travel trips to an ocean.

Snorkeling gear= Mask, fins, snorkel.

Interesting and helpful comments, I believe if I follow your advice I can avoid some "buyers regrets" later. Thank you.

SterlingDiver
 
Wow, I was beginning to think I was the only big family diver on the board. Last year we all (Me + 5 kids ages 14-21) certified in Maui. We have been diving locally (Monterey) since. My wife didn't certify (She grew up in SE Idaho and has a phobia about putting her face under water, she also mumbles something about entering the food chain....).

Anyway, with money being an issue, we have been slowly getting our gear. Here is the order we purchased, what's next, and why.

1) Masks, Fins, Boots and Gloves -- we dive in monterey so need the cold water protection and this isn't readily rentable.
2) BCs - wanted to work on bouyancy and trim which is tough to do when you rent a different BC everytime. I also got a great deal on back inflate Oceanic Tour's through LeisurePro. I ordered one, tried it out, then ordered more.
3) Lead - a DIY project -- same comment about bouyancy & trim
4) Wetsuits for Dad and older kids that are done growing. We rent for the ones that are still growing.
5) SS Shears ($2.95 each at Kitchen Supply) and Knives ($0.98 at walmart - tip scored and broken off -- See DIY forum)
6) Spring Straps - latest DIY project -- Gotta see if they are as good as everyone on this board seems to think. Am putting a set on my quatros. If I like 'em I will put them on my kids Aeris Velocities.

With this gear I am only renting Regs and Tanks ($20 a person per rental day in Monterey).

Remaining gear yet to be purchased

6) Wrist mount bottom timers -- $19 Timex watches have been working fine, but I want something that gives me more info. Diving with my kids, we stay shallow (generally under 40fsw never deeper than 60fsw, and never get anywhere close to the NDLs) so computer is overkill for us. Planning on UWTech digitals but looking at the Timex DM. Probably will only buy one to start, as the cheap watches are actually adequate for our purposes.

7) Lights -- probably Christmas presents. I have been reading threads about their usefulness keeping track of buddy while diving during the day.

8) Regs, Wrist mount compass and SPG -- My LDS rents high quality regs (Scubapro). They sell their rentals every year (probably for more than they paid for them). If I was travelling and renting from unknown stores I would likely move this priority up.

Things I don't plan on buying for a long time (if ever)

Dive bag -- Will use Suit cases and duffels when I travel, rubbermaid tubs work very well for local diving

Computer -- Plan your dive, dive your plan, don't push the NDLs.

Tanks -- Can't travel with them - especially with a big family. Locally tank rentals are $5, fills are $4. Only reason I would do this would be if I wanted tanks that I can't rent (ie HP120's or similar).

Three money saving tips,

1) check out the online stores (ie Leisurepro, scubatoys, scubastore, etc). They have great prices which has saved me serious $$$.

2) Here is a great reusable dive camera. Great for quick snaps of the family or cool marine life.
SnapSights . But... be careful with the camera -- Your first duty is to your buddy. If the camera is a distraction, don't take it.

3) Lastly, give scuba presents for Christmas and Birthdays.

One more thought on buying online. You will see numerous threads on the board about the evils of buying online. Here is how I handle it. I do buy some items from my LDS (Local Dive Shop - I went to school in the Rocky Mtns and had a good laugh the first time I saw this abreviation as I was used to it meaning something significantly different) but I buy most everything online. However I never try items on at the LDS. Instead I buy one of what I want online. Try it out, make sure it fits, works etc. If I don't like it I return it, if I like it I buy more. Having everyone in the same rig actually adds a safety factor. Online prices are frequently 1/2 of retail.

Anyway, sorry for the long post. I just wanted to let you know that you're not the only big family on the board (however, we are definately in the minority). So take your time, watch for deals, buy quality, don't waste your money on stuff you don't need or will later replace.

Best of Luck
RJ
 
rjens once bubbled...
I have been reading threads about their usefulness keeping track of buddy while diving during the day.

This probably won't work if you are diving shallow during the day. Even with HID canister lights that are $$$$$$$$$$$$$, you need to pay close attention with a 10W (~30W halogen/xenon equivalent) light. If you still want to try it, then look for a bright light with a tight beam. UK SL4 or SL6 may work. They are good lights anyway, so maybe you can buy 1 and see how you like it. :wink:

Also, keeping track of buddies using lights take some practice and good awareness.

But even if not for communication, a small light is really nice for looking inside nooks and crannies. I always carry one during dives. If you want a really compact light for this purpose, look at the Ikelite PCa Lite. Very compact, very bright. Short burn time(~1.5hr?), but if you only use it to look into holes, a set of batteries will last a long time.
 
paulwlee, I have it narrowed down to either a Princeton Tec "Surge" or an IkeLite PCa Lite. From the threads I have seen they are both good bright lights. Do you have a preference?

RJ
 
You can probably get away with using any luggage that's large enough if you already have some, though wheels are very desirable. If you need to buy, I recommend getting a regular bag for travel rather than something that screams dive gear. This is something you don't want to advertise for theft reasons, or to any airlines that have a sudden urge to charge extra for dive gear even when you've got the same amount of luggage as everyone else - just less clothes. I don't think a specialized dive travel bag has much if anything to offer for travel over regular luggage and usually costs more.

We've tried packing our gear in both hard and soft bags and find soft to work out better. We used to use large hardsided luggage with wheels but moved to heavy duty wheeled duffles with just a hard bottom that wrapped up around the wheel end a bit.

When the hardsided luggage was stuffed with gear, occasionally not quite dry, it tended to deteriorate and got much more beat up by baggage handling (broken wheels, cracks, smashed corners, never mind the gorilla-type ads. The company actually fixed or replaced the bags for us a couple times but that got old.)

I got duffles for our first liveaboard where hard sided bags are a storage problem. But they have other advantages. They should be cheaper. A soft bag weighs less than hard, which is a good thing because of weight restrictions on some flights. You might assume that hard sided offers more protection, but I carry on reg/mask/computer and have never had trouble with everything else in a carefully packed duffle. They were pretty inexpensive on sale at a sporting goods store and they've worked great for years. We just made sure to get ones where the fins can lie flat on the bottom.

We use luggage straps on either kind. It's a minor pain if bags are searched but worth it. For the duffles I find it helps prevent shifting and makes them easier to manage when traveling. For hardsided, we used them because we were always afraid one would pop open.

A lightweight mesh bag to use at your destination is very useful and doesn't have to cost much. You can find a variety that are sturdy enough but don't take too much space to pack.
 
I came over here to ask this exact question! I enjoyed reading through the posts. They were very helpful.

On my last three dives, the rental equipment had significant air leaks. (Twice, around where the hose is attached to the BC.) The divemaster didn't seem concerned, but it irked me that I not only lost bottom time, but my Dive Buddy as well. It also made me really want my own gear, in spite of the hassel of carting it around.

L2
 
Wow! Some wonderful ideas. I guess I know what everyone in my family is getting for Christmas.

RJen; LDS definitely means something different out here. Keep working on getting your wife in the water, you may want try warm and exotic to get her there. My SO was slow to get involved for similar reasons but is now dive crazy. It makes for wonderful times together.

Thanks again to everyone.

SterlingDiver
 
rjens once bubbled...
paulwlee, I have it narrowed down to either a Princeton Tec "Surge" or an IkeLite PCa Lite. From the threads I have seen they are both good bright lights. Do you have a preference?

RJ

I've never used a Surge, but from what I could see while playing with it at the dive store, seems like a nice solid light. Another small light that can be used for the same purpose would be a Princeton Tec Tec40. It takes 4 AA batteries, so I think it's a little less brighter, but plenty for looking in holes.

I have a Ikelite PCa Lite, Princeton Tec Tec40, UK Q40(?) for small lights. They are all great lights. The PCa Lite in particular, I've been using for 9 years, and it's been working great. You can use these small lights as backup lights, too, if you do night diving.

I think you should visit the dive store and play with what they have, to develop a personal preference. One thing I think is important for a 'nook-and-crannie' light, is that you should have some way of keeping it out of the way when not in use. Small/slim enough to unobtrusively fit in the BC pocket (with a lanyard or something to prevent loss) or banded to the webbing, etc. Carrying it in your hand or dangling it from the BC is a bad idea, as it will always get in the way and get banged up, not to mention the fact that it's much easier for you to lose it that way.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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