Thank you so much!Very important: did you test the lever height when the regulator was pressurized? The lever height will drop when the regulator is pressurized, so you have to test it under pressure.
If you tested it when it was pressurized and the lever is that high, You could lower the lever by a couple of millimeter, but if it is not free-flowing out of the water, it is not going to make much difference.
You have to be careful when you lower the lever. You cannot just rotate the nut. you have to hold the seat carrier and keep it from rotating. To hold the seat carrier from rotating, there is a slot on the seat carrier. You can see the slot right in the middle of the nut.
There is a special tool that has a screw diver in the center and hex nut driver around it, that makes this adjustment extremely easy, but it can easily be done with a small screw driver and an open end 1/4" nut driver.
Lever Height Adjuster for Aqualung Conshelf Second Stage
This tool comprises of 2 components and is ideal for lever height adjustment for Aqualung Conshelf second stage. The aluminium part of the tool is machined with a 1/4" nut driver at the end, therefore it can be inserted into the open port in order to: screw the lock nut onto the poppet and hold...scuba-clinic-tools.com
Aqua Lung Lever Height Adjusting Tool
Aqua Lung Lever Height Adjustment Tool Kit The Aqua Lung Lever Height Adjusting Tool Kit fits 21 earlier models of Aqua Lung® second stages. It replaces the original Aqua Lung tool assembly that incorporated a hollow shafted 1/4" nut driver and reground screwdriver.This tool features a custom...www.scubatools.com
If you use the small screwdriver to hold the seat from rotating and the open end 1/4 inch nut driver, just be careful and gentle. You do not want to allow the seat to rotate, but you also don't want to push hard on it.
It takes very little nut rotation to move the level end up and down.
Question Argonaut Kraken secondary leak adjustment
- Thread starter EberWolf
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
scrane
Contributor
From what you've said so far I'm not convinced there's anything wrong with your regulator (outside of the sticky DSV).
If you try to judge the breathing characteristics of the double hose compared to a single hose regulator you might be disappointed. There are big differences. Breathing effort can swing from heavy, to perfect, to the positive pressure that you're experiencing, depending on your attitude in the water. The reg WILL free flow as you're bobbing on the surface. The reg WILL try to force feed you air if you're in vertical trim. In a slightly head up horizontal trim breathing effort should be nominal.
Can you try diving again and get into the horizontal trim position and see how it breathes?
If you try to judge the breathing characteristics of the double hose compared to a single hose regulator you might be disappointed. There are big differences. Breathing effort can swing from heavy, to perfect, to the positive pressure that you're experiencing, depending on your attitude in the water. The reg WILL free flow as you're bobbing on the surface. The reg WILL try to force feed you air if you're in vertical trim. In a slightly head up horizontal trim breathing effort should be nominal.
Can you try diving again and get into the horizontal trim position and see how it breathes?
I should just run and hide. If the regulator is not free flowing out of the water and the IP is in the 130 psi range plus or minus 5 psi and the lever height is reasonable then perhaps ---perhaps---the two bleed ports on either side of the nozzle are fully blocked. Most of us, with a near singular exception 
, would normally have the two side bleed ports set up with one fully blocked and the other partially blocked by about half. With both bleed ports fully blocked the Venturi can be very aggressive and cause bypassing and free flowing.
Also the Kraken has this weird screw that can be seen on the body atop the LP end of the block. There are three little dots aside it as well. That screw controls the LP volcano orifice height. Wise people will set that screw exactly flush to the surrounding block and with the slot aligned with the block pointing at the center dot and never touch it again. Of course, do not turn that screw unless the lever is depressed as the LP seat will be cut. Once that screw is set flush, then adjust lever height and set them just proud of the can edge pressurized.
There is an awful lot of user error potential with a DH regulator. And additionally the DH regulator of any sort is not compatible with standard tech bent plates nor most jackets and BCs. They position the regulator much to high behind the head and much too far from the back and just will not work and no joy will ever be found in such cases. Every DH regulator should include a mentor to teach the end user how to use it properly. Tank position only effects trim for a SH diver, for a DH diver the tank position affects WOB and the tank must be set low enough that in the water that the center of the diaphragm is centered between the shoulder blades or even a little lower and the top of the can (with the pretty label on it that says Argonaut etc.) touching/rubbing your back or nearly so. It cannot be any other way or satisfaction will never be found.
, would normally have the two side bleed ports set up with one fully blocked and the other partially blocked by about half. With both bleed ports fully blocked the Venturi can be very aggressive and cause bypassing and free flowing.Also the Kraken has this weird screw that can be seen on the body atop the LP end of the block. There are three little dots aside it as well. That screw controls the LP volcano orifice height. Wise people will set that screw exactly flush to the surrounding block and with the slot aligned with the block pointing at the center dot and never touch it again. Of course, do not turn that screw unless the lever is depressed as the LP seat will be cut. Once that screw is set flush, then adjust lever height and set them just proud of the can edge pressurized.
There is an awful lot of user error potential with a DH regulator. And additionally the DH regulator of any sort is not compatible with standard tech bent plates nor most jackets and BCs. They position the regulator much to high behind the head and much too far from the back and just will not work and no joy will ever be found in such cases. Every DH regulator should include a mentor to teach the end user how to use it properly. Tank position only effects trim for a SH diver, for a DH diver the tank position affects WOB and the tank must be set low enough that in the water that the center of the diaphragm is centered between the shoulder blades or even a little lower and the top of the can (with the pretty label on it that says Argonaut etc.) touching/rubbing your back or nearly so. It cannot be any other way or satisfaction will never be found.
I should just run and hide. If the regulator is not free flowing out of the water and the IP is in the 130 psi range plus or minus 5 psi and the lever height is reasonable then perhaps ---perhaps---the two bleed ports on either side of the nozzle are fully blocked. Most of us, with a near singular exception
Also the Kraken has this weird screw that can be seen on the body atop the LP end of the block. There are three little dots aside it as well. That screw controls the LP volcano orifice height. Wise people will set that screw exactly flush to the surrounding block and with the slot aligned with the block pointing at the center dot and never touch it again. Of course, do not turn that screw unless the lever is depressed as the LP seat will be cut. Once that screw is set flush, then adjust lever height and set them just proud of the can edge pressurized.
There is an awful lot of user error potential with a DH regulator. And additionally the DH regulator of any sort is not compatible with standard tech bent plates nor most jackets and BCs. They position the regulator much to high behind the head and much too far from the back and just will not work and no joy will ever be found in such cases. Every DH regulator should include a mentor to teach the end user how to use it properly. Tank position only effects trim for a SH diver, for a DH diver the tank position affects WOB and the tank must be set low enough that in the water that the center of the diaphragm is centered between the shoulder blades or even a little lower and the top of the can (with the pretty label on it that says Argonaut etc.) touching/rubbing your back or nearly so. It cannot be any other way or satisfaction will never be found.
This discussion is about a stock regulator with the original flow diverter in the DSV and the original "D" rings locking the second stage, therefore @Nemrod comments that I highlighted in bold have absolutely no relevance to the discussion.
The specific upgrades (and adjustments) he is talking about, in that first paragraph, only applies to very few regulators, and I am starting to regret ever including him, by sharing these upgrades with him...
The rest of his rambling, well, it is just that...
This discussion is about a stock regulator with the original flow diverter in the DSV and the original "D" rings locking the second stage, therefore @Nemrod comments that I highlighted in bold have absolutely no relevance to the discussion.
The specific upgrades (and adjustments) he is talking about in that first paragraph, only applies to very few regulator, and I am starting to regret ever including him, by sharing these upgrades with him...
The rest of his rambling, well, it is just that...
I which case please do not. Welcome to my Ignored list
.
If You need one, I recommend getting an IP gauge that you add to inflator hose to check the Intermediate pressure if your reg is set up as such. You can monitor as you adjust the pressure going into your 2nd stage. DGX ( Dive Gear Express ) sells these for a reasonable price. A great tool to have on your bench. You can check this with ‘factory’ settings & adjust accordingly…. ( this may have nothing to do w/this thread, however a good tool addition )
scrane
Contributor
If @HJW (or anyone else) is not aware of it, there still exists a vast resource of information on Brian's website: Phoenix and Argonaut Specialty Area - Vintage Double Hose
Outside of the venturi adjustment, the Argonaut Kraken and the upgraded Phoenix are 95% functionally identical.
As years go by, we miss Brian's entrepreneurship and expertise more and more. His dedication, along with that of Herman and Luis, pretty much spared the Double Hose phenomenon from fading into obscurity years ago.
Outside of the venturi adjustment, the Argonaut Kraken and the upgraded Phoenix are 95% functionally identical.
As years go by, we miss Brian's entrepreneurship and expertise more and more. His dedication, along with that of Herman and Luis, pretty much spared the Double Hose phenomenon from fading into obscurity years ago.
October 8, 2022
Bryan Pennington - Vintage Double Hose
For those who haven't heard, Bryan passed away yesterday after a brief hospital stay. I have no other information at present. We worked together on several Sea Hunt Forever shows and he was one of the good ones. My thoughts and prayers to his family and friends.
Similar threads
