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Yes it will free flow while you are on the water surface as the can dips into the water. This is normal. Unless you can confirm the reg is free flowing on the beach, boat or bench, totally out of the water when you hook it to the tank, we're not getting anywhere.
There is an known issue where the standard 70 Duro (Shore A) o-rings have a tendency to bond to the walls of the DSV in storage despite being well lubricated… happened to my Kraken too!
The fix is to swap out the o-rings for softer 50 Duro ones.
Covered in part here along with exploded diagrams:
VDH DSV Leak by
then we are discussing a DSV issue. Are you sure it was fully open/ closed?scubaboard.com
THANK YOU
First of all get an Intermediate Pressure (IP) gauge and plug it into the BC hose.
IP should be ~135psi
Cycle a few times to see if it locks up crisply then leave it pressurised and check in 5 mins then 30 mins.
If your secondary is leaking and others connected are too it’s possible the IP is too high (easily adjusted) or there is damage or wear to the HP seat which allows the IP to leak and drift up to the point where the LP seat setting is overcome and vents. So the reg needs a full service, there are several posts on the VDH website on how to do this quite straightforward.
The Kraken generally uses modern Aqualung parts, if the HP seat needs replacing I strongly suggest only using the OEM Blue HP seat not the aftermarket Black Trident alternative.
Some more info in this thread:
Kraken Exploded Views and Parts List
As a follow-up to the 3D renderings on the thread 'So What is Everyone Doing to Pass Time' here's the final exploded view drawings which may help some current Kraken owners with service or modern-DH-curious divers out there! Part numbers taken from Argonaut Diagram Rev 8 27 July 2014. Please...
If you need seats, TSM has the blue AL seats. It is what I use…Very important: did you test the lever height when the regulator was pressurized? The lever height will drop when the regulator is pressurized, so you have to test it under pressure.
If you tested it when it was pressurized and the lever is that high, You could lower the lever by a couple of millimeter, but if it is not free-flowing out of the water, it is not going to make much difference.
You have to be careful when you lower the lever. You cannot just rotate the nut. you have to hold the seat carrier and keep it from rotating. To hold the seat carrier from rotating, there is a slot on the seat carrier. You can see the slot right in the middle of the nut.
There is a special tool that has a screw diver in the center and hex nut driver around it, that makes this adjustment extremely easy, but it can easily be done with a small screw driver and an open end 1/4" nut driver.
Lever Height Adjuster for Aqualung Conshelf Second Stage
This tool comprises of 2 components and is ideal for lever height adjustment for Aqualung Conshelf second stage. The aluminium part of the tool is machined with a 1/4" nut driver at the end, therefore it can be inserted into the open port in order to: screw the lock nut onto the poppet and hold...scuba-clinic-tools.com
Aqua Lung Lever Height Adjusting Tool
Aqua Lung Lever Height Adjustment Tool Kit The Aqua Lung Lever Height Adjusting Tool Kit fits 21 earlier models of Aqua Lung® second stages. It replaces the original Aqua Lung tool assembly that incorporated a hollow shafted 1/4" nut driver and reground screwdriver.This tool features a custom...www.scubatools.com
If you use the small screwdriver to hold the seat from rotating and the open end 1/4 inch nut driver, just be careful and gentle. You do not want to allow the seat to rotate, but you also don't want to push hard on it.
It takes very little nut rotation to move the level end up and down.
