Question Argonaut Kraken secondary leak adjustment

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The Kraken uses a standard AL high pressure seat. There are aftermarket seats and most likely your regulator may have the Trident replacement part seat. These work okay but often will begin to leak after some use just as yours does. Of course, even the AL part can leak in time, things do wear out. The AL HP seat is a brilliant crystal blue, the aftermarket part is a dull black face. An Aqua Lung shop should have the tools and parts as has been mentioned. The only different part off the top of my head internally in the first stage is the push pin is longer than the Conshelf first due to the replaceable volcano orifice in the Kraken.
 
While not the approach I would normally take, it's possible to replace just the HP seat, they should not be hard to find as 90% of all UDS/AL regs in the last 60 or so years have used the same seat. The hard part is getting the springs and balance chamber back in without the proper tools. IT IS NOT EASY....not that I have ever tried. :) Any AL shop will have the seats and tools but if you can get your hands on any AL service kit, the balance chamber orings are in it, if I had it apart I would also replace them. You can use a Titan/Conshelf manual for guidance , the AK is basically a funny looking Titan. To reset the IP, you must take the cans apart and then adjust the large adjustment slot in the middle of the reg, same way (and looks a lot like) you would a Conshelf/Titan.
Check out my recent post.


RK
 
Okay, as I read this problem, the Kraken is not leaking, but the secondary octopus regulator is leaking. The check of the interstate pressure on the Kraken showed it to be 200 psig. But the suggested interstage pressure is supposed to be 135 psig. This should be a simple adjustment of the interstate pressure. You do not have to replace any component, from my reading of this situation.

I do not have a Kraken, and so am not familiar with the procedure to adjust the interstage pressure. However, if it is the same as the Aqualung single hose regulators, it is a simply process. Usually there is a screw in the top of the first stage with either a slot for a screwdriver or an Allen wrench fitting. Loosen that screw (turn counter-clockwise) to decrease the interstate pressure, and tighten it by turning that screw clockwise.

You’ll have to take the case apart to access that screw, but on the Kraken that is pretty easy.

SeaRat
 

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QUESTION: Argonaut Kraken permanent airflow

Problem
: my newly delivered Argonaut Kraken reacted with a strong continuous air flow during a test dive in the diving pool. We are talking about ten centimeters below the surface of the water. You had the feeling that you were being inflated.

I live in Shanghai, this was during COVID with 100% travel restrictions, my German friend who is a technician and could have adjusted it has left the city.

I would like to solve the problem and ask you what the reason is and how I can solve it. I am not a technician. My guess is that some setting was set too fine at the factory.

Based on information I found it might be option c, a and b seems not an option, due it is coming directly from the company (?):

If you have air flowing through the mouthpiece all the time it could indicate one or more of the following issues.
a. Bad or damaged high pressure seat.
b. bad or damaged low pressure seat.
c. improperly adjusted intermediate pressure.

Perhaps I had received an assembled "monday" product because my metal rings (if anyone can tell me which type of metal ring - steel type and diameter in mm) and other accessories were missing as well. As I am not getting any response from the company, I am asking you for help here. Thank you!
 
First of all get an Intermediate Pressure (IP) gauge and plug it into the BC hose.
IP should be ~135psi
Cycle a few times to see if it locks up crisply then leave it pressurised and check in 5 mins then 30 mins.
If your secondary is leaking and others connected are too it’s possible the IP is too high (easily adjusted) or there is damage or wear to the HP seat which allows the IP to leak and drift up to the point where the LP seat setting is overcome and vents. So the reg needs a full service, there are several posts on the VDH website on how to do this quite straightforward.
The Kraken generally uses modern Aqualung parts, if the HP seat needs replacing I strongly suggest only using the OEM Blue HP seat not the aftermarket Black Trident alternative.
Some more info in this thread:

I have this problem: air flowing through the mouthpiece all the time, as described in my post. It seems to be similar. How to get it adjusted as a non technician?

Thank you!
 
Intermediate Pressure (IP) and Cracking Effort (CE) are adjusted by the indicated parts.

I'd caution you that if you don't know what you are doing, please research regulator tuning further before adjusting things....
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Basic regulator theory remains the same between single hose and double hose regulators, so a reasonably knowledgeable person should be able to adjust/tune your regulator, or if necessary properly service it.

You said your friend left, but maybe he can talk you through it. Video chat might be a great option.

maybe @Luis H or @herman can provide assistance here...
 
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Intermediate Pressure (IP) and Cracking Effort (CE) are adjusted by the indicated parts.

I'd caution you that if you don't know what you are doing, please research regulator tuning further before adjusting things....
View attachment 860152


Basic regulator theory remains the same between single hose and double hose regulators, so a reasonably knowledgeable person should be able to adjust/tune your regulator, or if necessary properly service it.

You said your friend left, but maybe he can talk you through it. Video chat might be a great option.

maybe @Luis H or @herman can provide assistance here...

A correction: the nut you are calling CE only adjust the lever height, not the cracking effort. The lever height doesn't really affect the cracking effort in this case. The diaphragm in this DH has so much travel that it is recommended to adjust the lever height about 1/8" (3 mm) above the edge of the can. There is no need for the lever to be touching the diaphragm.

The spring 2nd stage force versus the IP is what will affect the cracking effort. Changing the IP is easy, but changing the 2nd stage spring force is a bit more involved.
 
I have this problem: air flowing through the mouthpiece all the time, as described in my post. It seems to be similar. How to get it adjusted as a non technician?

Thank you!

What you are quoting from Fibonacci is a good start.

As he mentions, you will first need an IP gauge to isolate if this a 1st stage issue or a 2nd stage issue.
 
If your Kraken is not free flowing above water, it might be functioning properly, and you are just not used to some unusual properties of the reg.
If, while in the water, the mouthpiece is above the level of the metal can. the reg will free flow due to the pressure differential between the depth of the diaphragm and the mouthpiece. If you are wearing the tank low, as you should be, this can occur while you have a vertical position in the water. You will feel the reg force feeding you air. Once you assume the standard horizontal trim position with the can above the mouthpiece the positive pressure will stop. You will notice that breathing effort will change continuously depending on your attitude in the water.
This free flow comes in handy as the only way to purge water from the mouthpiece if you have insufficient air in your lungs is to raise the mouthpiece above the can until it flows. Also be aware that the Kraken can have a powerful venturi and can release a lot of air quickly unless stopped.
 
I did some trial dives - and it was permanently pressing air despite inhaling or not. I checked with the Pierce Youtube channel where he demonstrated in a pool teh function. The "habit" of mine is completely different.

What @scrane mentioned I am aware of, due to my observation. But the adjustment right now makes it impossible to use it for a dive.
 

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