Well said Rick....I learned something tonight.
Aluminum vs Steel
- Thread starter boomo26
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Here is a link to a great chart showing the buoyancy characteristics of most of the popular tanks. I have recently switched to steels and it has really made me look at my rig as a total package and I actually put a lot of time and thought into choosing tanks that would work to my advantage. The idea of "balancing" your rig is a good one regardless of the type of diving you do and the type and size of tank you are using makes a big difference in how you will perform in the water.
http://www.techdivinglimited.com/pub/tanks.html
http://www.techdivinglimited.com/pub/tanks.html
Tiefseetaucher:
I dive nitrox often. My Steels are not o2 clean. C'mon. Think about it....
Wait for it...
ding ding ding....
---
Ken
PS: if they made a 130 aluminum, I'd consider it. They don't. I dive Steel. The only serious choice if you're buying a tank. Aluminum 80's are a dive Op's ways of limiting our bottom time. Rebel - bring your own tank whenever you can.
KOMPRESSOR
Contributor
Mo2vation:
Not everyone has access to pre-blended nitrox, so "in general" Tiefseetaucher is correct. All my (steel) tanks are O2-clean and carry the GUE sticker to show it should be pretty safe for any dive center to fill 100% O2 on them during partial pressure mixing. However, there are more and more dive operators that have 40% nitrox ready, and thus can fill any old tank with nitrox for you.
boomo26:
It depends on the application. On any dive within recreational limits, I find that an AL 80 has enough gas, so the additional capacity of some steel tanks is not an issue. So for me, it comes down to the different buoyancy characteristics of the tanks. As has been pointed out by others, most steel tanks are neutral to slightly (or sometimes more than slightly) negative when empty. An AL 80, on the other hand, is 3 or 4 pounds positive when empty, although I believe Luxfer introduced a neutrally buoyant version a couple of years ago.
When diving in warm water with a steel backplate and a 3 mm suit, I can dive an AL 80 with no extra ballast. On the other hand, when wearing a drysuit and heavy underwear in the cold waters of the Great Lakes, I dive steel 104s/130s, also with a steel backplate.
As to your other questions, steel is generally a good bit more expensive than aluminum. As to nitrox, both can be O2 cleaned for partial pressure nitrox fills.
Borrow or rent whichever tanks you're considering and try them with the thermal protection and gear you dive most often. Find out how much additional weight, if any, you need with each set up. That way, you can find out which works best for you and your diving. If you end up diving frequently and in different suits, you're likely to end up owning both aluminum and steel, anyway.
Good luck with your decision.
tribaltim
Contributor
I'm learning a lot also this is a great thread. I have two steel 80's myself and I love them.
Thank you so much for your replies, I have already learned a lot. Most of the time I will dive in a lake, during the summer with a shorty and during the winter with a 7mm. I don't think I will use too many dry suits. My dive shop is going to sell there old steel tanks for $80, I think I might just pick up a couple of those. I just figured if I could get a aluminum tank for $20 more why not spend the extra money. Besides the rust problem, looks like steel is the way to go. Just to clarify can I switch a tank from nitrix back to air over and over or do I need to keep it nitrox once it is changed??
Boomo
Boomo
The key is whether you can keep your tank O2 clean or not. To keep an tank O2 clean, you need to fill it with O2 compatible gasses. You can most certainly fill your tank with air as long as the air you fill it with is O2 compatible. If not, you need to have your tank O2 cleaned again if you wish to dive with Nitrox being obtained from a source that fills it using pure O2 (i.e. filling from banked source does not require O2 re-cleaning).
One other thing to check with your used tanks before you buy them - check the hydro date. A hydro needs to be done every 5 years and there is a risk that a tank may fail hydro. So, the more recent your hydro date, the better. If it is close to having the hydro done again, I would build into the purchase agreement contingent on passing hydro.
One other thing to check with your used tanks before you buy them - check the hydro date. A hydro needs to be done every 5 years and there is a risk that a tank may fail hydro. So, the more recent your hydro date, the better. If it is close to having the hydro done again, I would build into the purchase agreement contingent on passing hydro.
Wink69
Registered
Is their a certain brand of steel tank that is preferred. Painted or not?
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