Scubapro 109 regulator bad signs and servicing pointers

[DA Aquamaster]

The older lever with the wider tabs does not work with the current G200 or G250 poppets. A newer lever with thinner tabs or a G250HP/S600 lever works fine.

If the silicone daphragm is in good shape and is still supple, I see no reason to change it. The current clear diaphragms do not strike me as being any better or worse.

What really does make a performance difference are the older brass orifices - the new (post 1994) plastic orifices are just not in the same league.

And for what it is worth, an R109 will drive nails a lot better than a plastic cased reg like the S600.

 

[ericpitar]

First of all, thank you all for the replies! This was my first post and never really expected so many responses in such a short amount of time. Extra note of thanks to DA for that snippet of his encyclopedia!

Additional info: When I receive the R109 (only the second stage), I will have it hooked up to an MK25 which currently has R190 primary.

A few more questions.... So far, it sounds like the early versions have superior mechanisms/parts like the chromeplated orifice vs. plastic for the post 1994 versions. At the same time, the early versions also have inferior mechanisms/parts such as plastic ball for a spring pad and levers with larger tabs.

1) Assuming it's all stock/unmodified, keeping in mind the pros and cons, would you choose the early version vs. the post 1994's?
2) Given that a version is in rebuildable condition, what would cost the most in parts to bring it up to optimum quality--early versions or post 1994's? (I'm in the Philippines right now, so I think if I could find a qualified tech here, labor would not be as bad as if I was in the US). How much would the parts cost at the most based on US prices?

Thanks again people!!

 

[redacted]

In the USA, I'd expect to pay under $20 for the annual service kit and $5 for a new lever & $2 for the spring pad (if necessary - most would have been updated already). Rubber parts like the exhaust-T and the diaphragm cover may be hard to find but should run about $22 and under $10 respectively.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

The plastic orifices did not come along until '94 and by then the R109 and R156 were history. So most of them have the metal orifice unless it was replaced for some reason.

The last of the Balanced Adjustables had a flat chrome finish that i never personally liked. Other wise newer is usually better as it already has the newer lever, a better diaphragm, etc. But condition is evertything and a 40 year old new in the box R109 would be a real find.

 

[Packhorse]

It cost me $39AUD for a 109, $22NZ for a service kit (including a Swing poppet) and $13NZ for a G250 spring.
Thats about $60US
I have done 3 dives on it so far. 46meters,52meters and 20 meters. Performed faultlessly and I much prefer it to my S600.

 

[ericpitar]

You guys are just *superb*. How much do I owe you??

One more question: Can the plastic orifice be replaced on the late models with brass and if so, how much would that cost?

 

[ericpitar]

I talked to a scubapro technician today who stated if needed, he could replace the current exhaust with a "universal t". Would you recommend this ? (Again, i don't have the item yet but i'm doing some research ahead of time.)

 

[Couv]

No charge for the first call. ;-)

Yes, the brass and plastic orifices are interchangeable, but you would have to find someone with New Old Stock to get a brass SP one. No reason to do that unless there is a problem with it. Also, chances are your 109 will have a brass orifice already. Another option might be to use a brass orifice from another make of regulator. The thread size, hole size and o-ring groove size are the most important factors. Still another option might be to get an after market product.

c

I would only replace the exhaust tee if really needed, it does not affect the performance of the regulator, just serves to keep the bubbles out of your face.


c

 

[scott11]

DA Aquamaster sent you a PM

Thanks

Scott

 

[Wayward Son]

I tried a universal T on mine & it wouldn't work. It's thicker, front to back, than the original & hit my chin. I could barely get the mouthpiece in my mouth & not at all when wearing a hood.