Scubapro 109 regulator bad signs and servicing pointers

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I left my receipt at the dive shop so I don't know the cost breakdown for the parts used in my case....Total though, including parts and labor, was equivalent to $38.
 
Btw, is there really any real advantage to getting the parts "ultrasonically cleaned" when serviced? I was also thinking of using GLO to see if it could put some added shine to the chrome facing...including the dings exposing some brass. Has anyone tried this?
 
I am not sure what the A and B configurations would be for the G250 HP. I suspect one is the system where there is no pressure on the seat when the air is off. That created more problems than it was worth and did not last long.

The G250 HP uses an entirely different balance chamber than the G250 and Balanced Adjustable. On the G250HP it is built into the adjustment knob assembly while it is a separate part on the G250 and BA.

The latest chambers I have seen for the G250 are gray and are longer. The extra lenght allows you to assemble everything outside the airbarrel, while the shorter ones are too short to engage the poppet due to the lenght of the spring.
 
That looks like it was a bit neglected, but I have bought and have been given some in much worst shape. At least most of the chrome in that one looks in fairly decent shape.

If you rinse ASAP after use in salt water it will be fine. Actually it will work fine anyway, most of the area where the chrome looks a bit worn is just cosmetic.

As I mentioned, I have some that the chrome is in much worst shape and they work great©Õhat one doesnÃÕ look that bad.

Here is one on Ebay. Is this about average condition for used ones?

Scubapro Mk-5 first stage and 109 second stage - eBay (item 110371479527 end time Apr-07-09 15:57:31 PDT)
 

I have yet to run into the 109 that was in too bad a shape to bring back to life. Missing chrome and dented covers have a big impact on appearance but not on performance. The Mk5 is another story. Scubapro recommends not using that medium weight (7/16th yoke screw) on 3000 psi tanks. But the yoke can be replaced with a modern yoke. That turret is a 4 LP port turret which will not fit your needs if you dive a long hose primary. Plus, I can't tell from the picture, but based on the vintage the HP ports may be 3/8ths rather than 7/16ths and may require an adapter for a modern HP hose.
 
It is about average. It has the lighter 3000 psi yoke. The heavier yoke with the 9/16" yoke screw is preferrable as is the 5 port LP port turret. It is hard to tell in the picture but the HP ports may be either 3/8" or 7/16".
 
I have 6 of them and use them with mk5 1st with din conversions and there the best regs ive used. Richard
 
I just replaced both of the parts you mentioned Matt (Exhaust Tee and Rubber Diaphragm Cover). My cost was 24 bucks. I bought the 109 connected to a MK10 and both were pretty much in good shape.
 
Okay, these are R109's I got off eBay. They both had metal orifice's...silver colored, so I assume they are crome plated brass. I say had, because those parts were removed and replaced with plastic orifices. The work order says, "updated adjustable orifice due to parts not available anymore". The metal orifice's were returned to me in a bag with all the old o-rings. Apparently, they updated the balance poppet assembly also...there was a good size spring and some kind of plastic looking piece that has four ribs or vanes that run lenthwise in the bag with the other parts replaced. I could take a picture of the whole package they returned and put it up for review tomorrow. The sharp end of both orifices doesn't seem so sharp to me. Not butter knife wide, but not cutting sharp either. Just to be sure I have things right...the orifice screws in to the opening where the low pressure hose will connect to the 2nd stage assembly...right?

The part number they list is 11-500-109 and cost $5.95 each for the plastic orifices.

The work order also says, "Updated balance poppet assembly". They put in a G250 poppet, 11-250-015 for $18.95 in one of the units, along with a: Spring, Bal 2nd ST, 01-020-216 for $2.95; and a: Balance Chamber G250 balance chamber bal adj, 11-150-102 for $2.20.

Other than that, they used 2 (R190 annual repair kits) plus one other pair of o-rings to complete the service.

Any thoughts? Are the orifices usable? Why remove them? The repair technician also told me that one of the R109's is now balanced or maybe it came in balanced, but the other unit is not balanced. Maybe I should ask if it can be converted or should I leave it as is?

Thanks,
 
His parts prices seem quite reasonable. Some shops may replace the orifice just to be sure they are working with good parts. I'd inspect the old orifices closely looking for any marks in the "knife edge" (it really is not sharp). If you don't see any defects, wrap them up carefully so they can't be damaged and keep them.

I can't imagine why they would use two R190 kits. The seat in the R190 also fits the unbalanced adjustable but not the one that has been converted to balanced.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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