Zipper Length TLS 350

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ianr33

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So I've decided to bite the bullet and try replacing the zipper on my drysuit (TLS350 size large)

The DRIS site states zippers are measured from where the teeth start to where they end. It's kind of hard to do accurately due to the curve on the zipper, but I figure it's 35"

Anyone know if that's what I actually need?

Thanks
 
I am all for DIY, but probably wouldn't recommend most folks do a zipper on a TLS350. It has to be sewn in, which takes around a #18 needle, polyester or nylon thread, and an industrial sewing machine. If that doesn't scare you, I can share more advice on how to do it. A large TLS350 takes a 34" zipper. I used a TiZip purchased from Dive Right In Scuba. They also do all kinds of drysuit repairs for those that don't want to undertake repairs, with a fast turn around time.

TIZIP Masterseal Drysuit Zipper - Dive Right In Scuba - Plainfield, IL



 
My wife has an industrial sewing machine and knows how to use it. Open to any suggestions you may have! Thanks.

What a woman!
 
My wife has an industrial sewing machine and knows how to use it. Open to any suggestions you may have! Thanks.
Got one suggestion! Have her teach YOU how to use the sewing machine!! Knowing how to sew is important, well at least for me as I am always making or fixing something. The industrial machine is mine, but I let my partner use it :wink:

Use a seam ripper to remove the old stitching, not a knife. Your hand is probably going to hurt. Then cut the glue line out as you pull the old zipper out, using a very sharp knife this time. Be very careful not to even nick the trilam material.

I used an air grinder similar to a Dremel (Dremels suck, but would work), with a small round sanding drum on it, using a fairly course sandpaper. I removed some of the glue line smoothing it to get rid of the ridge left more than anything and allow a clean, roughed up place to bond too. After all wax was probably used on the old zipper. A quick wipe with MEK or Acetone should clean everything up nicely.

Take the old zipper and the new one. One thing nice about the Tizip is with a good pair of scissors it cuts easily. Cut the width down to what the old zipper was. Cut the part you plan to sew in first (Top or bottom of zip) to the right amount. Leave the other end long for now.

Starting at the end of the zipper that you cut sew across it keep the zipper headed in the right direction. Work your way down one side, then down the other side stopping a little short to allow you to trim the one side you haven't cut yet. You will find the sewing machine will stretch the material as you sew it in. Now with only a couple of inches left you can be more assured of your last cut. There are two rows of stitching and you can follow the old holes.

Once the sewing is completed, check to make sure everything opens and closes properly. You need to turn the suit inside out in order to glue the inside. I used Aquaseal mixed with Cotol 240. Cotol 240 has Toululene in it, but it is not the same, so use Cotol 240. I bought a quart from DRIS, and buy the large tube of Aquaseal which needs to be kept in the freezer when not in use. Use warm water to make the Aquaseal flow better. I buy disposable brushes from Harbor Freight, then cut the tips off with a pair of scissors, and gently pull the loose bristles out (If you need a narrow brush cut some of the brush off sideways). I use paint can type tops for mixing glues in, as the different types of lids allow two different glue pot sizes. You can see how I affixed the zipper as flat as possible and did a large section in one shot. I was able to get it done in three glue pots. It was cold when I did my friends, so I mixed at almost a 50/50 mixture which is pretty hot. It dries quicker that way and has excellent penetration. A quick wipe across the old glue and the zipper with Cotol 240 will help it adhere. Watch how close you get to the zipper, and keep a rag handy in case you need to perform cleanup. Some Cotol will help dissolve any mistakes. You can use tape if you want a clean edge, but I didn't bother. A heat gun can put a skin over the outside so the glue doesn't run as much.

Next comes the pressure test. I use a spare inflator hose, a rubber tipped blow gun, and my little 60 gallon 120 psi compressor. I put a plastic container like a Costco sized sour cream etc. in the neck with a loose zip tie to keep it in place. Then either put your dry gloves on, or some full soda cans/bottles into the wrist seals. Close the exhaust valve. Zip the suit most of the way, and stick the blow gun into the suit thru the remaining opening, as this will allow you to inflate it quicker than thru the inflator valve (Or at least I hope so or you need a slower inflator). Once mostly filled quickly zip it closed. Now fill it the rest of the way, and grab your already made spray bottle with water, and a little dish washing liquid. Spray it over your repair and see how it came out! If you have a leak mark it out, then go back and glue it again.

Now pat yourself on your back and say good job! Reward yourself with a...a dive of course :D
 
So I've decided to bite the bullet and try replacing the zipper on my drysuit (TLS350 size large)

The DRIS site states zippers are measured from where the teeth start to where they end. It's kind of hard to do accurately due to the curve on the zipper, but I figure it's 35"

Anyone know if that's what I actually need?

Thanks

some one check the zipper length from stop to stop, we call OL length
and some once chekc the zipper from teeth to teeth, we call EL length

pls check the photo at www.jqjcn.com
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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