Whipping

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if you want to use a tank whip buy one from global. you can get two different length rods for doing 80's or pony bottles.

I am not sure if you are refering to steel 80's or aluminum 80's, but if I recall correctly the wire brush sold by Global is not to be used on aluminum tanks (I can't remember for sure so double check with Global before using it).
 
I am not sure if you are refering to steel 80's or aluminum 80's, but if I recall correctly the wire brush sold by Global is not to be used on aluminum tanks (I can't remember for sure so double check with Global before using it).

And again,I'm at a loss.
Correct me if I'm wrong (guess I am) :D
But the rod with the wires goes on a (high speed) drill and you move it up and down to remove the rust.
So what has the size of the tank have to do with it.:confused:
 
Ahh,that makes sence.Thanks.

I've never seen such tools but they would make a nice addition to the other tools,just to get the flash rust out,before hydro.

They make a nice addition because they are such a simple and quick tool to use with amazingly good results.

I used to do a lot of tumbling when I work at a dive shop as a kid and I hate it. what a mess and a back breaking job (for a kid or an adult).

I always hear you talk about blasting and it sound like a very good alternative (as always, if properly used), but no one around here uses it. The initial cost of the equipment probably is more than most shops is willing to spend. Especially since aluminum tanks is still the predominant marked for most of the US.
 
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They make a nice addition because they are such a simple and quick tool to use with amazingly good results.

I used to do a lot of tumbling when I work at a dive shop as a kid and I hate it. what a mess and a back breaking job (for a kid or an adult).

I always hear you talk about blasting and it sound like a very good alternative (as always, if properly used), but no one around here uses it. The initial cost of the equipment probably is more than most shops is willing to spend. Especially since aluminum tanks is still the predominant marked for most of the US.

That might be, because diveshops over here can't do hydro's themselfs.
Hydro's are done by a government appointed company.Most commonly LARGE companys selling industrial gass cylinders or fire extinguisers(?)
 
And again,I'm at a loss.
Correct me if I'm wrong (guess I am) :D
But the rod with the wires goes on a (high speed) drill and you move it up and down to remove the rust.
So what has the size of the tank have to do with it.:confused:

I don't know. All three types of my wire brushes (the two side wall ones and the tank bottom brush) have the same lenght of rod. They work on all of my the Scuba tanks that I normally use.

They are long enough to reach any Scuba tank I can think of.


I may have trouble with small neck tanks, like my set of Poseidon doubles or my set of double Drager. Those are not DOT tanks so I have not service them in a long time, but I think I am going to hydro them in the near future and start using them. Those have some kind of metric tapered thread with a small neck. I have an adapter to hydro them, but I hope I never have to clean the inside of them... talking about a royal pain.
 
I don't know. All three types of my wire brushes (the two side wall ones and the tank bottom brush) have the same lenght of rod. They work on all of my the Scuba tanks that I normally use.

They are long enough to reach any Scuba tank I can think of.


I may have trouble with small neck tanks, like My set of Poseidon doubles or my set of double Drager. Those are not DOT tanks so I have not service them in a long time, but I think I am going to hydro them in the near future and start using them. Those have some kind of metric tapered thread with a small neck. I have an adapter to hydro them, but I hope I never have to clean the inside of them... talking about a royal pain.

That sounds like small conical thread,an old metric thread.
We had small and large conical and 3/4gas in the "old" day's
Now it's all M25

I've got a dozen of them small one's.Small conical and small in size :D
we use them for pool training and kid's tanks.
We call them 5 litre,don't have a clue on the imperial size.The come in 200 and 300 bar
 
I fairly sure mine are 7 liter tanks. At 200 Bar they work out to be about 50 cu ft tanks which is a great size for a set of low profile doubles. When I sued to dive this tanks it almost felt like I was free diving... there is no drag to them.



DSCN2335.jpg


Here is a closer picture of the neck and the valves, with the reserve in the connecting manifold. I also liked how I counld separate them at any time with air in them. Each tank has an independent valve with DIN connection (or should I call it the 5/8" threaded European connection). It was not called a DIN connection back in the 70's and before>

DSCN2346.jpg



Here are my Drager, but I replaced the harness, the manifold and one valve. The tanks were manufactured in 1957.

DSCN2333.jpg
 
I am not sure if you are refering to steel 80's or aluminum 80's, but if I recall correctly the wire brush sold by Global is not to be used on aluminum tanks (I can't remember for sure so double check with Global before using it).


refering to steel tanks. i should have been more specific in my response. sorry for any confusion
 
It's standard overhere BUT we only use steel tanks.AL tanks might get worn out pretty soon..
I've seen steel tanks pass hydro, after dozens of times blasting.


i didnt say you couldent sand blast, just that it is not the most ideal way to go about it. i am sure it would pass a hydro, but you take more of a chance of maybe removing material from the sidewalls, and then the tank must be condemened if to much is removed.

again i was refering to steel tanks. if it were aluminum i would only recomened tumbling.

where is overhere?
 
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https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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