Which wrist mount depth gauge?

[JessH]

I am buying the first of my own SCUBA gear(besides fins, mask, etc). I have decided on a set of Atomic Z1 regulators, but since gauges on rental gear are usually in a console, I also need to buy them. Unfortunatly I am having some problems finding something that fits both my budget and my needs.

I have decided on the DIR style brass SPG, and am thinking of going with a walmart special watch for a bottom timer (G-Force or something similar, hopefully rated to 200m so I can actually press buttons...) But I am having problems deciding on a depth gauge.

I originally wanted to get a simple analog wrist mounted one. It seemed like a cheap way to start so that I could save up for a good computer, and have something worth keeping around as a backup when I do get one. The problem is that at my LDSs they want more for a simple analogue gauge($180) than for something like the Uwatec digital bottom timer ($160). They also carry Capillary style ones for under $30, but they look cheap, and don't keep track of your maximum depth.

So should I get one of these two options or can someone recommend something better?

Thanks!

~Jess

 

[nickjb]

The Uwatec gauge is great. It is rugged, easy to use, has all the data you need and a basic log book. It'll make a good back-up if you do get a computer later.

Analogue gauges are much cheaper over here. You could have a look online. You might be able to find a used one pretty cheap, too.

Personally I'd go for the Uwatec.

Safe Diving
Nick

 

[Charlie99]

JessH once bubbled...
So should I get one of these two options or can someone recommend something better?

Buy a nitrox-compatible computer. If you don't want to have it do the NDL calcs for you, either run it in gauge mode or even simpler, just ignore the NDL time.

Better yet, run deco calcs in your head and compare it to the computers guess. A good way to learn.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

What Charlie said....There are several computers with a selectable gauge mode and if not, you can still ignore the N2 loading information. Just having a computer does not in and of itself make you reliant on it, but at times that is how it gets portrayed by some of the folks in the tech comunity. You have a brain and can choose how to use your equipment.

It does add a failure point but not really anymore than a digital depth gauge. If you move on to a more capable computer later, you can still leave the old one in a wrist boot and use it as a backup.

Capillary depth gauges are low profile, inexpensive and they are also very accurate at shallow depths. In the old days before computers they were very popular for use during deco stops as analog depth gauges are not quite as accurate at shallower depths. The down side of a capillary gauge is that it can be harder to read at depth and in dark conditions.

 

[JessH]

Charlie99 once bubbled...
Buy a nitrox-compatible computer.

That is the ultimate plan. The problem is that after buying the regs I am going to be broke My plan is to try and do the gauges cheaply so that I can save up for a dive computer that does everything that I want(Nitrox, etc...)

~Jess

 

[JessH]

DA Aquamaster once bubbled...

Capillary depth gauges are low profile, inexpensive and they are also very accurate at shallow depths. In the old days before computers they were very popular for use during deco stops as analog depth gauges are not quite as accurate at shallower depths. The down side of a capillary gauge is that it can be harder to read at depth and in dark conditions.

My main concern is the difficulty in reading. How hard are they to read? The real question is, can I realistically use a capillary depth gauge as my primary depth gauge or is that just asking for trouble?

~Jess

 

[divad]

Why are they hard to read?

 

[pdoege]

The digital gauges normally have a nice backlight. They typically have pretty slow update rates and they do not give very good ascent/descent rate feedback.

Normally just a couple of LED bars.

The analog guages give you direct feedback as to your ascent/descent rates. Really nice for practicing safety stops and maintaining a nice easy ascent rate.

Peter

 

[divad]

Oh, I think its because they don't have a dial and you actually read a water filled tube next to a scale. Is Dacor the only one
who makes them?

 

[DA Aquamaster]

In the dark and when using a light, you can sometimes get reflections in the tube that make it harder to read. Of course to be fair I have had this same issue with non back lit computers, especially when they have a protective cover over the face.

The other issue is that at depth, they become increasingly less sensitive. They are great above 30 ft, ok from 30-60 ft and progressively less suitable as depths goes below 60-100 ft.