When to reassess regulator choices? A question to tech divers..

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Impressive!
I've got around 11 SP MK17s and another dozen SP MK20s (2nd and 3rd generation) with a dozen Apeks MK50/MK100 2nd stages and 1 old Spiro 2nd stage on my Omnibooster.
Also in my vintage gear a Mistral, Royal Mistral, Siebe Gorman Merlin MK6 and the East German Medi.
Service is performed when a reg stops performing perfectly, but I do take a working spare of every reg type that I'm using for a dive along in the car.
Michael
 
@CuriousRambler

I service based on need, not on time. I also have a crazy large quantity of regs. As they need service, they get swapped out for good ones, and when the pile of stuff that needs repair gets big enough, I commit a couple of nights to rebuilding.

Much the same -- a crazy number of regulators, firsts and seconds swapped out as needed. Much like a contractor whose own kitchen project is never quite completed, I have generally serviced client's regulators ahead of mine. I too dedicate a few evenings to rebuilds -- sorta look forward to them, along with the Ramones on the stereo, set to the threshold of pain . . .
 
@CuriousRambler

sorry, late back to the party since I was gone this weekend.

at 400ft, IF you are paying attention to gas density, which you damn well better be, then they will behave about the same as they would at a shallower depth with the same gas density. If you do stupid things like dive deep air, then there are definitely better regs out there that have an easier time flowing idiotic quantities of gas, but don't be stupid.

I service based on need, not on time. I also have a crazy large quantity of regs. As they need service, they get swapped out for good ones, and when the pile of stuff that needs repair gets big enough, I commit a couple of nights to rebuilding.

Deep6 regs use the same tools to rebuild as dive rite, same with Apeks, HOG, etc. The only special tool you need for those is a pin spanner. Everything else is allen keys and o-ring picks. Scubapro requires some special tools, as do Poseidon. Deep6 has the lowest cost of ownership though since you get the first service for free, and if you take the reg repair course, you get a free set of parts every year, so that's well worth it. Dive Rite does not publish their service manuals, nor is their a factory authorized service course.
Will you notice a difference in performance? It is unlikely, but it is there.
I took the Deep6 course (taught by Chris Richardson himself) and didn’t know about the “free parts every year” thing. Is this recent?
 
I took the Deep6 course (taught by Chris Richardson himself) and didn’t know about the “free parts every year” thing. Is this recent?

you'll have to email them directly for specifics. My understanding is everything is currently under warranty, so they haven't rolled it out yet, but I'm sure they will come out with a formal statement on that at some point soon.
 
And stay away from Flight/MXR/XL4 since they apparently require some custom tools, and XTX is rated for more extreme conditions.[/QUOTE]

I’m debating between xtx and mxr. I regularly dive 40-45 degree water. You believe the xtx are the better choice? Thanks.
 
Our dive club uses Apeks, and recommends Apeks to all who want to get a new reg.

Basically, anything from XTX50/100/200 for primary for singles/doubles, and mostly ATX/XTX40 for stages are used.

We also dive a lot of cold green water, so a sealed diaphragm is a must.

I’m debating between xtx and mxr. I regularly dive 40-45 degree water. You believe the xtx are the better choice? Thanks.
 
Apparently MXR are for colder waters, and 60m max or something like that, and they don't quite breathe as nice as XTX, since they're basically an military reg, and I've read somewhere that the performance is prolonged cold water use.
I also heard that people use XTX for super cold water.

I've dove a whole winter temps as low as 5C with a DS4/XTX40.
which would be basically your range, and switched mid winter to FSR/XTX200 so I'd say, go for XTX. MTX uses some propiatery stuff as far as I know
 
@cklaus since you're in the US, I frankly wouldn't bother with Apeks as they are grossly overpriced in this country for what they are. They're ubiquitous in Europe because they're cheap, but they're stupid expensive here. I'd look elsewhere and save many hundreds of dollars for equally good regulators
 
I have dove Poseidon regulators since the late 1970s, in most every configuration that you have mentioned, from primaries; doubles. to bailout bottles. I have standardized my equipment in that brand-specific fashion, and service my own gear. I have used Scubapro from time to time; but the various Poseidon models had always been my favorites . . .
Big Bella, I just had a student with a Poseidon that hit you so hard on inhalation that it would literally drown you in air. Is this how you find yours working? or did this guy have a improperly tuned or wasn't using it correctly?? The reason why I ask is I've been looking at them in my LDS and want to know before I delve out some change. :shark1:
 
Big Bella, I just had a student with a Poseidon that hit you so hard on inhalation that it would literally drown you in air. Is this how you find yours working? or did this guy have a improperly tuned or wasn't using it correctly?? The reason why I ask is I've been looking at them in my LDS and want to know before I delve out some change. :shark1:

That was a very poorly-tuned regulator.

Mine breathe quite normally -- effortlessly -- with very little cracking effort; very comfortable with no "blowing out the back of the head," etc, as I have heard from some; and I have test-dove a number of brands over the years; but have always come back to Poseidon.

The IP may be way off, most likely; a damaged servo valve perhaps; or else the regulator is not remotely tuned to the first stage; hard to say, without seeing it. Any Jetstream, tuned to the current specs, should not be experiencing any problem like you describe. I can lightly breathe on mine -- sip, if you will; or, alternatively, huff and puff without issue.

I assume that it is a newer model, paired with the Xstream first stage, at 8.5 bar? My older models, the Odin (Jetstream) 2960s, etc. are still adjusted to older 9.6-10 bar specs, and run beautifully -- even though Poseidon has futzed with its numbers, any number of times, over the years.

My suggestion is to test its breathing resistance -- see if that could be an issue -- using this dirt-simple field repair document, below . . .
 

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