When to reassess regulator choices? A question to tech divers..

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Aside from torque wrenches, hemostats and screwdrivers, which no scuba manufacturer actually produces, I cannot think of a tool which Poseidon doesn't make, for their regulator servicing; and, as for for parts kits, Scubapro has already met or exceeded them in terms of pricing, in any number of markets. As for tuning, I have never had a problem in twenty-plus years of working on them, nor have ever understood that common claim.

Scuba Clinic, to be sure, makes a number of after-market Poseidon tools, some of which are simply duplicates of already existing or discontinued items; just riffs off of their two combination tools; some others, actually interesting, but largely unnecessary . . .

Tool wise, I was thinking of the 17mm flat crows foot to torque the DIN fitting, we also have a jankly little brass contraption from Salt Blue to clean the servo valves in a hydrosonic cleaner (doesn't work well), they also had a variety of other tools to sell during the last service class I took. Most not necessary, but sure would be handy!

For the first stages (xstreams), after a rebuild we set the IP at about 25 PSI and leave them pressurized for 24-48 hours to get the IP to be stable after setting it. If we don't, we get a high percentage of them drifting after a few days. Do you not have that problem? I also hate having to use foreceps to tune the 2nd stage (it doesn't play well with my dyslexia), and don't get me started on the little rubber tipped retainer screw to keep it from drifting out of tune while simultaneously knocking it out of tune...
 
Tool wise, I was thinking of the 17mm flat crows foot to torque the DIN fitting, we also have a jankly little brass contraption from Salt Blue to clean the servo valves in a hydrosonic cleaner (doesn't work well), they also had a variety of other tools to sell during the last service class I took. Most not necessary, but sure would be handy!

For the first stages (xstreams), after a rebuild we set the IP at about 25 PSI and leave them pressurized for 24-48 hours to get the IP to be stable after setting it. If we don't, we get a high percentage of them drifting after a few days. Do you not have that problem? I also hate having to use foreceps to tune the 2nd stage (it doesn't play well with my dyslexia), and don't get me started on the little rubber tipped retainer screw to keep it from drifting out of tune while simultaneously knocking it out of tune...

I am unfamiliar with that "janky" contraption that you had mentioned, for the servo valves. Mine go in the ultrasonic cleaner in a fine mesh basket without any issue. I recall few new tools from the last refresher course (circa 2018); but they had been featured in Poseidon manuals for decades, including that mondo 1.5 kilo press for installing that damn little retaining ring on the Cyklon; that, or for cracking black walnuts. Thankfully, I inherited a few older tools, including that one, when a store closed. I actually knew someone who could easily install the ring by hand; though, I always managed to draw blood in my attempts.

I believe that Hazet and a few others also manufacture a 17 mm crow for their torque wrenches, which will also fit the XStream; though, in a stellar first, they are generally more expensive than the Poseidon widget. Go figure that one -- another sign of the apocalypse.

I haven't experienced that IP drift with the XStream, except on a single occasion, with an older model, prior to the upgrade kit; and have, otherwise found them simpler to work on than their predecessors. Out of habit, I generally leave them at high pressure for a few minutes after a rebuild. I do recall that there was a run of wonky seats a few years back, that have since been replaced. Perhaps that had been an issue?
 
Scuba Clinic Tools sells all of the ones you need fairly cheap for service. The crowsfeet are irritating because they also have to be thing. Instead of a crowsfoot though, the Scuba Clinic Tools actually acts like a socket and you can use a normal torque wrench without adjustment and I find it to be much easier to work with.

You shouldn't have that issue on the MK3 first stages, but I do recommend following the manual when it says to let it sit at 0psi IP for a bit to make sure everything is sealing before you go to adjust it
 
@CuriousRambler

sorry, late back to the party since I was gone this weekend.

at 400ft, IF you are paying attention to gas density, which you damn well better be, then they will behave about the same as they would at a shallower depth with the same gas density. If you do stupid things like dive deep air, then there are definitely better regs out there that have an easier time flowing idiotic quantities of gas, but don't be stupid.

I service based on need, not on time. I also have a crazy large quantity of regs. As they need service, they get swapped out for good ones, and when the pile of stuff that needs repair gets big enough, I commit a couple of nights to rebuilding.

Deep6 regs use the same tools to rebuild as dive rite, same with Apeks, HOG, etc. The only special tool you need for those is a pin spanner. Everything else is allen keys and o-ring picks. Scubapro requires some special tools, as do Poseidon. Deep6 has the lowest cost of ownership though since you get the first service for free, and if you take the reg repair course, you get a free set of parts every year, so that's well worth it. Dive Rite does not publish their service manuals, nor is their a factory authorized service course.
Will you notice a difference in performance? It is unlikely, but it is there.
 
Thanks for the input @tbone1004.

I spoke with Dive Rite about a service course, and they apparently do offer them, usually at trade shows. I was practically begging them to offer one around the Long Beach Scuba Show, but COVID seems to have screwed that all up. I have no doubt I can manage service without the course, but if one's available and relatively convenient, I figure there's no good reason not to take it.
 
Thanks for the input @tbone1004.

I spoke with Dive Rite about a service course, and they apparently do offer them, usually at trade shows. I was practically begging them to offer one around the Long Beach Scuba Show, but COVID seems to have screwed that all up. I have no doubt I can manage service without the course, but if one's available and relatively convenient, I figure there's no good reason not to take it.

good to know. I know they did it at the tradeshows, but thought you had to be associated with a dealer to take it.
 
good to know. I know they did it at the tradeshows, but thought you had to be associated with a dealer to take it.

I was very up front about not being associated with, and no plan to ever be associated with a dealer/shop. They said no problem, but did suggest it's probably not worth it financially, and that I likely wouldn't get enough practice to stay proficient. I have my opinions about both of those comments. Neither are really a strong argument from my perspective. I don't own half the tools I own "because it saves me money." I own them because I do a better job than anybody I can afford to pay.
 
I spoke with Dive Rite about a service course,
Take a Hog/Edge/Deep 6 course and you'll learn all you need. They're incredibly similar.
 
I'm moving everything to a single regulator repair kit. At the end of next week, my nearly 20 regulators will all be the same exact dive rite reg, and I'll only need to buy one repair kit for each stage. YAY! so much easier to keep track of
 

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