What primary light for Adv Wreck? Eos? Explorer? Other?

[Tortuga68]

I'm planning to take AW at Subic Bay in the Philippines in November. I was going to use the corded DR LED700 I already have as a primary (even though it's not really 'primary' standard, but probably ok for the course) but I've had nothing but problems with it since I got it (that's a whole other thread topic)

So I'm looking at getting something just for the course... LED lights appeal to me but I think they're a little way off competing with HID for a tight, white beam just yet. But has anyone tried the Halcyon EOS?

I have no plans to take up cave diving at this point - so I don't think burn time is a big issue - but will do wreck penetration from time to time after this cert. I live in Shanghai at the moment and do most of my diving in Asia

I like the look of MB SUB and Agir Brokk but want something that I can get local support for. I think if I could wait another year or two (as I had planned to do when I bought the LED700) I would definitely go with LED primary. But right now I'm not so sure

Halcyon Explorer 21w looks like to safe choice (and Extreme Exposure are giving away two LED Scout backups with them this month), but if you have any other suggestions, please share them

NOT interested in any more Dive Rong products!

Thanks,

S.

 

[CyprusSeb]

I dive with a Sartek 35W HID. Great light. My second choice was going to be a 21W Light Monkey. For the course you won't really need a lot of light. Decide what kind of switch you want (way to turn it on and off), how long you want the battery to last, what size canister you want, and most importantly, if possible, try out other people's lights.

 

[Superlyte27]

I've dove with every light made by Dive Rite since 1996 and have never had any issues with them on lights. I currently dive a 21w Explorer which appears to be exactly the same in every way (except size) as my 24w Dive Rite HID. It's a very solidly built light if you were willing to spend the cash.

Kinda funny, you say the 700Lumen light is not a primary light, but it's way brighter than the old 50w Halogen MLS we used for cave diving.

 

[Tortuga68]

Yeah, I guess it depends what it's being compared to...

I don't mind spending $1500 on a good light, I'm just concerned about the durability of the HID - all of my diving involves international travel

Briefly, I bought a corded DR LED500 from Edd at CA for a good price as something to last me until LEDs evolved to match 21w HID lights. It was chewing batteries like you wouldn't believe, an hour and it would start fading rapidly to almost no light output. I sent it to DR in the US from Australia, incurring some postage costs. They 'upgraded' it to a 700 module, putting some tool marks in the head at the same time, which I wasn't happy about either. It's exactly the same (chews batteries/fades out). I need to get in touch with Edd again and get another R/A# I guess, so they (DR not CA) can put some more tool marks in the head. My experience so far is that I've used it about 6 times (45 minute dives), gone through 3 sets of batteries and had it fail on me during 3 dives. So the idea of taking it in the USS New York on an Adv Wreck course doesn't really appeal to me (although it could be good practice in switching to my backup lol) and anyway I'm not sure I have time to send it away again before then

What I'd really like to see is a back-to-back of the Eos and a 21w HID. I'd look on youtube but I can't from China

 

[Tortuga68]

I dive with a Sartek 35W HID. Great light. My second choice was going to be a 21W Light Monkey. For the course you won't really need a lot of light. Decide what kind of switch you want (way to turn it on and off), how long you want the battery to last, what size canister you want, and most importantly, if possible, try out other people's lights.

Thanks. What are the pros and cons of the switch types, if any? I think 4.5 battery will be fine for me, not planning to do long dives or more than 2 dives between charges. Not sure about cannister size, I would have thought the smaller the better? Unfortunately probably not going to be able to try any lights before November

 

[SuPrBuGmAn]

Light Monkey's 12w if you want a tighter beam LED, its a single emmiter instead of the array DR uses. Equivelant to a 10w HID. There's a 21w LED as well, LM says it doesn't have the punch of the HID. Its gonna be tougher, smaller, and likely nearly as bright(1100 vs 1500 lumens apparently).

 

[tbone1004]

Check out 350xfire's lights. You'd be hard pressed to find a higher quality light, especially for the price. I have had nothing but good things to say about mine, and the rest of my tech/cave diving buddies are equally impressed. Mine is a 10w LED and holds its own with 10-15w HID's. Not quite as punchy, but plenty tight for signaling etc.
Had a problem with the first one I bought which was a prototype, got it fixed and it's been on about 150 dives since May and it's still running like a champ. Has the usual bumps and bruises/scratches on the housing, but the glass is still clean and the batteries and switches/cable are all running great

 

[keithdiver]

Thanks. What are the pros and cons of the switch types, if any? I think 4.5 battery will be fine for me, not planning to do long dives or more than 2 dives between charges. Not sure about cannister size, I would have thought the smaller the better? Unfortunately probably not going to be able to try any lights before November

Take a look at the Halcyon 21 watt HID. They have the special where you get the 2 back up scouts with purchase, If you don't want to spend that $ look at the 21 watt HID light Monley, i have both ! The Light monkey you can pick up for a really good price at Indian Valley Scuba. Give Bev a call there, and i am sure she will take care of your purchase

 

[HenrikBP]

I bought an MB-Sub VB-50 light in May and have about 50 dives on it now and really like the light. It's very solidly built and the light head is a little smaller in diameter as well as shorter than the 21W HID lights.

The beam pattern is very smooth, and the variable beam width is very useful in some situations. The beam width can be adjusted from 8° - 35° (from memory), and the light is very bright for an LED. I've used it for signaling in medium viz water during daytime with good results.

The only downside I see, is that I would like the narrow beam to be even more focused. Signaling at closer range is great, but it doesn't have the long reach of the "light saber" HID.

The light is upgradeable so when new, brighter LEDs become available the LED can be exchanged. No idea how that's going to work or how much, but I like the idea. Supposedly, if these newer LEDs are also of a smaller footprint, then it may be possible to narrow down the beam.

Henrik

 

[rjack321]

Thanks. What are the pros and cons of the switch types, if any? I think 4.5 battery will be fine for me, not planning to do long dives or more than 2 dives between charges. Not sure about cannister size, I would have thought the smaller the better? Unfortunately probably not going to be able to try any lights before November

This is why you are killing lights. A 4.5Ah battery is too small for ~21W lights as its only 1:30 to 2:00 max duration. So you will probably be regularly discharging >80% of capacity. With that kind of abuse it won't last long. You need a 9+Ah battery to do 2 dives of any length (60mins) without killing the battery fast.