Vintage style backpack for double hose?

[TN Traveler]

The "new" Freedom Plate in SS weighs about 2.2# (about the same as my now discarded AL plate) - all the excess metal has bee removed.

I went home for lunch and measured my Freedom Plate - there is just enough room to drill a hole for holding a STA at the bottom - based on 11" centers. I drilled a hole at the top to hold the wing in place, since I am not real good at juggling multiple pieces of gear (wing, plate, harness, tank, ..) on a rocking boat - but it is just a way to position things, it does not add anything to the stability of the rig (the rails do that).

I like the looks of the flat AL plate - with the little bend at the bottom of the tank, it looks like it would position the PRAM properly. If (when??) I get one, it would probably replace my Oxycheq UltraLite plate. I can confirm what "N" said - the UltraLite Plate works very well all alone for no BC diving - but then again, so does the Freedom Plate with a 3mm wetsuit.

Since I don't have a big butt - I have not had the problem of a tank hitting me in the a$$ (My gluts probably would not prevent tank roll)

 

[HenrikBP]

Glutes .... hmmmm. I might need some shimming of the tail of the tank - and will still have enough "glutes" to stabilize the tank

Henrik

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

All you guys need to do is get in the gym and start doing more squats. That'll get those glutes built up in no time.
But seriously, I found that with my long skinny tank (7.25" steel 120) there is so much tank hanging down below the plate and past my butt that no plate would be able to support it. I like to ride the tank really low to balance out the weight for backpacking.
Look at my avatar to the left and you can see how low I set the tank. The valve is right at the same level as the top of the plate.

 

[Rynomar]

ZKY,

The new aluminum plate looks great. I have really enjoyed the freedom plate with rails. If you can't find a double hose in your area let me know and I will send you mine. Thanks for the great products.

Ryan

 

[Nemrod]

The above photograph demonstrates the clearance my Freedom Plate provides to a PRAM. Look close and you see the original FP supplied STA--that is no longer there. In it's place is a small pad at the lower position and a cam band alone at the upper position. Now, as stated, Eric made my plate best I know as an experiment and it is as a result unique. I think the rail system is probably a better solution than the one my plate sports but what the heck, I like it nonetheless, I also like the new concept and think it may have great merit not only for minimalist scuba diving but also "vintage" applications with the PRAM.

Also, as stated, the FP shown above is stainless but it weighs about like an aluminum full plate, so, an aluminum FP is going to be very light for an equal thickness.

N, "N" to zen

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

Here's what I need from one of you guys since I have no imediate access to a DH reg with a phoenix. (BTW, thanks guys for offering to send me regs).

If someone could take a 6.9 dia. steel 72 tank and attach the reg on the valve, then take a yard stick or straight edge ruler and lay it on the side of the tank with the reg. Place the beginning of the numbers on the ruler at the base of the can so I can see how far it is from the can to the shoulder of the tank. I also want to see the distance how far the can sticks out from the side line or plane of the tank.
This will tell me how thick to make a bracket, or if there even needs to be a bracket. I want to be able to drop the tank down as far as it needs to go while using a phoenix and to make sure the can doesn't hit the plate.
I'd like to get the can down so the top is flush with the top of the plate, or is this too low?

The other thing I wanted to respond to was the idea of cutting away a loop for the can to fit in closer. This seems odd because if part of the plate is cut away to make room for the can wouldn't it then rub on your back?

Thanks

 

[james croft]

I don't mind the can touching my back.

 

[Luis H]

I'd like to get the can down so the top is flush with the top of the plate, or is this too low?

The other thing I wanted to respond to was the idea of cutting away a loop for the can to fit in closer. This seems odd because if part of the plate is cut away to make room for the can wouldn't it then rub on your back?

Thanks

That may be a bit low. I normally like the top of the back pack about half way up the can. I guess that this can vary with different packs as long as the can is between your shoulder blades.



The back pack with the center cut out I think used to be referred to as the dog-bone back pack. I personally don't like it because the straps are far apart. I like the straps to originate from the center of my back, otherwise I feel like I need a sternum strap. I don't mind using a sternum strap, but the straps far apart is not ideal IMO.

 

[Nemrod]

Here's what I need from one of you guys since I have no imediate access to a DH reg with a phoenix. (BTW, thanks guys for offering to send me regs).

If someone could take a 6.9 dia. steel 72 tank and attach the reg on the valve, then take a yard stick or straight edge ruler and lay it on the side of the tank with the reg. Place the beginning of the numbers on the ruler at the base of the can so I can see how far it is from the can to the shoulder of the tank. I also want to see the distance how far the can sticks out from the side line or plane of the tank.
This will tell me how thick to make a bracket, or if there even needs to be a bracket. I want to be able to drop the tank down as far as it needs to go while using a phoenix and to make sure the can doesn't hit the plate.
I'd like to get the can down so the top is flush with the top of the plate, or is this too low?

The other thing I wanted to respond to was the idea of cutting away a loop for the can to fit in closer. This seems odd because if part of the plate is cut away to make room for the can wouldn't it then rub on your back?

Thanks

I don't wear my tank as low as some people do --cave man style---knuckles dragging--lol.

With a steel 72 the Phoenix will touch your back, with an aluminum 80 or other 7.25 tank it does not or at least sits in a normal position. If you don't have the measurements you need I will get them when I get home this evening.

Usually, with most plates including my Freedom Plate the top of the plate is approximately 1/3 up the can, sometimes 1/2 but it depends somewhat on the plate, the tank and the individual.

Voit Snug Pack:

I don't think a cutaway is needed for a single tank plate, JMO. Compromising the Freedom Plate to much for double hose may ruin it as a more general purpose plate. As good as my Freedom Plate works with a double hose it is even better with those new fangled plastic regulators some people are known to use.

N

 

[HenrikBP]

I think the pad at the lower cam band sounds like a good idea - if it's even necessary.

The pad could be made to slip over the cam band which would keep the pad in place without having to bolt it to the plate, thus eliminating corrosion issues.

If the fit of the cam band in the pad was tight enough, the pad would also help keep the wing in place, possibly making for easier tank mounting.

If the tank facing side of the pad was curved to fit the tank, it would help further stabilize the tank.

Just throwing ideas out there.

Henrik