Type of Steel Tanks?

[Divemstr13]

Rick _
How old was the cracked tank ? Where was the crack located ? I guess that epoxy is pretty good if it's that hard to get off.

 

[Divemstr13]

Rick -
A while back OMS had some boots that did not have adaquate drainage, could that be why you had that problem ? I hear that that problem has been resolved with the new boots. I got my new Faber's thru a dive shop that buys from SubaLux and it has a good draining boot. They also are the only ones that can order the custom graphics.

 

[WetDane]

Wannabe -
They are different manufacturers - with different processes - it is comonly believed that brand X is better than anything else - I'm no scientist and have no hard data so I will not go into that.

However - a couple of observations:

it appears that serious tech divers primarily dive Pressed steel (pst) LP104s, you will also see some diving OMS - this is a Faber tank with a different sticker.
Pst is preferred by many becasue it has better buoyancy charecteristics (ok, I butchered the spelling on that) than most others.

Price wise - if you can get them a little cheaper - great - BUT, understand that steel tanks cost a fortune to ship (uhm, they are HEAVY) and are pricey to start - so the shops are not making any money on them - we are talking $25 here... Much better for them to sell you an AL.

As far as the discussion of rust - inside or out - I did not see any hard facts about causes or specific brands being better than others - this I would think is merely opinion, you will always be able to find people for or against something...

The next thoguht I would have is your application - you suggest that you could just get an AL80 - if that is the case, you probably should, pst LP104's are reserved for technical diving - but they are definitely something you don't see on recreational divers everyday. Now if you were to state that you are planning to get into semi techical cold water diving and planning to pursue a GUE Tech1 certification - the ONLY tanks recommended is the PST LP104's.

Oh - and for hte record - I have LP104's - rust? what rust, they are galvanized... And it is not because it looks nice - it is because my buddies an tell me apart from the people who think graphics on the tank makes it a better tank...

Good luck - let us know what you end up with...
Big T

 

[Divemstr13]

Wet -
My point was that interior was the priority, exterior was secondary, and graphics where just a nice added option. Your tanks aren't hot galvinized dipped on the inside are they ? he he he

 

[WetDane]

Ahh yes,
you're so right - my tanks are not ho dipped on the inside - but then again - I don't usually put any water in them either so it seems to not be a big issue - consider that I dive on clean dry air only and therefore the issue of rust inside a tank is pretty much a moot point to start with - I sure hope it is for you too as you should not be putting water in your tank - but hey - each to his own...


Big T

 

[Divemstr13]

Not all shops sell quality air. Some have been known to contain moisture. ( a big problem in geographic areas with high humidity ) I have had the pleasure to clean out filters when I worked in a dive shop and it comes out like Farina. If they dont do regular maint. on the filters the Farina substance can make it into their banks and wahla moisture in your air. Some people possibly not knowing any better may let their tanks sit empty , which as you well know can contribute to interior rust if the valve was left open.

 

[WetDane]

Well, I am with you on that one - I guess I am pretty spoiled since I have good air - not all shops around here do (we are mainly concerned with oil though).
I guess it perhaps comes down to just how well you take care of your tanks - and that is a personal habit thing I think and not something you can prescribe -

Big T

 

[Rick Murchison]

My OMS's are my newest tanks - less than four years old. The boots have a silver-dollar sized drain hole in the bottom, so I don't think that's a problem - and the rust was on one tank of a set of doubles - so they've always been in the same conditions since they were brand new. From the looks of it, it was just a sorry paint job in the first place, which doesn't make me a happy camper.
I knew painted steel always runs the risk of hidden rust, but still I was surprised at the extent of this. No telling how long the rust had been going on under the paint before the crack appeared.
Live and learn - clear epoxy is the way to go - I'll be able to see anything under the paint now.
And when I finish the job they're getting an early hydro.
Rick

 

[Bob]

Rick,
I applied two coats of clear expoxy on my new steel tanks before they ever hit the water. So far so good. I hope your fix works :tree:Bob.

 

[Rick Murchison]

Anybody know if a zinc anti-corrosion block will work for steel like it does for aluminum?
Just a thought.
Rick