Slow Leak in Tank Valve

[redacted]

I've seen plenty of O-rings leak from the valve seat. So I know what to look for there. This is a slow leak so it's hard to detect. Sitting in a hot garage spraying a tank with soapy water was starting to get the people concerned. ha. I sprayed right after it was filled too (slightly overfilled) and didn't see bubles then either. That's what makes me think it's not the valve seat because it's where I sprayed. I'll try the valve knob as Tbone suggested.

FWIW - I'm really not concerned about my LDS. I'm a friend with the manager and we get along fine. But he gets very busy this time of year with customers (demanding rich people - I live near Sarasota). I respect that. I'll gladly pay for another VIP and he'll let me borrow a tank.
It's really just me wanting to know so I can fix it myself. Appreciate the help guys!

I can't upload a pic for some reason but it's the standard Faber Blue Steel Valve.
Blue Steel Faber Low Pressure Steel Tank

1000 psi per week is 3 to 4 cu ft per day. Put the tank in a tub and you should have no trouble seeing the bubbles. Troubleshoot first; then repair.

 

[tbone1004]

what he said, find it first, but I'd stick a reg on and open it up, if it's what I think it is it will likely get worse when the valve is opened but you need the reg on to listen for it. Bath tub is good option as well. If you have to rebuild that valve, rebuild all matching valves at the same time to keep everything in sync

 

[grf88]

If the neck o-ring is good, then there are no O-rings involved. It would be better if you had someone show you, but it is most likely the valve seat. You should be able to detect bubbles coming from the fac of the valve.

As dumpsterDiver has said, if the valve is closed then it can only be leaking at the seat or the neck o-ring. The stem o-ring only comes into play when the valve is open and a regulator attached.

 

[diverintheflesh]

that's not always true. it can be leaking at the burst disk...

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[grf88]

that's not always true. it can be leaking at the burst disk...

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You are correct but that usually only happens immediately after service if the disk assembly has not been properly torqued.

 

[dumpsterDiver]

As dumpsterDiver has said, if the valve is closed then it can only be leaking at the seat or the neck o-ring. The stem o-ring only comes into play when the valve is open and a regulator attached.

yeah i forgot the burst disk - which is actually pretty common.

 

[Water Boy76]

Wow great info. Thanks guys. I took off valve this AM and noticed some chips in the paint where valve seats. They are small but it's a slow leak.
What's best way to clean that up? It's epoxy white faber. With AL I sand with Emory paper. Any ideas?[MENTION][/MENTION]

 

[widget]

1000 psi per week is 3 to 4 cu ft per day. Put the tank in a tub and you should have no trouble seeing the bubbles. Troubleshoot first; then repair.

Agree, its quite a fair amount there should be tell tale bubbles.

The valve you have there (from the picture) looks like the Italian manufactured San o Sub valve, its just branded as "Whoever".

Faber Italy gets all their tank valves from San o Sub. these are high quality valves and as easy as pie to repair.

So either way its a really simple repair but you will most likely have to drain the cylinder. For a neck O ring the repair is obvious, drain the tank, spin off the valve, replace the O ring, spin it back, tighten up and Bobs your uncle.

The Valve seats sealing face on these valves often suffer indentations from either overuse or constantly tightening down the valve too tightly, often a slight leak means someone just tightens the handle a bit more and it goes away for a while as the sealing face seals again, but eventually it will need replacing. It may take you 15 minutes to do everything if you work very slowly.

Personally I would just wipe everything down, unless its corroded you dont need to do any major cleaning. Getting a repair kit is the best but if not, just a valve seat usually will sort out the leak.
Drain the tank, remove the handle and spring arrangement, undo the sealing bonnet nut, remove the spindle and unscrew the valve seat. Replace the seat, (you can put a light smear of good silicone paste / grease on the valve seat threads or not), I usually do as it just makes life "smoother" but its up to you, put everything back together in reverse order and enjoy a beer.

Job done.

I repeat again, Drain the tank completely before you do any work on the valve, work methodically and you will be fine.

I would say its unlikely the burst disc, they are designed to "burst" not leak but anythings possible, just get a new kit and replace the disc if necessary.

 

[diverintheflesh]

well? did you do it?

 

[BRT]

As dumpsterDiver has said, if the valve is closed then it can only be leaking at the seat or the neck o-ring. The stem o-ring only comes into play when the valve is open and a regulator attached.

Or the overpressure disk. I've seen that the most.