EAN40 Tank Valve Thread Lube

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I use 90 duro buna for everything except oxygen bottles. Those get EPDM Orings.
If you are doing annual VIPs and changing the neck oring, buna will last through the year, but you will notice it is rather hard and dry on oxygen cylinders.
I never lube valve threads. It makes a mess and there is no upside to it in fresh water.
 
Well you don't need any lube and viton orings aren't exactly hard to source.
But becoming the statistic you are looking for would really suck.
OK...first I was taught that you put a small amount of lube on bottom threads of tank valve before screwing those straight threads into the tank; not of course on static o-ring....perhaps that has been proven to be in error?

I understand Viton o-rings are not difficult to source and the purported threat of injury due to not following the opinions on EAN40 reacting like 100% oxygen to combustibles.... I will adjudge the facts and take responsibility for my own safety....so far no facts establishing that danger.

FYI....from my past, but here is loosely the scientific method. This applicable to all diving and specifically to the original question I asked:
Is there any documented combustion in a scuba tank or regulator due to the tank being filled with EAN40? Or we can continue to conjecture and produce unsubstantiated guesses. I am not looking for statistics but proofs. I may be wrong and will change my evaluation if proof of EAN40 reacting like 100% oxygen in scuba gear is presented. Hey "The Truth Is Out There". :cool:

  1. Observation: Noticing something interesting or unexplained.
  2. Question: Asking a question about the observation.
  3. Hypothesis: Forming a possible explanation or answer to the question.
  4. Experiment: Designing and conducting experiments to test the hypothesis.
  5. Analysis: Analyzing the data collected during the experiment to see if they support or refute the hypothesis.
  6. Conclusion: Drawing a conclusion based on the analysis.
  7. Report: Sharing the results with others for review and further testing.

No more from me and thanks for the discussion; will read comments incase the answers to my questions are forthcoming.

DSO
 
I'm dead against mess

Immediately you rub brass together no matter the grease you get black gloopy mess

OK...first I was taught that you put a small amount of lube on bottom threads of tank valve before screwing those straight threads into the tank; not of course on static o-ring....perhaps that has been proven to be in error?

Ok the bottom couple of tank threads rust, if you put grease all you get is more mess
If you never pull your valves fill your tanks alminium tanks with seawater grease helps
My tank orings feel happier, with a sniff of lube as I do that final tighten, with a mallet
I do have funny ideas about oring stretch, which I'm sure centralises as you pressurise


When I'm taught stuff I research then do what's best, whether I was taught that or not

Hey don't those valve seat things come with green permanent lube cooked in anyway
 
You do not NEED viton or ox-grease on EAN40. You may use NBR o-rings and silicone grease.

You can easily blow EAN40 through your compressor, nothing happens. A compressor is much more aggressive than a cylinder.

I do not use viton o-rings at all. I find viton is not as durable as NBR. I use NBR even on 100% oxygen 330 bar=4'800 psi, this works perfectly fine.

Higher than 40% you must use ox-grease.

Those are facts. Beside this you find a lot of myths.
 
I'm dead against mess

Immediately you rub brass together no matter the grease you get black gloopy mess



Ok the bottom couple of tank threads rust, if you put grease all you get is more mess
If you never pull your valves fill your tanks alminium tanks with seawater grease helps
My tank orings feel happier, with a sniff of lube as I do that final tighten, with a mallet
I do have funny ideas about oring stretch, which I'm sure centralises as you pressurise


When I'm taught stuff I research then do what's best, whether I was taught that or not

Hey don't those valve seat things come with green permanent lube cooked in anyway


Happy-Diver I have always enjoyed your posts....often I can't decode them, but still enjoy them... [like "seawater grease"]

I have never seen rust on valve threads....could happen I guess, but again no observed rust after servicing a lot of bottles..

I smear [wet them] the slightest amount of DOW 111 on dynamic O-rings [regs] but never lube a static O-ring...same on bottom threads of valve, slightest amount that will coat the rest of the threads as you screw in the valve, only to facilitate future removal, not to prevent corrosion or electrolysis from different metals....

Totally concur on deducing what works for you regardless of the chatter from other sources including "instructors" often with less experience than you.....

Am interested in your reference to "green permanent lube cooked in"..... new process or ?

Appreciate new views and escaping the 'echo chamber' of media......
 
You do not need Viton or 100% O2 compatible grease with 40% EAN. However, Viton and 100% O2 compatible greases are convenient for divers who deal with 100% O2.

Thread lubrication is bad for threads in high torque applications. Scuba tank valves are "oomph" tight and you can use Tribolube 66 or similar grease designed for static applications.
 

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