Slow Leak in Tank Valve

[Water Boy76]

I have a slow leak in one of my valves. It's loosing around 1,000 PSI a week. I've sprayed the neck with soapy water and don't see any bubbles. I'm assuming it's a leaking O ring somewhere else.

Q: How difficult is it to take valve apart, clean and put back together. There can't be too much to it - right? Of course I can take to the shop but a part of me want to do it myself to learn how it's done.
Are there any tricks I should know about? Assume I know nothing, because I do know nothing. Also, is there a place I can order the O-rings or kits?

FWIW it's a Faber Pro Valve that come's standard with the steel tanks. The nut holding the on/off knob looks a bit strange?

Thx.

 

[diverintheflesh]

piece of cake

Sent from my XT1045 using Tapatalk

---------- Post added June 18th, 2015 at 10:22 PM ----------

no specialty tools required. crescent wrench and vinegar

Sent from my XT1045 using Tapatalk

 

[dumpsterDiver]

If the neck o-ring is good, then there are no O-rings involved. It would be better if you had someone show you, but it is most likely the valve seat. You should be able to detect bubbles coming from the fac of the valve.

 

[tbone1004]

well that's to get it off, won't fix the problem though.

Unlikely you need to break the valve down actually, put a regulator on it and open it up. Spray the inside of the valve knob and look for bubbles. It might be just the external o-ring that can be replaced without removing the valve. Keep in mind that servicing a valve while not requiring any special tools or anything might cause you to have to revip the tank if the shop asks why it is empty, so if you're due in the next few months that's fine, but be aware. Check frogkick, they might have some generic valve service guides there. Most irritating part is getting the valve knob off which requires a notched screwdriver. Go to Harbor Freight, get one as wide as the knob screw, can't remember how big it is, then notch it with a grinding wheel or file

 

[redacted]

All such leaks produce bubbles. Before you do anything, find out where the bubbles are coming from.

 

[diverintheflesh]

I can show you how to rebuild it as long as it was built in the last 20 years. LOL some of those old valves are funky. I've been cleaning valves lately as I rebuild a set of doubles. most of the time a good cleaning is the key. if it takes a week to lose the pressure, you might not see the leak. DON'T let a dive shop sell you a new visual. that is crap! worse case scenario, tell them you bumped the valve knob on the way to your dive site and it all leaked out. you might be able to salvage the tank oring too. if it was changed on your last vis, just throw it in some hot water and relube it before reapplying it. screw it in hand tight, then give the knob a smack

---------- Post added June 18th, 2015 at 10:51 PM ----------

post a picture of the valve...

I have a slow leak in one of my valves. It's loosing around 1,000 PSI a week. I've sprayed the neck with soapy water and don't see any bubbles. I'm assuming it's a leaking O ring somewhere else.

Q: How difficult is it to take valve apart, clean and put back together. There can't be too much to it - right? Of course I can take to the shop but a part of me want to do it myself to learn how it's done.
Are there any tricks I should know about? Assume I know nothing, because I do know nothing. Also, is there a place I can order the O-rings or kits?

FWIW it's a Faber Pro Valve that come's standard with the steel tanks. The nut holding the on/off knob looks a bit strange?

Thx.

 

[Water Boy76]

I've seen plenty of O-rings leak from the valve seat. So I know what to look for there. This is a slow leak so it's hard to detect. Sitting in a hot garage spraying a tank with soapy water was starting to get the people concerned. ha. I sprayed right after it was filled too (slightly overfilled) and didn't see bubles then either. That's what makes me think it's not the valve seat because it's where I sprayed. I'll try the valve knob as Tbone suggested.

FWIW - I'm really not concerned about my LDS. I'm a friend with the manager and we get along fine. But he gets very busy this time of year with customers (demanding rich people - I live near Sarasota). I respect that. I'll gladly pay for another VIP and he'll let me borrow a tank.
It's really just me wanting to know so I can fix it myself. Appreciate the help guys!

I can't upload a pic for some reason but it's the standard Faber Blue Steel Valve.
Blue Steel Faber Low Pressure Steel Tank

 

[diverintheflesh]

here's a generic schematic / exploded diagram of a tank valve... pretty easy...

 

[Water Boy76]

Is it possible to take the valve apart, clean, and replace with existing parts? Or is that a no no?

Knowing my luck I will do all this to find that it was the valve stem O ring all along. But that's how I roll, and maybe I'll learn something?

 

[diverintheflesh]

if you take it apart and can't find the problem, then bring it to a technician, but I think you can do it...

Sent from my XT1045 using Tapatalk