Sidemount - SPG and Transmitter - HP Splitter? Button SPG?

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Happy Halloween!

I hope SPGs are also Florida style forward facing lollipops. With the transmitter extension they can now reach the mask and act like two nerds - one into each eye!

:gas:

View attachment 867974
Points of failure - 9 o-rings per side, two hoses. Failures so far - 3 hose failures, 2 transmitter failures, 2 shattered gauge faces. Upgrades - Stainless steel hoses, Swift transmitters. Aborted dives - ZERO
 
Did some searching and found SPG vs. AI transmitter discussions for a variety of configurations, but not much specifically on setting up sidemount regs for both SPG and AI transmitters.

My initial preference is to have both SPG and transmitter on each tank, but I'd be comfortable with just one or the other if that makes more sense.
On a serious note, here are some threads for you, but bottom line is that there is nothing special about SM, choose one (spg or ai) and go with it.


if you go with spgs, I personally found the usual way of checking gas in SM annoying (I am a minority when it comes to that, most people dont really care) and I made all my spgs stage style (here is a pic for you if you are not familiar with it). Just something to play around with for you
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if you want to go into caves, you might want to take sm course from a cave instructor so your gear will be streamlined to begin with and you won't have to make any modifications down the road. I would also caution against taking advice from people whose sm rig looks like that (no offence to anybody):

1730401660977.png
 
My initial preference is to have both SPG and transmitter on each tank, but I'd be comfortable with just one or the other if that makes more sense. Leaning toward using an AI transmitter on a short HP hose with QD fittings (in the typical SPG position) plus a button SPG on the opposite side.
Both is overkill. Pick one or the other.

As for me, I don't bother with a short hose. I screw my transmitter directly into one HP fitting and put a button gauge on the other side.

(Cue the "button gauges are stupid" chorus.)
 
I have button SPG and transmitter in my SM config. It is easier to check pressure from button SPG before dive and it is unnoticeable when diving. And transmitter is so easy in total dark waters.
 
I use both an SPG and a transmitter.

My final solution for a while now is to use a hp splitter in one of the HP ports of the first stage.
Since the splitter (apeks) can turn quite easily you do not want to out any hose to the turning port because otherwise it would turn (what a surprise) and with the hose it would stick out downwards, you definietly dont want that.
But if you just put your transmitter into that moveable port it would save from from anybody’s attempt to grab it. (Because its movement made in basically impossible to grab it and lift up the tank with it.)
On the straight going port I put a short (6”) hose with the SPG on it, so I can easily look at it if ever needed, exactly the same way if there was an SPG only.

This way you have 2 redundant system (I don’t say you NEED this, I’m perfectly fine if somebody says it unneccessary.), it is quite streamlined, no snagging hazard. If I wouldnt find this working solution, I would have dropped the SPGs altogether.
 
Pick one. If one transmitter goes poopy and IF you have been balancing your tanks you have a pretty good idea what’s in it Switch to working one. Breathe for a set time. Then breathe the dead transmitter side same amount of time. Chances are you’ll finish the dive with balanced gas volumes. You know how much you have when they failed. ****If your dive is a *planned *dive its a minor annoyance.

I would keep diving a rec dive* on plan with 1 dead transmitter. Call it for a tech/cave dive. Any failed gear. (*assuming you planned your dive)

Not worth making my regs more complicated. Dive tomorrow.
 
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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