Servicing your own regulator.
- Thread starter Medicdiver0125
- Start date
Please register or login
...wins on both points.
OP
Medicdiver0125
Contributor
It is kind of funny that when I started this thread my regs were out getting serviced. Well I got them back and my Apeks are free flowing. Granted I can stop it but only with the inhalation adjustment turned all the way in. So now I have to send them all the way back to Texas( free of charge of course ) to be adjusted because I don't know what they did to cause this, I have an idea but since I did not do the rebuild I can't be sure. So now I will learn how to do it myself. If I can't trust myself with my gear I should not be using it.
Bubbletrubble
Contributor
@Medicdiver0125: So you sent your regs off to ScubaToys, eh?
Please tell me that you own an i.p. gauge...and that you've already checked whether the i.p. on your newly serviced first stage is within a normal range.
No matter how good the reg tech is the seats in the reg setup will "settle" over time. This happens even after I overhaul my own reg. Assuming that the i.p. is OK, this is a simple fix. All this requires is a little tuning of the crown orifice on the second stage. No special tools are needed. First, set the inhalation adjustment knob to its easiest setting prior to any tuning (max flow). The reason you do this is so that you ensure no freeflows within the operating range of the adjustment knob. You will need a couple of appropriately-sized wrenches to take off/remount the second stage from the reg hose in order to gain access to the crown orifice. You'll also need a flathead screwdriver to turn the crown orifice. Make sure that you press in the purge button while you are turning the crown orifice, otherwise you might cut into the soft seat. I recommend turning the orifice by only turning the screwdriver a little at a time (not more than 1/8 of a turn). For tuning, you should have a tank on hand to help you pressurize the system and do freeflow checks, subjective breathing tests, cracking pressure tests, etc. It's best to test the reg under two different conditions: on a full tank (3000-3500 psi) and on a nearly empty tank (300-500 psi). This tuning procedure shouldn't take too long to perform. Essentially, you'll turn the orifice a little, attach the reg to the hose (by hand is OK and makes it easy to detach if you have to repeat these steps), pressurize the system, check for freeflows. Then depressurize the system, detach the second stage from the reg hose, fiddle with the orifice, etc. Repeat as necessary until the reg is tuned to your preference. I prefer to tune the second stage so that it's just on the edge of freeflow with the breathing adjustment knob turned all the way out (max flow). YMMV. After tuning, remember to use both wrenches when tightening the union between the second stage and the reg hose. Don't overtighten it. If you do, you can crack the plastic case.
This tuning procedure is covered in the official tech repair manual. Before doing any of the outlined procedure above, study the manual. It's very straightforward.
Mr Carcharodon
Contributor
Well I'd check the intermediate pressure first and make sure it is in spec. If it is ok I'd try turning in the orifice a bit. To do that pull the hose and front coverplate off and depress the demand lever. The turn the orifice in an eigth of a turn at most. Put every thing back together and see it the leak is gone. Iterate until it is just not leaking. Then measure the cracking pressure and write it down for reference.
halocline
Contributor
No offense, but if you're a scuba instructor and you believe that regulator failure in recreational diving results in death to the diver, you should immediately quit teaching and tear up your card. I say that because you seem to be forgetting the whole concept of buddy system diving and air sharing, which is part of every OW course I presume you have taught. So, you've taught your students how to survive an OOA situation, now you're essentially telling them...wait, no, I lied, if your regulator fails you will die.
So which is it? Can your students use the buddy system or not? Can they share air or not?
That's very interesting to hear, about regs returning from Scubatoys freeflowing. I saw three firsts and four second stages serviced by them recently, and one second stage was freeflowing right out of the box,without any dives. According to the sheet, they set the cracking pressure to 1 or 1.1 inches of water.
I'd love to hear from you other regulator repair people with far more experience than I and with a magnehelic, manometer, or sink and ruler, about what cracking pressure you typically set regulators to. Also, if any of you routinely check, if setting an initial cracking pressure a bit high and an IP a bit low, evens out to what you consider the proper setting (I know some manuals specify exact settings but usually give a small range, and some people tend to adjust to one end of that range) for your personal regs after a few dives. Or, do you own that nifty two piston regulator "set in" tool? Perhaps breathing from one reg while rebuilding another?
I'd love to hear from you other regulator repair people with far more experience than I and with a magnehelic, manometer, or sink and ruler, about what cracking pressure you typically set regulators to. Also, if any of you routinely check, if setting an initial cracking pressure a bit high and an IP a bit low, evens out to what you consider the proper setting (I know some manuals specify exact settings but usually give a small range, and some people tend to adjust to one end of that range) for your personal regs after a few dives. Or, do you own that nifty two piston regulator "set in" tool? Perhaps breathing from one reg while rebuilding another?
Scared Silly
Contributor
OP
Medicdiver0125
Contributor
Ya Jah they said the cracking pressure was at 1.1 and it free flowed right out of the box.
And according to apeks it should be .9-1.1
I do have a IP gauge and that is set at 135.
Thanks for the instruction I will try that and see what happens, the worst case is I have to send it back or go to my LDS.
Thanks
And according to apeks it should be .9-1.1
I do have a IP gauge and that is set at 135.
Thanks for the instruction I will try that and see what happens, the worst case is I have to send it back or go to my LDS.
Thanks
Fishpie. I've been delayed surfing my keyboard unsuccessfully.
This is what I've got. Different faces for different places.
No such KM luck. The spg is branded "aqua dive" a standard Uwatec, but you didn't need to order too many back then to get something printed inside.
Who knows where it was made, printed, assembled. Boot made in Taiwan.
Obviously the Omega II came later, but the best bit is the Awapaphragm
at the very bottom of the photo. Slab of rubber to print 50 equals 1 dollar.
Eyelet thing comes supplied. I'm cheap not nasty.
Mr Medicdiver0125, you may have found out already a 5mm Allen key.
Maybe.
Sehr gut.
Similar threads
