Servicing my own gear

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wizbangdoodle

Registered
Messages
57
Reaction score
6
Location
Washington State
# of dives
1000 - 2499
Looking for opinions and advice here. After a long conversation with the boss, she told me I should service our own regs and other gear. I did service on regs many moons ago and am familiar with the general process, but looking to get some specifics. I will be purchasing the test equipment needed and an ultra-sonic cleaner. I figure I'll be into the test gear and tools at somewhere between $1000-1500. Considering that we drop about $400 every time we have our stuff serviced, it should pay for itself after the 3rd time.

What I'd like to know from you guys that service your own regs, what test equipment and tools do you recommend? I have and Atomic Aquatics B2 and my wife has a SP G250 with a Mk25. Also have AIRII's on our BC's. Also, best source for parts?
 
good lord, why so expensive? Also make sure you can get parts.... Scubapro is particularly nasty aout that so make sure you can get them before you commit. Atomics you can buy from Dive Gear Express and some other sources iirc

2.5 Liter Ultrasonic Cleaner
one of these, especially when they are running the 20% or 50% off coupons

Scubapro special tools
specialty tools that you may or may not need there for scubapro. I'm not that familiar with scubapro's service

bunch of other standard tools on the SCT website that you may or may not need. Maybe a magnehelic, but those aren't really required, just save some time in adjustment, don't need an inline tool either though they make it more convenient. dig around on that website to see what parts you need after looking at the service manuals to see which tools you actually need. Everything else you can find at harbor freight or sears
 
Lol, expensive is right, which is why it's taken so long to swallow this pill. My problem is, I'm a bit anal retentive and tend to think I'll pay more attention to my gear than someone else. I also have the mindset of "if I'm going to jump in, I might as well go all the way".

Thanks for the suggestions. I just ordered the book Regulator Savvy today and was also looking at this: A.I.R. Flow Analyzer, Four SpinOns, & Floating Wall Bracket Assy

I know that's a big chunk of change, but I want to do this right. I'd rather have these tools and test equipment than wishing I had gotten them when it gets to be later down the road. Besides, since the boss has opened the wallet, I'm going to spend like a drunken sailor. :)
 
That tool is unnecessary in a DIY situation. It would be appropriate for a professional shop doing high volume.

I use an IP gauge and a tub of water. I do have a magnetic but do not use it. I recently gave my in-line gauge to a friend. The on-line will not work with Air2s. And I set my adjustable 2nds to a slight leak so I know I am getting best performance. I would rather feel and hear the performance than see it on a very expensive, marginally useful gauge.

The only unique service part you will need is the Mk25 HP seat. Everything else is standard o-rings and parts available from a number of sources
 
Thanks for the input awap. I'd be interested in hearing your process for cleaning and tuning. Also, do you have any specific sources you use for your parts? I would need nitrox compatible.
 
It has been a while since I have made a purchase of o-ring but this is a good place to start. air-oil.com

Might kit are available on ebay but some of those sellers are a bit proud. Shop and watch. Some generic kits and parts can be found here:. http://vintagedoublehose.com

Reg Savey is a great book with lots of detailed info. But SCUBA REGULATOR MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR by Vance Harlow
is a bit broader and more comprehensive for the DIYer.

When I tune diver adjustable 2nds, I set the back knob full open and tune the orifice to stop leak. Then I give the orifice adjustment another 30 degree turn so there is a slight leak. That leak should stop after a half turn on the user adjustment. If not, then I make another very small adjustment on the orifice. Not the kind of thing you should do with a customer's gear but good for friends and family.
 
i had to buy an ultrasonic cleaner ($150 canuck) and an ip pressure gauge (online purchase as my LDS would not sell me one - idiots) and i scrounged a fine thread bolt from a local industrial supplier for my first stage mounting tool. no other specialty tools required.

i have old school sherwood regs so i grabbed a handfull of service kits off ebay. service manual was on frogkick.

i once ended up buying a complete used reg set on ebay inorder to get a replacement piston as my LDS screwed up one of our regs (this is what caused me to service my own gear).

so far i am not dead. our gear works just fine. i rent a tank once a year from my LDS when i check the regs...
 
I approach it similar to awap it would seem. You need an ultrasonic, a few specialty tools, probably less than $100, a known source for specialty reg parts, and some good O-rings. You don't need Magnehelics and all the rest of that very high end shop stuff.
Regs need to be clean, appropriate parts replaced, (which is often way less than prescribed), tuned to appropriate IP, then 2nd stage tuned to crack just a little under the 'not-leak' stage. I used to use the tub of water to check cracking pressure but don't even bother with that anymore.

Story about that - I overhauled my wife's Scubapro MK20/250HP. It worked fine. But I had the option (for free) of having a professional tune the 2nd stage with a magnehelic. Sure, why not. Seemed about the same subjectively when we got done but otherwise was fine. A week later we went diving and I had to re-tune it because it was leaking a little. This is not an uncommon problem/complaint on newly overhauled regs. 2nd stage seat takes a bit of a set just sitting and now it leaks, when it didn't when tuned with a pristine seat. A tiny adjustment and it's fine again, generally done in the field if you know what you are doing. I've done quite a few for people.

You can be 'making money' on the first overhaul. You really don't need $1000+ worth of tools. They don't improve the outcome. For a shop they improve efficiency that saves money in the long run. Not needed at the home overhaul level.
 
My biggest concern is getting the parts needed to do this work. As far as I know, neither Atomic or Scubapro uses unique o-rings. I remember years ago when I was rebuilding a Beuchat for a customer and I had to use an off the shelf o-ring. I could not get that reg right until another tech told me it has to be a Beuchat o-ring.
 
Not familiar with the Atomic - but I am a Scubapro trained technician. For the Mk25 - tools, you'll need the following (specialty) tools:
  • Scubapro Multifunction tool is convenient (or an appropriate pin spanner and other allen wrenches).
  • 22 mm socket
  • 6pt 1 inch socket
  • 7/32 allen adapter
  • field handle (screws into the HP port to hold the reg body)
  • Mk25 bushing tool
  • piston bullet tool
  • soft brass picks.
  • a torque wrench
  • cristolube (or tribolube)
  • a service kit
  • an accurate IP gauge to set the IP to 145 at with a supply of 500 psi.

For the G 250, the following will be needed.

  • Scubapro Multifunction tool is convenient (or other allen wrenches and poppet diver).
  • an inline adjustment tool
  • ball end allen wrench
  • flowvane removal tool
  • soft brass pick set
  • A magnahelic - if you are going to accurately set the cracking pressure to factory spec.

To clean parts - I prefer a professional grade ultrasonic cleaner with GMC Ultrasonic Cleaner Solution. The HF cleaner (which I also owned) - will take many times longer - if it works at all. I'd buy a used Dental cleaner on eBay: L&R and Branson are good brands - if I could find a good one for about $150.
 

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