Servicing Xstreams at home - Tips and Tricks?

[MBaadsgaard]

Background
Hey there all. I've been diving for a bit over a year now and got my sidemount certification.
I decided to buy a set of used Xstreams in good condition, because a friend (who has been servicing his own Poseidons for over a decade)
convinced me that servicing is pretty straight forward.

He instructed me to buy a few things, which I did and I have since been reading through the service manuals I could find and a bit in Vance Harlow's "SCUBA Regulator Maintenance and Repair" book.

However, my friend dives older Poseidons that appear to be simpler or maybe he is being a bit loose with requirements.
At least the manual states a few extra things I'm concerned about.

So I'm hoping people can verify my setup/equipment list, maybe give a few pointers and potentially help me out a bit.


Tools
For tools, I have original service kits, an IP gauge, an FS holder and regular spanners, wrenches, allen keys,o-ring picks etc.
I also bought the cheapest bike torque wrench that came with a certificate, we'll get back to that one.
I also have an ultrasonic cleaner with BIOX liquid, nitrile gloves and intent to wash my tools and wipe them down in IPA before use.
I have bought Christo MCG-111 for all lubrication.


Concerns
The service manual states torque values for various parts. My friend doesn't bother with a torque wrench. I got myself one, though, that goes 2Nm-24Nm.
I know it's not precise or great, but I'll use it once or twice a year and the manual states +-1Nm at all the low torque requirements (so up to 33% tolerance)
Additionally, the manual had a torque value for the stem of 20Nm originally, changed to 30Nm in a later revision, so clearly it's passable at a wide range.
My concern here is: Am I missing something, or should this be adequate?

For the BIOX, gloves and Christo lube. I'm thinking I want to keep it oxy clean.
I never used nitrox, but I might. Also, I might also be servicing my own deco stage at some point.
I am not using the Deco service kits for the Poseidons as I just don't dive that often (50 times a year) and will change the o-rings annually.
My concerns here are:
Am I doing enough to avoid hydrocarbon contamination?
Am I doing something dangerous by not buying the oxy-ready service kits?
The manual uses 2 separate kinds of oxy lubes, are they mechanically different or is it just because the christo-quality is too expensive for a professional to splurge on all parts?

Then there are are the specialty tools. For a moment I had a rusty Jetstream in my hands and for disassembly I created my own specialty tool that I 3d printed in nylon. It was strong enough to get a badly neglected assembly apart.

I'm hoping I can get away with something similar around the diaphram, but I have no clear picture of the tool and I'm hesitant to take the regulator half apart to have a look before I have read the whole manual over again and feel I'm ready. Does anyone have pictures of the tool or the internals for me to get a sense for what I'll need?


And lastly. Any gotchas or details I should be aware of before I attempt this ordeal? Any input is appreciated.
Thanks!

 

[Frogman82]

If you are going to use the regulator with high O² mixes (above 80%) then Poseidon recommends that you replace the ball with the ruby ball (if it has the stainless steel one).

I find them pretty easy to service. I have the second stage housing tool from scuba clinic tools, and it makes life a bit easier when disassembling the second stage.

I dont use any other special tools, just allen keys and a lock ring pliers for removing and installing of first stage pin guide assembly.

 

[NDonahue]

I’m just learning myself. I just did my first self- maintenance of an xstream first and didn’t bother with O2 cleaning or the Viton o-rings.

Can you tell me why you’re planning to go through the effort of O2 cleaning if you aren’t going to use O2 compatible o-rings?

Also, I think that the lube you selected is technically not rated for the high pressure that an O2 clean xstream allows. I am not qualified to speak on whether that is a real risk or just a function of Poseidon only allowing the specific lube they tested.

Other, more experienced, people here can maybe weigh in.

 

[MBaadsgaard]

I’m just learning myself. I just did my first self- maintenance of an xstream first and didn’t bother with O2 cleaning or the Viton o-rings.

Can you tell me why you’re planning to go through the effort of O2 cleaning if you aren’t going to use O2 compatible o-rings?

Also, I think that the lube you selected is technically not rated for the high pressure that an O2 clean xstream allows. I am not qualified to speak on whether that is a real risk or just a function of Poseidon only allowing the specific lube they tested.

Other, more experienced, people here can maybe weigh in.

For the O2 cleaning, for good measure, really. Both to feel i can use nitrox should it be an option/beneficial on a trip and so I am ready to tackle my own deco stage later.
From the service book mentioned above and several other sources I've learned that viton o-rings have better (bit not perfect) resistance to O2 degrading them, however it is likely overkill with the amount of use they will see, limited high O2 exposure and frequency of service.

I feel correct lube and proper cleanliness is a bigger risk factor.

About the lube I sure hope it's adequate! It's £56/28g or $60 per oz! It's specifically for high O2 use.
What I don't know is why Poseidon uses 2 different lubes for O2

 

[Angelo Farina]

I think one O2 lube is high pressure tolerant, the other is not.
If you only use Nitrox up to 40% you do not need special O-rings and grease, just normal ones.
Of course when you service your reg it will start clean, but after a few uses with normal "unclean" air tanks, your reg will not be anymore "oxygen clean".
In my opinion you raised a number of fears substantially unfounded and wasted a huge amount of money in Christolube, considering that you will use your reg with unclean air tanks and sometimes with Nitrox at low oxygen percentage..

 

[MBaadsgaard]

If you are going to use the regulator with high O² mixes (above 80%) then Poseidon recommends that you replace the ball with the ruby ball (if it has the stainless steel one).

I find them pretty easy to service. I have the second stage housing tool from scuba clinic tools, and it makes life a bit easier when disassembling the second stage.

I dont use any other special tools, just allen keys and a lock ring pliers for removing and installing of first stage pin guide assembly.

Ah so that's what's with the ball. I think that is mandatory from a note I saw on silentexplorers.com so really hoping that is what I'll find inside.

I'd not be going above 80% though and if I do it's likely a different regulator I'll use for the stage.
It's only for under 40% O2.

Can you tell me which of the special tools from scuba clinic tools you're refering to? Might be of interest! Thanks.

 

[MBaadsgaard]

I think one O2 lube is high pressure tolerant, the other is not.
I you only use Nitrox up to 40% you do not need special O-rings and grease, just normal ones.
Of course when you service your reg it will start clean, but after a few uses with normal "unclean" air tanks, your reg will not be anymore "oxygen clean".
In my opinion you raised a number of fears substantially unfounded and wasted a huge amount of money in Christolube, considering that you will use your reg with unclean air tanks and sometimes with Nitrox at low oxygen percentage..

That's one way to look at it.
Another is that I have lube for a decade anyway and won't have to distinguish between different kinds for different regs.

I'll need to look into the criteria for "O2 clean" and at what point it becomes important. It's not immediately clear to me.
Thanks.

 

[iointerrupt]

However, my friend dives older Poseidons that appear to be simpler or maybe he is being a bit loose with requirements.

If anything, I think the Xstreams are easier to service than the older stuff.

The service manual states torque values for various parts. My friend doesn't bother with a torque wrench.

The first service I did with a torque wrench, then I switched to doing it by hand. I talked to a very experienced regulator tech, who shall remain nameless, that said they just did it all by hand.

That said, there is something to be said for having a developed sense of wrenching first. My partner's idea of fastening is "torque until yield". If you don't have one, use the torque wrench until you develop it.

These things don't live in a high-vibration environment, as long as the parts that need to be tight are tight, they'll be fine.

I'm hoping I can get away with something similar around the diaphram, but I have no clear picture of the tool and I'm hesitant to take the regulator half apart to have a look before I have read the whole manual over again and feel I'm ready.

Only special tool I use on the Xstream first stage, is a custom pin-spanner to get the cap that lives under the diaphragm off (and back on). I don't think you can disassemble/reassemble it any other way. I machined my own, but you can get the official one for $100: Silent Explorers Maple Grove Minnesot United States Online SCUBA

It's just the round part, with 2 pins in it.

 

[tbone1004]

Ah so that's what's with the ball. I think that is mandatory from a note I saw on silentexplorers.com so really hoping that is what I'll find inside.

I'd not be going above 80% though and if I do it's likely a different regulator I'll use for the stage.
It's only for under 40% O2.

Can you tell me which of the special tools from scuba clinic tools you're refering to? Might be of interest! Thanks.

The first stage sockets are required, and the second stage special tool kit is highly recommended.

If you ever intend to have regulators over 40% it is considered best practice to treat all regulators as if they are O2 clean, especially the first stages. The seconds don't matter in terms of being O2 clean or not, but you do not want contamination between O2 clean and non-O2 clean regulators so it is best to just treat it as all or nothing.

 

[Angelo Farina]

That's one way to look at it.
Another is that I have lube for a decade anyway and won't have to distinguish between different kinds for different regs.

I'll need to look into the criteria for "O2 clean" and at what point it becomes important. It's not immediately clear to me.
Thanks.

It is very simple: you need an O2 ckean reg for any mixture containing more than 40% oxygen.