Scubapro MK10 Seat

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If all else fail, and if you think your seat is dead, use couv's technique: screw a small wood screw into it, and pull.
 
I was hoping there was a way short of that but if all else fails, I will. I have replacements.

I am actually converting the MK-10s I purchased to 10+. I managed to get three conversion kits. Converting to the 10+ assures the seat, the most critical part, is common to current, in production 1st stages and hopefully future-proofs me.
 
Did you try "all else"? Soaking? Freezing?
If it were me, I'd wait until I'm sure the seat is dead before doing anything
 
Brother Zung quoted my "if all else fails" procedure. One method I've found that works rather well is to cover your tank valve with one of those plastic/rubber caps they sell at LDS. This will serve as a seal. Poke a small hole directly over the point where air exits the tank valve. Use the yoke and yoke screw to secure the seat retainer in place with the seat pointed at a child or pet. Slowly crack open the tank valve and voila!

I'll try to post a picture later.

Seat removal.png
 
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I was hoping there was a way short of that but if all else fails, I will. I have replacements.

I am actually converting the MK-10s I purchased to 10+. I managed to get three conversion kits. Converting to the 10+ assures the seat, the most critical part, is common to current, in production 1st stages and hopefully future-proofs me.

If you are converting a MK10 to MK10+, you don't use the old seat retainer. You probably know that, but it does mean that you can leave the MK10 seat in the retainer. In fact, I would do just that, because you may very well find that the MK10+ does not live up to your expectations, and you'll want to re-convert it back. I have one conversion kit that I will use someday as an experiment, but the MK10+ does not have a great reputation for IP stability like the MK10. You have to remember that the piston head diameter is smaller than on the MK20/25, and as such there's less force pushing on the piston into the seat. And the piston edge is different than the MK25, although they're both rounded. What this all means is that the MK10+ can have a mushy lock up. Give it a try and let us know how it works out.

The way I get MK10 seats out is simple; I press the bottom of the seat retainer right up against a tank valve, give it a blast, and out it comes. Couv's way is a big improvement over mine, and I will happily start using it. Thanks, Couv!

I have resorted to drilling out a MK15 seat but never a MK5/10.
 
This one was purchased as a MK-10 Plus, It has the new design HP seat in the satin-finished seat retainer cap. The other three are MK-10s that I have the upgrade kits for.

I figured I would start with the One that was already a 10+ so I could get a look at what I was dealing with.
 
Brother Zung quoted my "if all else fails" procedure. One method I've found that works rather well is to cover your tank valve with one of those plastic/rubber caps they sell at LDS. This will serve as a seal. Poke a small hole directly over the point where air exits the tank valve. Use the yoke and yoke screw to secure the seat retainer with the in place with the seat pointed at a child or pet. Slowly crack open the tank valve and voila!

I'll try to post a picture later.

View attachment 414442


Now that is clever!
 
I definitely would not mess with 127 psi as long as you are still looking at at least 120 @ 500psi. I usually try to set my 1sts in the 125 to 130 range. Even the 120 might work just fine. That is one where I might consider slipping a washer onto the seat retainer rather than going through the disassembly needed to add a washer.

I think you should sign up as V 2.0
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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