dpwheeler
Registered
Can anyone tell me the correct way to remove the seat from a MK10? I suspect it is done through the small hole in the back of the seat housing. but thought I'd check here first. Thanks - DW
Scubapro MK10 Seat
- Thread starter dpwheeler
- Start date
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Zung
Contributor
Yes, compressed air thru the hole - I use a hand pump for bicycle. In case of resistance, put the retainer with the seat in the freezer for a while and it'll come off easily, the plastic shrinks more than the metal.
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R
redacted
Guest
While it is possible to go with no shims, as a DIYer who hates to waste a hard to come by seat, I often still use shims. While a shop tech would probably change the seat to raise of lower IP, I will use the seat I selected and make the adjustment with shims if possible. It is more work for me to do that but it conserves seats.
BTW, I don't remove a seat from the retainer until I am sure I want to replace (or flip) it. Once removed, it is pretty hard to reinstall in the same position to avoid cutting a 2nd ring which will reduce performance. I tend to get 3 to 5 years out of a seat so I may end up relubing and maybe even replacing some dynamic o-rings a couple times before the seat needs to be replaced.
BTW, I don't remove a seat from the retainer until I am sure I want to replace (or flip) it. Once removed, it is pretty hard to reinstall in the same position to avoid cutting a 2nd ring which will reduce performance. I tend to get 3 to 5 years out of a seat so I may end up relubing and maybe even replacing some dynamic o-rings a couple times before the seat needs to be replaced.
I'm with Awap on the, "do not remove unless you're going to replace." If you're going to replace it, just screw a wood or sheetmetal screw into it and pull it out.
Don't want to use the screw? If you have a tank of air handy, place any o-ring large enough to make a seal between the back side of the seat retainer and the tank valve and aim the seat at the cat.
c
Don't want to use the screw? If you have a tank of air handy, place any o-ring large enough to make a seal between the back side of the seat retainer and the tank valve and aim the seat at the cat.
c
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Slamfire
Contributor
I use an air blow gun like this connected to a LP port on a tank. I connected a brass tip on the blow gun that reduced outlet diameter. I've never had any trouble getting seats out. They've always come out with the first blast.
I thought the seats with different heights where meant to give you a wider range of IP adjustability, not just to eliminate the use of shims. In other words, seats, regardless of their height, could be used with or without shims to get to your target IP. If you were limited to just one short seat height, some people might encounter that the max of 3 shims per side is not enough to reach desired IP. I may be wrong, but that's been my assumption all along.
Also, if you need Mk 10 HP seats, you can get a dive shop to order them from Trident for you. They're about $3 a piece and because they are generic you don't bring in the nasty Scuba Pro policies into play. Just tell them you want part number A242 from page 46 of the 2011 Trident catalog (see attachment).
View attachment tridentcatalogpg 46.pdf
I thought the seats with different heights where meant to give you a wider range of IP adjustability, not just to eliminate the use of shims. In other words, seats, regardless of their height, could be used with or without shims to get to your target IP. If you were limited to just one short seat height, some people might encounter that the max of 3 shims per side is not enough to reach desired IP. I may be wrong, but that's been my assumption all along.
Also, if you need Mk 10 HP seats, you can get a dive shop to order them from Trident for you. They're about $3 a piece and because they are generic you don't bring in the nasty Scuba Pro policies into play. Just tell them you want part number A242 from page 46 of the 2011 Trident catalog (see attachment).
View attachment tridentcatalogpg 46.pdf
Zung
Contributor
Has anybody established the "value" of the Trident (A148) A242 seat? +, -I, -II?
I've just fitted one to a MK5 and the IP is kind of low-ish, in the 8 bar / 120 PSI range with a shim at the top and the bottom of the spring; but it's not broken-in yet.
I've just fitted one to a MK5 and the IP is kind of low-ish, in the 8 bar / 120 PSI range with a shim at the top and the bottom of the spring; but it's not broken-in yet.
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Slamfire
Contributor
Are you referring to A242? A148 is a LP seat that would go in a 2nd stage and have nothing to do with 1st stage IP. If you are referring to A242, which is the HP seat for Mk5/Mk10, I have tried two new ones I placed in about 20 dives ago. So far my regs have been breathing fine. I'll get some IP readings this afternoon when I get back home and report them back to you. By now those HP seats should be broken into (at least the primary reg one should be).
R
redacted
Guest
I would expect it would compare to the -II seat. That produces the lowest IP and adding shims increases it from there. I had a similar problem with a Mk5 I serviced last week. I added a third shim and changed IP gauges and it was in the 130 to 135 range. I'm beginning to think my Craftsman compression gauge may have been reading a little low.
I have had some success adding a Mk20/25 washer (shim) to the seat retainer to raise IP an increment but that may cause a problem getting the seat retainer o-ring to seal if it does not stay centered.
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