Scubapro chrome plated brass regulators...

[Umuntu]

Looks like I have the M3... so made in Italy?

View attachment 580387

Interestingly, all my Imperial are hex or Phillips head, while the metric is slotted.

But @rsingler's post would suggest that if it's Hex it's imperial, especially if it was bought in North America.

 

[rsingler]

But @rsingler's post would suggest that if it's Hex it's imperial, especially if it was bought in North America.

I'm sure there were some hex metrics as well. I just have a small sample of regs. I was just surprised to see slotted on a European screw from that time. I'll look through the rest and see if I find other heads on metrics...

 

[saxman242]

But @rsingler's post would suggest that if it's Hex it's imperial, especially if it was bought in North America.

It's slotted because of the narrow head diameter. Slotted fasteners are typical of that style head.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

But @rsingler's post would suggest that if it's Hex it's imperial, especially if it was bought in North America.

Mine is a Hex and I have a Phillips both with .5mm pitch and a diameter of 2.9 mm so it’s defiantly metric.

I guess my 109 and 156 were born in Italy.

 

[Umuntu]

I have an unused Scubapro duropoppet upgrade repair kit for the 109 adjustable/G200/M50, it has 2 phillips head metric screws. They are either chromed brass or stainless.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

I have an unused Scubapro duropoppet upgrade repair kit for the 109 adjustable/G200/M50, it has 2 phillips head metric screws. They are either chromed brass or stainless.

I’ve only ever bought parts on the Internet not official kits for them, so they never came with screws. I think my shoes are stainless I should check with a magnet.

 

[Angelo Farina]

My metric ones are either slotted or Phillips. Both are brass.
My Imperial ones are Torx (stainless steel) or Phillips (brass).
The imperial ones has a slightly larger head, which does not enter in the hole of Italian regs.

 

[Couv]

Some people have been known to chuck a screw up into a drill and lay a file on the head until it's reduced to the desired diameter. A few more minutes of 350 grit sandpaper held over the worked area provides a nice finish.

McMaster-Carr

or

McMaster-Carr

If you're going to modify a number of screws, fashion a go-no go gauge out of a piece of thick plastic or wood. Drill a hole sized to the diameter you want the screw head. As material is removed from the screw head, the gauge can be used instead of having to fiddle with a measuring instrument.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

I do the same thing. Great way to save on air for dynamic flow measurements, compared with the Venturi vacuum generator in the Regulator Savvy/ScubaTools model. Just hook a small vac (I use a cheap tiny model Home Depot shop vac) to the top of the rotameter, and you've easily got 20SCFM flow to test with. A little noisy, but in my experience, no less noisy than that Venturi vacuum, which blows through an AL80 in a couple of minutes. You can see the old 1/4" copper line which used to feed the Venturi, disconnected at the top of the rotameter.
View attachment 580169
View attachment 580170
The vacuum is on a dimmer switch, which makes it easy to change suck, and I added an air bleed (the orange valve) at the top for fine tuning of suction, especially at low flows. With the vacuum tucked out of sight under the table, and inside a box, noise is pretty minimal.

Hey Rob, trying to build your Vacuum system, but can’t find what I assume is a three way ball valve in PVC your using as the bleed. Would you mind letting me know where I may find one? My Dyson hand vac works well but is battery operated.

Thanks,

 

[lexvil]

Hey Rob, trying to build your Vacuum system, but can’t find what I assume is a three way ball valve in PVC your using as the bleed. Would you mind letting me know where I may find one? My Dyson hand vac works well but is battery operated.

Thanks,

Just use a “T” and nipple a valve in should do it.