Question Regulator Tuning

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I did not see the need to man-splain IP especially since she is working with a store who did the service.

Every diver needs an IP gauge they can plug into their BC inflator hose and familiarize themselves with what the IP should be for their regulator.

Last time I explained in detail how to adjust the orifice in a second stage there was a collective meltdown as I was going to cause the diver to kill himself.

I do not think the second stage needs to be adjusted, I do think the IP needs to be checked and possibly turned down to the lower end of the range and use the adjustment knob on the second stage to increase cracking force. But, that is what I think from the information provided, others can think differently.

I am almost afraid to make a blanket statement, well, actually I am, but will anyways. Any second stage that does not free flow when the purge is depressed to initiate flow is probably going to suck.
 
I did not see the need to man-splain IP especially since she is working with a store who did the service.

Every diver needs an IP gauge they can plug into their BC inflator hose and familiarize themselves with what the IP should be for their regulator.

Last time I explained in detail how to adjust the orifice in a second stage there was a collective meltdown as I was going to cause the diver to kill himself.

I do not think the second stage needs to be adjusted, I do think the IP needs to be checked and possibly turned down to the lower end of the range and use the adjustment knob on the second stage to increase cracking force. But, that is what I think from the information provided, others can think differently.

I am almost afraid to make a blanket statement, well, actually I am, but will anyways. Any second stage that does not free flow when the purge is depressed to initiate flow is probably going to suck.
Hi Nemrod,

You are doing a good job. I just added a bit extra for the benefit of the young lady. We live in a democracy, and you are entitled to your views.

For those who blindly adhere to policies and procedures and have meltdowns because someone has an alternate view let me quote your American poet Oliver Wendell Holmes Sr.

"The young man knows the rules, but the old man knows the exceptions."
 
"The young man knows the rules, but the old man knows the exceptions."
I like that quote.

@TheRavenCT - your best bet is to chat with someone at the shop and ask them how they tuned it. It sounds like you know a few things already. The lever adjustment as described in this thread (undo the reg hose, stick a hex key or a slotted screwdriver and turn) isn't the best way to do the adjustment you need. The procedure may increase the force required to free flow BUT will decrease gas volume available to you at depth. That is why it is usually frowned upon.

If you feel like it, check out Regulator Savvy. All your questions and more will be answered.


Also, ask @rsingler about his upcoming regulator classes.
 
IP gauge is absolutely necessary if you own scuba regulator and it is NOT that expensive. Read #11 for the simple gauge that you should be able to buy on line.
Free flow second stage? Check the 1st stage with the IP gauge first instead of blaming the 2nd stage.
 
$85 In-line adjustment tool with LP gauge. Gauge to set 1st stage IP and in-line tool to set 2nd stage cracking pressure.
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Taking the 1st stage out of equation, the adjustment sounds right.
Both Micron 2nd stages are adjustable, correct? At least I've seen only adjustable ones so far.
Just screw in the adjustable knob a bit before dive, if that bothers you. This increases the cracking pressure effort.
Alternatively, keep the venturi lever in pre-dive mode.

I have a set of Aqualung Helix Compact Pro and always dive them with closed venturi lever. The Helix are tuned exactly as you describe.
Scubapros... I also dive them with closed VIVA/venturi switch, even though the VIVA switch is slightly different than the Micron's on most Scubapro models.

Try them with closed venturi and see if it works for you.

There is also another scenario. I've seen a completely messed up adjustment from the factory on a brand new Helix set with very high cracking pressure on the 2nd stages. Is it possible yours was also set like this and now adjusted to spec after service, your just don't find them "as before"?
 
am almost afraid to make a blanket statement, well, actually I am, but will anyways. Any second stage that does not free flow when the purge is depressed to initiate flow is probably going to suck.
Not true for Apeks regs, since they have a shallower purge button, they will not freeflow from a quick purge.
 
Too many complicated suggestions … at this point I think the OP should just go dive with them and see how it performs. As mentioned by other posters - a well tuned reg should freeflow on a hard purge. One should become familiar with the technique of stopping a freeflow on the surface by blocking the mouthpiece with the hand or underwater by turning the mouthpiece down when not in the mouth…
 
Leaving all the other behind, since talking IP gauges, this is the one that is both useful and cheap:


Everyone needs one of these. It is not invasive to the regulator, takes zero skill to use and zero tools. All the diver needs to know is what the IP is supposed to be for their set and what it was last time the reg was used. Then can monitor that the IP is both correct, has not changed and is stable (not creeping up).
 

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