HOG D1 cold water kit question

[TT_Vert]

I had an issue getting the cold water cap off and ended up having to drill a new pin hole for the spanner on one of my regs (Frozen on due to quite a bit of corrosion). With that said, I ended up going a hair too deep and drilling through the environmental cap in a spot (Did not damage threads) so I want to replace it. I cannot seem to find a spare cap anywhere, does anyone know if we can get the environmental cap? PN is C-01-002-13-PT. I have a few questions. Given this is strictly a warm water reg, can i just leave the adjusting nut exposed (As shown in pic)? I believe this may be how the regular D1 is anyway. Or I could put the cap back on w/ the transmitter and again just do warm water diving w/ the reg.

One thing I noticed. My wifes IP (I don't plan to disassemble and it's doing great) from the factory is locking at150PSI. I plan to leave it alone, but does anyone have an opinion on that? I've tuned the second stages and have no real free flow issues w/ them.


Can I leave my first stage like this and dive warm water until I can find an environmental cap?

Thanks much,

Dave

 

[rsingler]

There is another brand that drills the environmental hole all the way through. Although it adds more salt water to the threads, you're seal will work just fine with the thread showing. Lube it heavily before you put it back on. And leave it wrist tight.
If you leave it off, it's just an unsealed reg, like the Scubapro Mk11 or any of number of other regs.
IP of 150 is at the edge for these second stages (and is above specification). Since you know how to remove and replace the env seal, why not remove it and lower the IP? There's nothing magical about "from the factory" settings. It just shows their marginal QC.

 

[TT_Vert]

There is another brand that drills the environmental hole all the way through. Although it adds more salt water to the threads, you're seal will work just fine with the thread showing. Lube it heavily before you put it back on. And leave it wrist tight.
If you leave it off, it's just an unsealed reg, like the Scubapro Mk11 or any of number of other regs.
IP of 150 is at the edge for these second stages (and is above specification). Since you know how to remove and replace the env seal, why not remove it and lower the IP? There's nothing magical about "from the factory" settings. It just shows their marginal QC.

Honestly, I have PTSD after removing the first env. cap. It was an utter nightmare, and I know this one will be the same as it's been on pretty much the exact same dives and cleaned just like this one. I'd hate to damage my second one if 150PSI will work. I know the D1 service manual says 135 +/- 5psi. And quite frankly, hers is more prone to free flow on rough entries than mine and I bet this is why.

I was actually pondering filling the spanner holes on the env. cap w/ RTV as it can handle 200psi# and is flexible enough to be dug out when I need to service it again.

I am utterly shocked how well these have held up sitting since my last dives in 2020. Literally breathe like new, all adjustments are smooth, no leaks (Except my inflator valve which had a rock hard o-ring), IP is rock solid. Great regs.

Thanks for your response, I appreciate your input.

Dave

 

[rsingler]

No need to fill the hole.
Get a second hook spanner so you can hold the diaphragm clamp while you remove the environmental clamp.

And for that shallow pin dimple on your wife's first stage, buy a captive pin spanner from
Scubagaskets or Scuba-Clinic-Tools.

 

[TT_Vert]

No need to fill the hole.
Get a second hook spanner so you can hold the diaphragm clamp while you remove the environmental clamp.
View attachment 897790
And for that shallow pin dimple on your wife's first stage, buy a captive pin spanner from
Scubagaskets or Scuba-Clinic-Tools.
View attachment 897789

I do have two spanner wrenches. It was just not coming apart. At the end of the day, I had to freeze the part, put one spanner in a vice and use a 3' breaker bar on the other spanner after drilling a NEW hole as the first one was no longer round by the time I was done. It was STUCK!! That's why I don't really want to do it lol. I could probably make a captive one like that. My luck, the bolt would break and jam in just the way that I could not back the remaining screw off to get the tool off.

 

[happy-diver]

Yeah the good ole stuff in freezer trick hey, I feel like Max, I just got some stuff in to unfreeze and bought a freezer
Yeah 500km delivery from Melbourne and still better value greater choice than in the local shop Appliances Online

So while my shackle and anchor chain is in the freezer I might get serious with a couple of my seized up
corroded Ds4s hit them a few times with a plastic hammer, then dunk them in a dish of Phosphoric acid
and water, undo them clean them, silicone the threads about a lb and put them back like Humpty again


And then I will use the leftover phosphoric, tip it in the bucket to free the shackle, after the hydrochloric

How's about these Stilsons, hey

It's all fun and after the experiment you can experiment with more sensitve stuff and more sensitive stuff

Yeah they're not brass not coppered nor chromed buy hey after the Phosphoric dip the plating will still be there

BUT THE VERDIGRIS AND OTHER LOCKING SUBSTANCES WILL NOT doesn't affect rubber, plastic or paint either

Yeah I bought the freezer for normal stuff like stuff from the ocean and frozen pies, not for the wrong stuff

So when you work on your wifes reg hammer it, soak it in an inch of Phos then put IT in the vice Not the tool

And a really good load of Molycote 111 on the threads, even on your O2 stuff, as it is outboard, of your seals

Actually I feel like 99

 

[Jim Lapenta]

150 is too high. Whoever you bought the reg from should have checked this before they sent it out. I never trusted the factory settings. Every HOG reg I sold got tuned before it shipped to my customer.
I've seen them seized like that and had to take drastic measures to get the cap off.
I made wrenches similar to what RSingler posted with the captive design. Pins 180 degrees to each other. (I'm a waterjet machinist in my day job)see below. This is the one for the D1.
Trick is to make the wrench diameter just enough to go over the cap. Drill and tap it, get pins from Scubatools of the proper diameter (.140) and use those in the tapped holes and seat them to the bottom of the holes in the cap.
Then use steady, even pressure on the wrench.
That white residue is from improper rinsing after being in salt water. I also saw it on some regs used by a PSD team who said they only used them in fresh water. Fresh water with high mineral content.
That residue essentially welds the pieces together. Worst one I saw had the plating inside the cap eaten through by it.
When I encountered something like that, I found also that using 50/50 water to white vinegar in my heated ultrasonic would sometimes help. Placing the reg in cap down so the solution just covered the seam.
To prevent it from happening again, always make sure the reg is rinsed well. After a long trip, if you were comfortable doing it, remove the envirocap while the reg is pressurized, wipe the threads, and place a small bit of tribolube on the treads. Then with the reg still pressurized, re-install the cap. Purge the reg and the seal should suck down. Never install the cap and enviroseal with the reg depressurized. What will happen if you do that, is that when the reg is turned on the seal will bulge out. Over time, the silicone will deform and the seal will be compromised.