Yeah I purchased all the service kits when I left the training class and I’m in a hurry now to get the servicing done because I could not plan a spontaneous dive trip vacation this year at all - because I procrastinated about completing the “Regulator Saavy” book ever since I took the hands-on class. Now I intend to do a few days of check diving with my newly serviced gear next month, a long-drive away from here on the coast before making my next International big-budget trip. That’s the plan.
Question Ultrasonic Cleaners vs HCL acid?
- Thread starter Pearlman
- Start date
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I’d probably rebuild 2nd stages more often than 1st, as long as IP is holding up, since they get more deposits and ingress into them (also lp seat indents)
If you’re having intersecting imprints on the seat that’s a big sign to replace it asap
For the 1st maybe the din/yoke retainer should be done regularly anyways even if IP is good — these threads are very exposed
So a partial rebuild without having to worry about intersections on the HP seat or anything of sorts (the mk25 seat is rigid so not an issue— haven’t worked on my 19 or an xtx yet so can’t tell)
Edit: I see that lex just mentioned the 19 now, and that they need change as well
Of course doing a full rebuild if you gotten started partially
This is good advice because I remember trying to unscrew my DIN regs the wrong way from the tank valves, by mistake after a few dives - in a way that could have torqued the retainer loose… so in addition to IP checks and inspecting O-rings before a dive trip, add an additional step to correctly torque the retainers to specs…
Got mine last weekend (a 2ltr version) and gave it a test run with junk lying around my house that should have been scrapped years back. The results weren’t satisfactory for multiple reasons
1. I put some rubber bush stuff (from a discarded AC motor blower) in at the last minute then later discovered that rubber absorbs the ultrasonic frequencies and diminishes their power
2. Reading up a bit on Google I discovered that using US Cleaners effectively on various materials is a technical subject in its own right that requires appropriate technical training and education - stuff like the presence of different contaminants requires different chemical additives into the water, found older threads here on Scubaboard that mention the use of surfactants to reduce surface tension … or finding that depending on the condition of the parts to be cleaned, multiple treatments alternating with acidic then alkaline bath solutions may be required etc… so my very first trial attempt with just a few bottle caps of kitchen vinegar didn’t do much…
Good feeling to discover and learn new stuff everyday (the reason I decided to find a new hobby and try and do everything right with the proper tools) at the same time felt like a fool for thinking it would be as easy as using a vacuum cleaner to mop up the dust on my flooring .. LOL!
The device cost me more than 1.5x the Chinese models available locally, is manufactured in my city to industry standards with repair and tech support available for the next many years, and with 1hr door step pickup and drop porter service commonly available nowadays it was a no-brainer to opt for.
I was also wondering if I should opt for vinegar and distilled water (with their chrome stripping abilities when my parts aren’t rusted) and anyways quickly found and ordered AR grade 99% orthophosphoric acid online with door-step delivery (do I still use 5% solution with 99% AR grade vs 85% LR?) and now I am wondering if I can use my home dishwash chemical free coconut based detergent as a surfactant?
PS - I also read that the blue Scubapro XTIS piston/diaphragm springs are actually Teflon coated and one should avoid putting them in a US Cleaner. So do I just settle for dishwash and toothbrush for those?
1. I put some rubber bush stuff (from a discarded AC motor blower) in at the last minute then later discovered that rubber absorbs the ultrasonic frequencies and diminishes their power
2. Reading up a bit on Google I discovered that using US Cleaners effectively on various materials is a technical subject in its own right that requires appropriate technical training and education - stuff like the presence of different contaminants requires different chemical additives into the water, found older threads here on Scubaboard that mention the use of surfactants to reduce surface tension … or finding that depending on the condition of the parts to be cleaned, multiple treatments alternating with acidic then alkaline bath solutions may be required etc… so my very first trial attempt with just a few bottle caps of kitchen vinegar didn’t do much…
Good feeling to discover and learn new stuff everyday (the reason I decided to find a new hobby and try and do everything right with the proper tools) at the same time felt like a fool for thinking it would be as easy as using a vacuum cleaner to mop up the dust on my flooring .. LOL!
The device cost me more than 1.5x the Chinese models available locally, is manufactured in my city to industry standards with repair and tech support available for the next many years, and with 1hr door step pickup and drop porter service commonly available nowadays it was a no-brainer to opt for.
I was also wondering if I should opt for vinegar and distilled water (with their chrome stripping abilities when my parts aren’t rusted) and anyways quickly found and ordered AR grade 99% orthophosphoric acid online with door-step delivery (do I still use 5% solution with 99% AR grade vs 85% LR?) and now I am wondering if I can use my home dishwash chemical free coconut based detergent as a surfactant?
PS - I also read that the blue Scubapro XTIS piston/diaphragm springs are actually Teflon coated and one should avoid putting them in a US Cleaner. So do I just settle for dishwash and toothbrush for those?
Vinegar will handle all of you scuba needs, I usually us various size plastic containers in the cleaner with different strengths of vinegar or in some cases or parts soapy water. The ultra sonic is not magic, you can probably achieve the same results by placing a bucket of solution on a trailer hitch and driving around on some bad roads, it is easier and faster too.
A few years ago I had a scratched and dented 109 cover, I soaked it for 30 in vinegar (50/50) to see what it could do asa chrome remover, bottom line it the exposed base metal was very clean and I couldn’t see and plating loss, the damage in a normal use is very overblown.
Do not put SP springs in any acidic solution, that coating will come off.
A few years ago I had a scratched and dented 109 cover, I soaked it for 30 in vinegar (50/50) to see what it could do asa chrome remover, bottom line it the exposed base metal was very clean and I couldn’t see and plating loss, the damage in a normal use is very overblown.
Do not put SP springs in any acidic solution, that coating will come off.
Direct quote from Vance Harlow "Scuba Regulator Maintenance and Repair". Chapter 9:
"Don't get creative when it comes to selecting what to put in your cleaning bath! Use either the manufacturers recommended products or else stick to a plain household type detergent and 50/50 vinegar"
"Don't get creative when it comes to selecting what to put in your cleaning bath! Use either the manufacturers recommended products or else stick to a plain household type detergent and 50/50 vinegar"
This ^^^
You’ll also need/waste much less of your cleaning liquid instead of preping a whole 2l (ok maybe less anyway) batch; amd the really dirty part doesn’t get gunk in your US (esp if you have a drain tap)
If you also got a „clean“ batch means you might be able to reuse that liquid for another run (maybe cleaning bike parts or something you aren’t breathing from)
I actually read about that yesterday but still hazy about the execution - So you can put different plastic containers in the plain water bath with different concentrations of vinegar, and with the mouth of the containers above water level so as not to mix the solutions with the rest of the water in the bath correct? Then add a little surfactant to the water and it’s good to go?
One more question - when not servicing regs and after a dive trip - can I put whole 2nd stages and 1st stages (with the ports closed and inlet sealed with a threaded Delrin cap say) in the US Cleaner to rinse off the salt residues?
Yes on the containers, l use some with lids to save solution in case something really crusty comes it can do a pre run in the older solution.
I would not put a reg in an ultrasonic for rinsing, unless you want to do that without running it. A sink, bucket etc is fine for fresh water soaking, don’t over think it.
Try and use the thinnest plastic containers you can find — more of the US vibrations get transmitted into the inner side (but again don’t overthink it, a yoghurt cup works great)
Also, and this one actually makes a lot of difference — pre heat your water, cleaning soln before putting parts in; would save the length of time you need to keep things immersed (esp when super cruddy)
Edit: DONT GO OVER 50~60degC; (70degC+)is where vinegar can actually START doing visible damage quicker to the chrome — in my experience the one time I fully stripped an spg thread of plating (it was for the trash anyway so I tested on it my mix/temp/soak time)
Also, and this one actually makes a lot of difference — pre heat your water, cleaning soln before putting parts in; would save the length of time you need to keep things immersed (esp when super cruddy)
Edit: DONT GO OVER 50~60degC; (70degC+)is where vinegar can actually START doing visible damage quicker to the chrome — in my experience the one time I fully stripped an spg thread of plating (it was for the trash anyway so I tested on it my mix/temp/soak time)
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