Scubagaskets getting into the Reg business

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I just used my new Scuba Gaskets s/s reg yesterday. It worked flawlessly as I expected. I really like the compactness and cleanliness of the first stage. It looks like something that should be a component of a Nascar racecar or part of a spacecraft. It’s just slick and non pretentious.
I got the DIN version.
The second stage worked fine. I like the venturi lever right next to the adjustment knob for ease of location. There is a marked difference in breathing resistance working both the knob and the lever, from pretty stiff to very free snd smooth. This is good since I know the design is effective.
The only thing I’m going to change out is the mouthpiece. It was a little small and tight. I’m switching to the large trident mouthpiece which fits me best.
I don’t know enough about other modern second stages to be able to compare it to anything.
All my other regs are all-metal 1085’s and 109’s. I do have a G200B and an R190 but those are a bigger older school designs. The Scuba Gaskets 2nd stage is more compact and breathes very smooth so maybe like an SP C370? IDK?
I like it.
We did an urchin removal working dive so a lot of it was hard work and huffing a puffing whilst filling bags and battling surge in the shallows.
I never got the feeling of OMG I Need more Air!
Entries and exits are splash in and crawl out on all fours so silty conditions but no fine sand since Stillwater is more gravelly.
Converting my tanks was another matter.
I have a few HP tanks with inserts. The inserts have been in there for years. I didn’t even attempt to remove them with a standard Allen wrench since there was some slop. I ended up custom making an Allen bit in a socket by carefully grinding down a larger size until it fit tight with a slight taper. I tapped it in then used an impact gun carefully feathering the trigger and managed to crack them loose. They were completely salted out. The shock of the impact is the only way to knock those loose.
Those inserts will stay out now since these tanks are for this DIN reg.
A pro tip I can offer: If you want to replace inserts after getting them out and want to prevent freeze up, get some Lanocote and dress the threads before installation. It’s a bit strong smelling but it’s harmless since the smell is from the lanolin it contains. It’s a staple in the sail boating industry to coat stainless bolts and screws that will go into aluminum masts. It provides a micro layer between dissimilar metals so they don’t weld to each other with corrosion. I guess they found that natural lanolin works better than any synthetic lubricant or protectant that they can find.
IMG_1975.jpeg
 
Would have cost you a fill and maybe a VIP, but wonder how it would work in the case of stuck DIN inserts to drain the cylinder, pull the valve, and let it spend some spa time in the ultrasonic cleaner?

Lanocote sounds a lot like Fluid film.
 
Is there a reason for not using an anti-seize compound on the inserts? My only experience with it has been on the non-rotating bolts on my bikes, where it performs minor miracles even after a winter of bike commuting over salted roads and paths. You only use a tiny amount, so a small tube lasts forever.

There are options specifically formulated for stainless steel.
 
Converting my tanks was another matter.
I have a few HP tanks with inserts. The inserts have been in there for years. I didn’t even attempt to remove them with a standard Allen wrench since there was some slop. I ended up custom making an Allen bit in a socket by carefully grinding down a larger size until it fit tight with a slight taper. I tapped it in then used an impact gun carefully feathering the trigger and managed to crack them loose. They were completely salted out. The shock of the impact is the only way to knock those loose.
Those inserts will stay out now since these tanks are for this DIN reg.
A pro tip I can offer: If you want to replace inserts after getting them out and want to prevent freeze up, get some Lanocote and dress the threads before installation. It’s a bit strong smelling but it’s harmless since the smell is from the lanolin it contains. It’s a staple in the sail boating industry to coat stainless bolts and screws that will go into aluminum masts. It provides a micro layer between dissimilar metals so they don’t weld to each other with corrosion. I guess they found that natural lanolin works better than any synthetic lubricant or protectant that they can find.
View attachment 855581

Congrats on the new regs! Good to hear we have another promising vender in the market.

As for your battles with your crusty DIN inserts, all I can say is Service your Valves More Often!

Sometimes I feel like I need to form a non-profit advocacy group to promote the Ethical Treatment of Valves. :)

Our scuba tank valves get overlooked and abused even among the group of people who are all about DIY and Self-Servicing of regulators. Valves are way easier to service, you can buy service kits at retail, and we use them on every single dive.

Nobody should have to custom grind an allen wrench to remove a janky key. Do a bit of preventative maintenance before it gets that bad! And if you had to go to such lengths, at least service the valve afterward!

> This message is brought to you by People for Ethical Treatment of Valves. Join today! <
 
I just used my new Scuba Gaskets s/s reg yesterday. It worked flawlessly as I expected. I really like the compactness and cleanliness of the first stage. It looks like something that should be a component of a Nascar racecar or part of a spacecraft. It’s just slick and non pretentious.
A pro tip I can offer: If you want to replace inserts after getting them out and want to prevent freeze up, get some Lanocote and dress the threads before installation. It’s a bit strong smelling but it’s harmless since the smell is from the lanolin it contains. It’s a staple in the sail boating industry to coat stainless bolts and screws that will go into aluminum masts. It provides a micro layer between dissimilar metals so they don’t weld to each other with corrosion. I guess they found that natural lanolin works better than any synthetic lubricant or protectant that they can find.
View attachment 855581
Ummm... has anybody done a ignition test on this in high PP0 environments?

Wondering if Tribolube may be a safer, if possibly less-effective anti-seize.
 
Congrats on the new regs! Good to hear we have another promising vender in the market.

As for your battles with your crusty DIN inserts, all I can say is Service your Valves More Often!

Sometimes I feel like I need to form a non-profit advocacy group to promote the Ethical Treatment of Valves. :)

Our scuba tank valves get overlooked and abused even among the group of people who are all about DIY and Self-Servicing of regulators. Valves are way easier to service, you can buy service kits at retail, and we use them on every single dive.

Nobody should have to custom grind an allen wrench to remove a janky key. Do a bit of preventative maintenance before it gets that bad! And if you had to go to such lengths, at least service the valve afterward!

> This message is brought to you by People for Ethical Treatment of Valves. Join today! <
Yes I’m guilty as charged, bad bad valve abuser.
To be honest, I never thought I would be pulling them out and using DIN again.
Just like I saw a bumper sticker the other day that said “I never thought I’d miss Nixon”
I’ll bet those DIN/yoke inserts are one if the most overlooked things in scuba equipment service.
 
Would have cost you a fill and maybe a VIP, but wonder how it would work in the case of stuck DIN inserts to drain the cylinder, pull the valve, and let it spend some spa time in the ultrasonic cleaner?

Lanocote sounds a lot like Fluid film.
Looks like Fluid Film also uses lanolin for their base. No wonder I never see any rusty sheep running around, especially out on the coast!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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