rEvo modifications, tweaks and customisations

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Sidemounting Bailouts

With the modifications to the harness a pair of sidemount bungee loops were added. Alternative sidemounting methods include the Dive Rite bungee + ring system plus many others.

The point of this is to get the bailouts under control so they're pulled back under the armpits and thus streamlined and not hanging vertically.
Sidemounted bailout 3.jpgSidemounted bailout 1.jpg

This means less effort to fin than if the stages are swinging free and they don't go vertical if using a light gas -- there's lots of examples posted around. Most importantly if going inside a wreck, cavern, overhang, swimthrough those stages won't clout the roof or worse still jam you inside.

The bailout cylinders are 'handed', meaning they're modular valves with the valves on the outside such that the bungees will pull the "horns" inside and backwards along your torso and under your armpits.

Traditionally sidemounters only use a single stage clip on the bottom, relying only on the bungees on the top to hold them in place. This is a royal PITA when you're kitting up on a boat or attempting to carry the cylinders. Sidemounters have their reasons, but they're not appropriate for bailout cylinders (IMHO).

The bailout cylinders with the modular valves have normal stage rigging attached to them. These are twisted 45 degrees towards the valve 'horn' -- stage rigging normally runs down the middle.

Ali80s and ali7's (50cf?) are shown here. The ones on the left are bailout, the ones on the right are deco.

Sidemount.jpg


The harness, as shown in the post above, has two chest D-rings on each side. The top D-ring is used for clipping off your general 'stuff', the lower D-rings are for clipping off your bailout stages.
Chest D-rings (annotated).jpg


You clip the stages to the lower chest D-ring. The bottom stage clip is clipped to the waist belt on a sidemount dropped D-ring (pictured on the right) or a standard D-ring (slidable Billy ring, pictured on left). The drop D-ring will move the stage lower to fit under your armpit when bungeed.
Waist D-rings.jpg


Kitting up:
On the boat I just clip the stages on as any normal person would. When in the water, probably on the bottom, I'll check everything out and attach the bungee(s).

When ascending, about 5 mins before surfacing I'll undo the bungees and let the stages dangle. This makes it easier to unclip on the boat as the bungees can be an embuggerance to any helpers.

A tiny bit of practice and minimal adjustment required -- unlike sidemount! Because the bungees are knotted with a tail (see above), you can easily adjust the length. Once set, that's it.
 
ADV Shutoff

This is still work in progress and is basically the WreckedInMyRevo mod:

The photos on there show what I think is an older injection block. My Revo has 9/16" connectors for both O2 and Diluent inlets as opposed to the BCD nipples shown in that article. Maybe gas flow volumes matter -- although the output is still a BCD nipple.

ADV shutoff.jpg



It works well when at deco with a hypoxic mix not diluting the oxygen.

Not keen on it being a solid fixture to the manual add block as the hose on the Shutoff cannot twist -- all the other hoses can twist due to the regulator connectors (x2) or the BCD nipple (x1)
 
Kent Tooling Stand is an absolute must for boat diving imho. Can’t fault the workmanship.
The KT stand is great but pretty heavy -- fine for cold diving.

Revo's stand is a bit lighter -- titanium -- but only fits on post 2019 units without "factory" modifications (some captive nuts need to be pressed into the casej

Are there other stands?
 
The KT stand is great but pretty heavy -- fine for cold diving.

Revo's stand is a bit lighter -- titanium -- but only fits on post 2019 units without modifications.
I was recently speaking to a diver with a rEvo stand and he was complaining of rust on the stand!! Not sure what you mean by ‘cold diving’ but for typical Irish/UK diving it’s perfect for helping with trimming out the unit considering you have a weight tray to utilise as well.
 
Following for advice on mine
 
Any idea where to get the DIR buckle in the US?
Not sure of a US source, but it’s pretty cheap at $12 so maybe from DirDirect.com
 
Any idea where to get the DIR buckle in the US?
Slightly different, but should remove the need for the tri-glide on the upper section:
 
Slightly different, but should remove the need for the tri-glide on the upper section:
That looks great!

Amazed that it's tumbled for 48 hours!
 
For the sake of keeping things as simple as possible, I’m just wondering what was the specific reason given for replacing the harness? Is there a ‘plastic buckle failure rate’ that has been published or recorded somewhere ?
Tks
Cathal
 

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