Raja Ampat Dec 2023 trip report

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rayaa3

Contributor
Messages
169
Reaction score
134
Location
Oklahoma
# of dives
200 - 499
I wanted to post this here, in case someone looking into Raja Ampat could find it helpful.

First - I'm going to have a lot of opinions below, so it's nice to have some frame of reference to my point of view:

My wife and I have been diving since 2006. We have 400-500 dives logged. Most of our diving is in the Caribbean. Living in the south central US, Central America is a quick trip. Prob more than half our dives are in Cozumel, but we also like diving independently in Bonaire. We enjoyed the same at Curacao. Roatan, Belize. We did a Liveaboard in Raja Ampat, and have done one before in Egypt - the BDE 7 day route out of Hurghada. The only pacific diving we have done together was off the Mexican coast - down near Puerto Vallarta a long time ago, which is "meh" diving, but hey - when you live in Oklahoma you are just happy to see your fins. I've also logged a few tanks in some other places on some work trips - like Okinawa. We are experienced, but 90% of our experience is in waters we are pretty familiar with. Places where you either drift with the current or the current is low enough that you you swim against it on the first half of your dive, and you come back with it on the 2nd half. We are in our late 40s, nearly 50 in good physical shape for a couple of that age, however suffer from what many folks coming up on 50 suffer from: arthritis in joints - not a problem swimming, but my wife's knee will light up after enough use, especially on stairs...and for me a shoulder that had rotator cuff repair in my late 30s has never been the same. Our bodies will perform tasks, but as you age, it comes at a cost.

OK - that felt like a lot of info, but there will be some details where you might compare notes with my experiences and if you are under 35, you may take a different view of those experiences.

Below I cover our route, our layover cities, and non diving stuff...if you don't care about that scroll down to "DIVING"

Our route: I bought our tickets on airline miles which always leads to a hell of a poor route.

We left Friday morning, and spent a couple hours in Chicago, then took the long flight to Japan, spent 6 hours there - used the lounge, got a shower and food - and then took the relatively short 9 hour flight to Jakarta.

We wanted to get a sense of Indonesia, outside of typical tourism so we spent a couple of nights in Jakarta. This gave time for any missing bags to catch up to us, if that happened, gave us some time to adjust jet lag, and time to explore.

Jakarta: Taxi's are cheap relative to North America. In fact, everything is cheap relative to North America. Look into roaming your cell phone plan - for us it was $10 a day for unlimited date/voice/txt. We could have done a local sim, but for $30 didn't want to bother - just roamed our ATT plan. Signal in Jakarta was plentiful enough.

In our time there we visited the national monument, walked the government area around it (really the borders of the monument is a nice walk, in one of the cleanest part of Jakarta you will find).

We wandered into a big, very big, local gathering in a park/square called Taman Fatahillah. I know what 10,000 people gathered in an area looks like, so I would guess there was 20-30,000 people in the area. Shopping, eating, street food, street music performances - people just gathering and hanging out on a Sunday. It was great. It's worth reinforcing for english speaking travellers. As an english speaker you are accustom to being fortunate that english is one of the most common 2nd languages in the world. Jakarta is not often travelled by english speakers - you aren't going to meet many english speakers. Google translate is your friend...you don't even need data for it...you type something in your language, show it to them - try to stick to yes/no questions or questions they can answer with gestures. People were very kind with dealing with a foreigner. That said, in most of Indonesia we were exotic. In Jakarta we experienced our first folks who wanted to take pictures with us, just because of our exotic appearance, height, clothes. It was fairly gentle there - you would run into folks. It lead to some great conversations - met a school group at the national monument and had a wonderful exchange with the teacher and a student working on his english.

It's like anyplace, every once in a while I got the vibe that someone didn't appreciate us being some place, but we are talking about literally 1 in every 100,000 people.

Jakarta reminds me of India.

We visited a few other places, their is a theme park area called Ancol. They have an aquarium, zoo like area, other areas. We visited the zoo area, and 'bird land'. It' was very inexpensive. Birdland was great. Everything I'm mentioning is on google maps.

Oh - that reminds me - taxis. If you are going to be there a while, download the bluebird app - bluebird is a local brand of taxis. The app works like uber or lyft. You can order bluebird or bluebird "silver" (nicer car) - prices aren't bad. The time it takes to get from point A to point B is very relative to time of day...early morning before 7am things go fast, all day long everything takes a long time.

We also walked a lot.

Places to eat: the most frustrating thing we found was that places would not always be open according to hours we found on the internet. They might close earlier, be closed that day, or be closed for a private event (Weddings on two different occasions). In general, in Jakarta, be willing to go with the flow. If something doesn't work out the way you thought it would, change gears. Improvisation should be a skill carried by any potential visitor.

Oh it's worth saying...dog is available on the menu in Indonesia. Depending on where you are going they might offer it. I can't remember seeing it in Jakarta but in Sorong if you see rica-rica, RW, or B1 - that's dog. I eat things that other cultures don't - so I don't have a lot of personal malice against people that eat dog, but I was halfway through my trip before someone told me what to look out for.

We visited places I'm not mentioning - it was all good fun, though it's a densely populated city in a developing country. At the end of days you will be ready for some peace in your hotel room.

We didn't eat much street food - but certainly ate at local shacks/hole in the wall on our visit. "Mineral water" (bottled water) is what we stuck to for liquids. We had no stomach issues.


Ok, after 3 nights we few the midnight flight from Jakarta to Sorong - direct on Garuda. Garuda offers you 1 carry on, 1 personal item (purse, laptop bag), and 20KG of checked bag. If you have a dive bag, they will allow 1 extra bag up to 23KG. They didn't make us prove our heaviest bag was scuba...they just took our word for it. The Jakarta airport has plenty of options for catching a bite before the flight. Most of the options are before you go through security to the gates. Their are a few things after the gates - but not many open after midnight. The airport is loud and chaotic before gate security, and quiet after.

The flight was uneventful. Garuda service was fine. They flew 737 - the 2 exit rows have more legroom than most of economy, but may not lean back.

We had 2 nights in Sorong before our liveaboard. We arrived at 6am, was at the hotel by 7am. Our room was not ready so we opened a big, grabbed bathing suits, headed to the pool. They had a shower available at the pool - so we rinsed off - then had a soak in the hot tub, and then fell asleep in pool chairs. Around 10am our room was ready and someone came for us. We stayed at the Rylich. It was fine. Not bad. I didn't care for the breakfast much but it was fine.

While in Sorong we walked the first day and tried some places to eat. Sorong, in it's way was far more stimulating to walk around in than Jakarta. In Jakarta - we were an odd site but didn't attract MUCH attention. In Sorong you would have thought we were famous. Children will call at you smile and wave "Hey Mister! Mister!" adults as well. People would stop a car, pull over and take a picture with us. About 20% of people were indifferent to us, and 80% would: wave, smile, call out, want a picture, give us a little honk. If you like to walk alot...it's coming.

Getting around in Sorong. Walking is fine. There is no side walk. It can get hot after 9am. That said, if you don't mind heat and like adventure - walk on. If you see yellow vans - they will give you a little beep. They are a sort of unofficial bus. They will drive up a road. You get in, for a flat rate you take them until you see a place you need to turn, then tell them you want off. They stop some place, you get out, walk to the next road/turn and find a new yellow van. I can't remember the fee - 5000 IDR, 7000 IDR? 15k = 1 USD, its' cheap.

If you have a day of things planned, get a taxi by the hour. Your hotel can set it up for ease, it's going to be 100,000-120,000 IDR per hour with some number of hours minimum like 2. 100k IDR is like $6.50. So it's 6.50 per hour. That's a bargain at twice the price. We lucked out, our driver had pretty good english and liked to talk. This is where I learned about the dog meat. We visited the Buddhist temple, a few other places, some stores. It was a nice day and I learned more about Indonesia talking with the driver for our 4-5 hour outing than I had yet.
 
DIVING

Ok, this is a scuba forum, well we are finally down to the diving.

We scheduled a liveaboard that was 7 nights - and did a Raja Ampat North Itinerary. I'm not going to mention the boat because I have some criticisms and I'm not sure if I'm being fair...I'm not ready to publicly trash their name forever on the internet. If you want to know who they are - message me. I may change my mind about this later.

The liveaboard had a fee we paid online (booked through liveaboard.com). They also had a port fees - which had to be paid when you get there in IDR. It was 3,500,000 IDR- (around 220-230 USD per person) per person. This covers your Raja Ampat marine park permit - something I'm accustom to from other destinations - and "port fees". Port fees are something between an unofficial fee and shakedown that the boat gets every place they want to stop/anchor/take you diving. We would go some place and at some point a little outboard boat would come up with some folks from a local village/island community and they would negotiate a fee. It's a weird practice to my point of view, but it is how they do it. I'm not arguing the virtue of why they do it. If you are a local village and you see a luxurious boat coming with 12 people that paid 3-4k USD to be on the boat - and you are looking around saying "hey that's my reef, they are on my villages reef - but my kids don't have good infrastructure for school/healthcare/etc" maybe you get in a boat ride out and explain to the captain that your dive site is going to cost something. --- My approval or not --- this is the custom, and that's what your port fees cover, above the marine park pass: and that's why I bring it up. If you are wondering why this is being charged to you, it's because your operator doesn't wrap it into their fees - and the reason you have to pay in IDR is because those rupiah are going to get rolled to someone while you are out on your trip.

The diving itself. We were there for the new moon. Tides were doing what tides do. The current was brutal most of the time.

I feel like this was the part of Raja Ampat I didn't get a good handle on before the trip. The current. Raja Ampat has all the types of current you can want. Another member posted about a diver that had passed away. That diver death occurred literally the day before I got on a plane to start my trip. So I didn't hear about that event. I read the post when I got back and thought "yep, that adds up."

It's hard to say what the worst current was. The most PIA current I had was something where we called pulled in a current that wrapped around a structure. My wife got thrown into the side of it, but recovered easy enough. I had to hook into the bottom for a moment to turn my head to see that she recovered - and in turning my head the current ripped the regulator 2nd stage off my mouthpiece. Mouthpiece securely in my teeth and first stage flying in the wind. It was rather amazing, all because I turned my head to see my wife slamming against the wall. I didn't actually know until I got a breath of salt water...I thought I had lost my reg, recovered it, looked at it and was like "huh - no mouth piece" took the mouthpiece out of my mouth and instinctively took a sip of air off my 1st stage (it was in my hand, so that represented the most immediate air). I got a slightly wet sip of air which was enough for me to then move on to my octopus. I recovered my wits...though I didn't enjoy the rest of that dive much. Fortunately it was a lateral current, not something that acts like a toilet bowl going down.

As it turns out my first stage took a real beating on that dive when it flew off my mouthpiece it banged into something and broke the ring around the purge. Later on the boat the course director helped repair it using some parts of a similar reg in his bag. I would have switched to rental reg if I had to - but it wasn't necessary.

That wasn't the worst current we saw, but it was the one that shook me up the most.

Now here comes my criticism of the dive operation:

Our boat had 4 groups with 4 guides. 2 Guides were Indonesian...one guide was an older guy, a few years older than me - near retirement - he put it. The 2 other guides were an American guy - the main cruise director, and a French lady - the other cruise director. Later we would find out - they had been with this liveaboard - in Indonesia - less than a year. About 6 months - and in that 6 months the boat had been in Komodo until 3 weeks ago. So the dive guide planning our dives had 3 weeks of time in Raja Ampat. It took a few days to piece together that people were having very different dive experiences based on guide. The older indonesian gentleman had people coming back all smiles and having seen many things. I was coming back happy to have survive. My dive guide liked to go out to the split, in the deepest part of the dive off the reef and look out into the blue for mantas or sharks. Sometimes he would see some - usually the rest of us didn't. The vis in Raja Ampat was 30ft/10meters at best, so at 100ft/30meters depth you have lost a lot of light - and usually the guide was 20ft in front of us - so he would see something out in the deep - come back really excited about it - mostly in those moments I saw his fins. A few times I saw a darkness in the water or perhaps tail fin. This guy was young, 27-29 years old, and was in the kind of shape we usually are in at 27-29. He was leading dives where we would have to follow him and fight the current a lot. Many times in the briefing he would tell us - if you need to - you can climb across the bottom. By the last 2 days my wife switched over to the group with the older gentlemen - so we could compare notes on the same dive site...after comparing my dive to hers on the first day - I joined her and the older gentlemen on the 2nd day, our last day of diving.
Oh - this reminds me - don't forget your swimmers ear preventative - by the end of the week everyone was fighting with ear issues. It felt way more prevalent than anyplace else I've been.

I will never book the liveaboard again. Putting a guide in who has 3 weeks in the area was a mistake. He was a nice guys, a good diver, a questionable leader, but had no business guiding dives in an area he had that little experience in. I don't care how many 1000 of dives you have in other places: local guides know local problems.

Anyway, live and learn - it's something I'll dig into before I ever book another LOB anywhere.

I don't want to undersell the diving. It was amazing. In between exhaustion and frustration I saw Mantas (mostly on Manta Ridge), a few black tips, 2-3 white tips through the week. I saw mobulas on one site. The night muck diving was absolutely my favorite dives - and if you ever go - don't miss an opportunity to do night muck diving in RA. I might consider returning to Raja Ampat one day, after a few other destinations get crossed of the list, but never that boat - and if I found out that guide was on another boat I wouldn't take that one either.

Beyond his local inexperience on the sites he had a bad habit of not giving good briefings even above the water. We did a topside climb on one of the limestone islands - the island was unimproved - no stairs or anything like Piaynemo - so climbing the limestone 'holes' grabbing tree branches. On the briefing he just mentioned a trek - and "ive done it barefooted - so it's easy - we had a guy last week with a disability he did it" -- this is the response of a 29 year old. My wifes knee lit up pretty good on that climb. It's about 15 minutes up and by the end of it she was in a lot of pain. Adding to it - he didn't lead the way up. We got there and he said "who's first" - so I went first and started the climb, there was an old cruddy rope I was told not to trust - so at the end of the rope I called down "keep going straight up the wall after the rope" - he called back "yeah keep going up, you will know when you get there" - 5 minutes later I hear him call out "you guys went the wrong way" - motherF^&* are you telling me there was a different easier way? All you said was keep going up!

Anyway, nice guy, bad leader. I'm sure he will improve with time and age - or I hope he does. I don't need to be around while he does.

Anyway, it was a point of frustration for me.
A real shame - outside of this - the rest of the crew was amazing. I have to wonder if I would have had such hard dives if we had been grouped up with the other gentleman to start with. You never know.

All I know is - before I ever book a liveaboard again I'm going to do more digging on the currents, the tides, and who is guiding the dives (and how much time they have in that area).

Because of current and bad vis I really didn't get as much video as I usually did here were a couple:

- Manta ridge -

- Mantis shrimp trying to catch a meal on a night dive
 
Very helpful wrt Jakarta.
The lob omg.
 
1. I LOVE your Jakarta post. You and your wife are awesome.
Agreed!

2. I knew from the moment you mentioned bule dive guides that things would go south.
Not really fair to call out foreign guides (if google translate was correct) - it’s all about how long the guides have dived in the area/familiarity with the sites - not where they are from!

3. Feel free to name the boat, please.
Yes, please do so that others can learn and ask the right questions if they book with them. You were not overly critical of the overall operation and your criticism was warranted based on your experience!
 
Please also fill in the RA North itinerary. We plan to go back and do not want currents like that so want toknow where not to go.

See pics attached. The dive site list is almost complete. There was a dive the 7th day before we headed back to sorong.

The map is basically accurate. The numbers relate to dive numbers. We went "off the map" to the north crossing back and forth over the equator, I think it was day 3.
 

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Not really fair to call out foreign guides (if google translate was correct) - it’s all about how long the guides have dived in the area/familiarity with the sites - not where they are from!
Nope. If you understand the dive industry in this part of the world and the foreign dive pros who hang out here for a year or three at most... My statement is 99.9% fair. I will die on that hill; metaphorically of course.

I won't apologize in saying if you spend a gazillion dollars to get to his part of the world and your guide is from Liverpool, the suburbs of Paris, Florida, Perth, Durbin, etc... you are being sold short.

Please note I did not say instructor as there are many solid dive instructors here. I cannot stress enough, with the VERY rare exception, you want a local dive guide.
 
Nope. If you understand the dive industry in this part of the world and the foreign dive pros who hang out here for a year or two at most... My statement is 99.9% fair. I will die on that hill; metaphorically of course. :)
Still disagree with putting foreign dive guides into 1 bucket - the cruise director on Blue Manta was French and was an awesome guide. Of course, he had been in Indonesia and diving for many years - but still a foreigner. He was better than the Indonesian guide my group had for part of our trip.

Not that the local guide was bad - but he tended to stay deeper (60-70 feet) for too long and seemed to just want to point out stuff you needed a magnifying glass to see. He persisted even after we spoke to him about it so we just started heading up shallower (30-50 feet) on our own and let him follow us up. We saw much more life (big and small) and far more corals a bit shallower. He eventually got the message!

I’ll take a foreign guide who has lots of experience in the area over a local one that does not/is new any day - imho, it’s the experience and familiarity/intimate knowledge of the sites that matters, not where the guide is from.
 
Like I said, 99.9% of the time, you want a local guide. Am I surprised the director of one of the biggest/most successful/most popular liveaboards in Indonesia is a solid guide? Of course not. I've been out with Simon from Blue Marlin...he kinda knows his stuff- haha. The few like them are exceptions to the rule.

99 times out of 100, any liveaboard or land-based company putting their cruise directors/resort managers in the water as guides does not get it.
 
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