On rinsing regulators - split from Hey SCUBA gear heads - best regulator for under $1,000 = ?

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I rinse my regs with a low pressure shower hose for a few seconds after a day of diving, then do nothing else. I service them every seven or eight years if the IP begins to drop. If it hasn't, I wait another couple of years. I've never had a problem with any regulator I've owned.
 
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In the case I spoke to in my post...
Great, I'll let him know...But before I do and for clarification, you are saying that using this method with an "Atomic" could be detrimental because part of them is not fully closed off when not attached to a cylinder. How is the "Atomic" second stage different than the one Alec is using for the demonstration in the video?
 
Great, I'll let him know...But before I do and for clarification, you are saying that using this method with an "Atomic" could be detrimental because part of them is not fully closed off when not attached to a cylinder. How is the "Atomic" second stage different than the one Alec is using for the demonstration in the video?
I get the sense that you think I'm somehow trying to disrepect/discount Alec as I'm a newbie with a slightly different opinion on the topic? Well, I'm not and have much respect for him - I've learned a lot from watching his videos. He has a depth of knowledge on all things scuba that I'll never attain and is a phenomenal resource for divers!

I'm also honestly not sure if you are just being sarcastic/discounting my opinion in your responses to me or if you are genuinely looking for an answer - I'm sensing the former, but I'll bite anyhow.

The reason was explained in post #16 in this thread. Further, what I posted is backed up by Atomic Aquatics themselves - read the Post Dive Care section on page 28-29:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ggrMAE&usg=AFQjCNEMweK3KJwaDWDRNiRChvZFxorVPA

Here is what they say in case you don't want to go to the link for the manual:

"Avoid soaking the regulator unpressurized, as water may enter the
second stage and first stage mechanism.
If the second stage is purged when it
is rinsed or soaked, it is a good idea to re-connect the regulator to a tank and blow out
any water that may have entered the first or second stage."
 
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So is Alec correct or is Atomic correct? Please do go on....
I would tend to listen to the manufacturer as they know their own regulators better than anyone else. Atomic regulators have a unique design and one which is not shared by the regulator Alec was using in the video (or any other reg as far as I know).

If you can't accept Atomic's own printed instructions/limitations on regulator soaking, then I'm not sure what else I can provide. Hower, given the tone of your posts, I also really have no desire to engage in any further dialogue with you as I believe my original assessment on your motivation is correct...
 
What is this unique design that Atomic regulators have that differentiates it from the one in the videos?
 
What is this unique design that Atomic regulators have that differentiates it from the one in the videos?
Since you appear to have not read anything I've posted previously on this, I'll share one last, parting tidbit: the unique design feature is the pressure-energized, seat saving orifice in the second stage. It means that the unpressurized Atomic 2nd stage is not fully closed - so soaking one would be similar to soaking a non-Atomic reg with it's purge button partially depressed the whole time.
 
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I have some Aqualung sets which have teh Auto Closure Device (ADC) that closes the 1st stage when you remove it from a cylinder. My regs get fully immersed overnight in my rinse bucket after diving (most weekends) and no damage. My repair centre would tell me at service time if there was any damage.

Regarding discoloration of the threads on a Din set. all mine have done so. any coating as new will wear with the constant screwing on an off. as long as teh Din screws in easily and the sealing face is clean then you should have no issues.

People do suggest you can clean the threads with vinegar, but you'd need to ensure none goes' in the 1st stage. I've never tried it, so can't recommend it.

I have a Legend LX with the ACD as well and it is a diaphragm reg. I have been dunking my regs unpressurized to soak (entirely) while being careful not to touch the purge for the past year. I had an annual inspection and it was fine.........but this thread is still making me second guess how I'm doing it.

Should I really just be dunking the first stage (lower) and then leaving the 2nd stage out of the water (higher) and then doing the 2nd stages in the water (lower) with the first stage out of the water (higher)?

I could always drag my tank up to my bathtub and keep it pressurized......it's just a hassle.

Thanks.
 
I have a Legend LX with the ACD as well and it is a diaphragm reg. I have been dunking my regs unpressurized to soak (entirely) while being careful not to touch the purge for the past year. I had an annual inspection and it was fine.........but this thread is still making me second guess how I'm doing it.

Should I really just be dunking the first stage (lower) and then leaving the 2nd stage out of the water (higher) and then doing the 2nd stages in the water (lower) with the first stage out of the water (higher)?

I could always drag my tank up to my bathtub and keep it pressurized......it's just a hassle.

Thanks.
With the ACD no water is going to get into the 1st stage. Mine get literally dropped into a large rubber maid wheeled bin (I have 1 for wetsuits etc and another for the rest of the gear

Watch the video further up the thread - even if you pressed the purge you have air in the hose and water isn't going to force all that air out to flood your first stage.

If you feel the need - then after washing take your regs to your cylinder and pressurise the system and blow air through.

Even if water got in corrosion isn't going to happen instantly. The only way 1st stages get wrecked is if they get submerged without a cap on them allowing water directly into them that way.

With A clamps them people over tighten the rubber cap distorting it thus causing it not to seal and let water in. With a DIN the cap creates a tight seal. With ACD you are more secure still.
 
With the ACD no water is going to get into the 1st stage. Mine get literally dropped into a large rubber maid wheeled bin (I have 1 for wetsuits etc and another for the rest of the gear

Watch the video further up the thread - even if you pressed the purge you have air in the hose and water isn't going to force all that air out to flood your first stage.

If you feel the need - then after washing take your regs to your cylinder and pressurise the system and blow air through.

Even if water got in corrosion isn't going to happen instantly. The only way 1st stages get wrecked is if they get submerged without a cap on them allowing water directly into them that way.

With A clamps them people over tighten the rubber cap distorting it thus causing it not to seal and let water in. With a DIN the cap creates a tight seal. With ACD you are more secure still.

Thanks! I do like the idea of the ACD. It is some extra peace of mind.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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