On rinsing regulators - split from Hey SCUBA gear heads - best regulator for under $1,000 = ?

[KeithG]

Seems that in true SB fashion this thread has morphed into "how to soak your reg" thread. So here goes...

When land based I soak my $150 used regs (see what I did there, no need to spend $1000) after every dive. If I think the rinse tank is a little manky I will not hesitate to pull the plug, drain it and refill. The dive ops we use are cool with this (less work for them). This is all unpressurized. On LOBs our regs never get dry and are hosed down with fresh water a couple times a day by the crew.

Once home they soak in the bathtub unpressurized for a few days. 28 years old (the regs, not me), never an issue with water penetration.

 

[Joneill]

Once home they soak in the bathtub unpressurized for a few days. 28 years old (the regs, not me), never an issue with water penetration.

Try that approach with an Atomic reg and tell us how you make out...

 

[KeithG]

Try that approach with an Atomic reg and tell us how you make out...

You can't do that with Atomics? They must be of sub standard quality then...

I am curious. Why can't you soak Atomics? All Atomics? Or just some models?

 

[runsongas]

the seat saver means you can potentially back water up the hose from the second stage as they aren't completely shut when not pressurized.

 

[snowdog61]

People on scubaboard seem to make a much bigger deal of rinsing regulators than I've ever done or even seen someone do on a boat. Of course SB seems to have lots of folks who don't ever take regs in for service so maybe that's the reason.

I'm not saying I don't rinse my regs, but it's definitely a precise and delicate procedure with a checklist or anything like that. So far it's worked for me. I do take my regs for service ever year as the manufacturer recommends.

And the yearly service is likely why you aren't having issues - they are removing any corrosion products that may have started due to inadequate rinsing. I used to not be very diligent about rinsing my gear UNTIL I started doing my own servicing. And that rebuild schedule is now being dictated by the reg behavior (IP, tuning, HP filter condx, etc) rather than by some ludicrous calendar date for warranty purposes. Mine easily go 2 yrs now and I expect longer. Trips are an issue since I can't normally get the extended soak I desire but a quick rinse between dives and a long soak once home should suffice. One real advantage of buying new is that the plating isn't going to be compromised so corrosion shouldn't have any foothold even with a marginal rinse. Assuming of course you are not dunking with the cap off or otherwise blowing salty water into it (or soaking a seat saver design un-pressurized and improperly).

 

[Joneill]

You can't do that with Atomics? They must be of sub standard quality then...

I am curious. Why can't you soak Atomics? All Atomics? Or just some models?

You can soak them - but only if they are pressurized.

It's all Atomic regulators and it's because of their Seat Saving Dynamic Orifice design which:

"prolongs the life of the low-pressure poppet seat to maintain the crisp "like new" factory tuning and prevent the second stage from leaking between servicing. This exclusive Atomic patented design allows the seat and orifice to make contact only when the regulator is pressurized. When not in use, the orifice automatically retracts away from the seat to prevent damage during storage."

So if you soak unpressurized, water can move through the second stages, down the hoses and into the first stage.

 

[Couv]

ANY regulator can and should be soaked before putting it away for any length of time longer than a day. To soak it unpressurized, simply put enough water in a bucket and place a broom handle or something similar over the top. Drape the first stage on one side and the second stage(s) over the other. ANY reg can be soaked this way even Atomics with a seat saver device and Sub-Atomics ;-) without a seat saver, because water will not creep up the hose into the first stage. Then blow the second stage dry.

If you're diving every day, a simple rinse or dunk is all that's necessary as salt crystals will not have time to form.

 

[Joneill]

ANY regulator can and should be soaked before putting it away for any length of time longer than a day. To soak it unpressurized, simply put enough water in a bucket and place a broom handle or something similar over the top. Drape the first stage on one side and the second stage(s) over the other. ANY reg can be soaked this way even Atomics with a seat saver device and Sub-Atomics ;-) without a seat saver, because water will not creep up the hose into the first stage.

That is true - I was talking about how I've seen many divers soak their regs by just dumping the whole reg set in the rinse tank. I'm also not sure how well the dust cap truly seals when submerged and, since I only soak my regs at home, it's actually easier to just attach to a 6 cu. ft. tank and drop in the tub.

 

[Couv]

That is true - I was talking about how I've seen many divers soak their regs by just dumping the whole reg set in the rinse tank.

That is how I soak my regulators after returning from a trip-they don't have a seat saver.

I'm also not sure how well the dust cap truly seals when submerged

A good solid cap or the old fashion cone shaped caps with an o-ring are very secure. The new hollow caps are a joke as they hold water.

 

[Schwob]

Last year, after 2 successive weeks on an LOB, I noticed a discoloration on the DIN threads of our first stages, which were attached to tank valves the entire time.
The engaged part of the thread discolored.

Ever since I wonder how to not have worse happen in the future.

Any thoughts?