Oceanic Datamax II

[jace]

AWESOME Macca!!!, thanx for the info. Tried what you said and it worked perfectly.

 

[MacLachlan]

Hi Jace,
I'm glad that I was able to help. It appears that you check this forum often. I need some oceanic omega and some tekna parts. Do you know of anyone that can help?

 

[jace]

I'd actually given up hope of ever finding a fix for the Datamax until Scubaboard sent through your message. As for the spares I guess eBay is always a good source or post another message on here. Thanx again for the tip.

 

[Couv]

I have a Datamax 2 that I just installed a battery in and got the 8's as well. I emailed Oceanic, no response. So I figured what the heck, using a small piece of wire I momentarily touched one end to the plus (top) side of the battery, and the other to the Y or wishbone shaped piece of brass. Screen cleared. When tested worked as it should.
MacLachlan

Bump to update

I just opened my Data Max. It did need a bit a persuasion. Placing the bottom section into very hot water expanded the lower section enough to allow me to open it with two strap wrenches. Just as said, a couple of 357 batteries did the trick. After cleaning the contacts (they actually showed no sign of corrosion) I put a dab of dielectric grease (Tribolube 71) on the contact points and a film on the side of the diaphragm not exposed to water. A small push on the depth gauge lever got the the timer started. I closed it up and put it in a container of water overnight weighted down to water tight check it. All is ok at this point; however I have not made a dive with it yet.

I got this instrument thrown in with other gear, so it was pretty much free because it was described as NOT WORKING. Thanks to you guys that is no longer the case.

Thank you,

couv

 

[Leslie Sapp]

I'm having problems viewing the pictures in post #4. Are they still there? I'm changing the batteries in a Datamax II and think these pics might help.

 

[rajohn]

I know this is sort of an old thread but I just found it using the search feature. I purchased a used regulator set that came with Oceanic guages. The depth guage was the DataMax II. The led portion for bottom time did not work. I had my LDS check out the regulators before using them and asked him about the DataMax. He said they are unserviceable and to just either do without it or get a new computer (which he was more than willing to sell me). To make a long story short I figured I had nothing to lose so found this thread and followed the instructions. It was simple. I did get the 8888s but the above mentioned trick fixed that. Now if it doesn't leak when I again get to use it all will be well. As simple as it was to change the batteries, I don't see why the LDSs won't do this for us. I guess I should be glad he didn't as it would have been more expensive than it is worth to have a professional do it. But boy, was it ever simple once you know how. As a side note, the batteries now at Radio Shack are over $5.00 each so it's not real, real cheap anymore.
Thanks guys.

 

[AbyssalPlains]

You didn't state how much your friend wanted for the computer.
You can contact Oceanic directly and they will do a check and calibration for you for about $100 to $125.

Dennis

Umm, yeah, because 125 bucks PLUS the actual sale price is a smokin' deal for a 10-year-old dive computer...

 

[Couv]

…it's been over a year now since I repaired my Data Max II depth gauge and bottom timer. I actually have two that required this battery change. One is still working very well, the other seems to have developed a problem with the LCD. The display activates as it should; however, not all of the segments of the LCD are showing up, so getting an accurate reading is almost impossible. Is there a fix to this or is there a way to replace the LCD itself?

Thanks,

Couv

 

[MacLachlan]

…it's been over a year now since I repaired my Data Max II depth gauge and bottom timer. I actually have two that required this battery change. One is still working very well, the other seems to have developed a problem with the LCD. The display activates as it should; however, not all of the segments of the LCD are showing up, so getting an accurate reading is almost impossible. Is there a fix to this or is there a way to replace the LCD itself?

Thanks,

Couv

You may be able to take it apart and clean it. The LCD is connected to the board by a thin strip of contacts. If all surfaces are cleaned with alcohol it may work. If the LCD has gone black---it's done.

 

[Couv]

Thanks Mac,

Glad to see you are still around. When I have a bit of time I'll open the instument back up. By the way, would you happen to know if LCDs are replaceable....e.g. can they be purchased from an electonics supplier like Radio Shack?

c